I would like to understand what I need to do to promote the trunk to grow thicker and how to promote foliage growth in the canopy. You know the plant's vitality level is on the poor side or you wouldn't be asking after it, and that's why the canopy is sparse and the trunk thin. Unless it has a pest problem, all it really needs is some modifications of the cultural influences (light, temp, soil/ air/ water relations, fertility, air movement, so the influences are as close as possible to the plant's sweet spot. The best thing you could do for the plant is move it outdoors as soon as or whenever temperatures allow. Nights reliably above 55* for full time and any time temps are above 60-65*. I'm not sure what type of medium it's in, but it should drain freely and the medium should hold very little excess water. Excess water is water that fills the pores between soil particles toward the bottom of the pot, which limits the roots' oxygen supply and sets the stage for fungal root infections. The pot it's in now will tip easily, so I would opt for a larger pot and use some bricks in the bottom as ballast, which will also reduce the amount of excess water the medium can/will hold. I would plan a repot as soon as the timing is appropriate, during which I would correct all root issues and reestablish the plant in a high quality grow medium to replace the medium it's in now. At the same time you repot, I would prune the top 1/3 - 1/2 of the canopy back hard, cutting the visually heavy (thick) branches at the top back severely and not doing much with the bottom 1/2 - 2/3 of the tree in terms of pruning until later in the summer when the tree has recovered from the root work. Fertilizing regularly with a quality soluble synthetic fertilizer like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is the best bet. That's what I use and you won't likely find better for the 95% plus of your containerized plants which will respond to it enthusiastically. That's a rough outline. Let me know if you want more specific info in select areas or have questions; or, if you want to see images of some of the work I do on my own figs. Plants that grow with little enthusiasm are very close to the break-even point in terms of the amount of energy (food) they create from the sun's energy as opposed to the amount of energy consumed during respiration. To accomplish your goals, your focus should be on making it easier for the plant to deal with the cultural hand you're dealing. Since the plant can't change it's needs, it's up to the grower to make the adjustments. If a grower was given a grade, the whole of his/her efforts on which (s)he would be judged, would be no more than the effectiveness with which limiting factors are ferreted out and the degree to which they're mollified. That's the view from here, YMMV. Al

Hi Jajada, your pictures show FMV, classic case is mottled leaves that are raised like bubbles, plant leaves in what appears to be a lack of chlorophyll, badly deformed looking leaves,or tiny darker green spots observed with a light from under leaf . You can click the link i posted last season. I showed FMV mild case and more severe case in a few of my plants. I see your in CA and the FMV can be transmitted thru some bugs and thru pruning shears also from one plant to another. FMV is a curable virus in plants but much much to costly for the average gardener, fig plants can be easily reinfected by certain bugs that will transmit it . Many fig plants can deal with it as they get larger a few such as ischia black are most affected and stunted by it as it can affect the plants cells from multiplying therfore stunting it. Its been my experience that once a plant has it its there for good although it may seem gone its there and can show itself anytime. FMV may not show in all limbs of a plant as its a very slow moving virus, its slow enough that in a lab new emerging shoots are cut and then sterilized and use of a microscope and scalpel to the extract the meristem by peeling back the outer shell consisiting of many tiny leaves within it eventually coming to the meristem which is an opague color very small and hard to see and propagate useing certain types of medium are used in a complete sterile setting. Its very costly to do as stated properly but that part of the plant has the highest probability of not yet being infected and contains all whats needed to start a new plant. FmV is in tobacco and potato crops called by different intials but basically is the same type of virus. How they deal with it im not sure as i have only read about fig plants mostly. Martin Here is a link that might be useful: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=3316723&highlight=mosaic

Looks like root suckers from a flowering pear (?). Sometimes happens if a tree is grafted and the root is a different type (and more aggressive) than the top. Also can happen if a tree has been cut down and the remaining roots try to sucker up. Mow, mow, mow. If the tree from which they come is healthy and you spray the root suckers with, say, dandelion killer - you might kill or damage the tree. If the tree has been removed you can try that herbicide. hortster

Hi Tanya, Sorry about the hens and chickens thing. You can always bring foot long fig tip cuttings for trade.. Keep them in water.. I am sure they are welcome ( I like some) .. I can bring some basil ( cinnamon and Thai ) seeds. Do you have messaging enabled? You need to go your account settings to enable it... Mine is enabled for anyone to message me.. You can msg and leave me your email address and I will email back to you. See you at the swap.. I am the Indian girl. I mainly grow vegetables