Hi Wishful,
Go to page 3 of this forum and find a topic called:
Indoor Phal Treatment, posted by dallasgarden. It has 23 responses and lots of the kind of information you are looking for. I hope some of it will be just right to help you with your Phal.

Sc

Hi wishful_green_thumb. I haven't had many phals but I'll attempt a response. If you're phal is growing roots profusely outside the pot, then the conditions are probably just right. I'd only worry about re-potting when the medium starts breaking down and maybe you can give those wandering roots a weak nutrient spray from time to time.

As for air circulation, my plants seem to like it. I installed an overhead fan in the growing area. But I think it is more to keep air going down into the medium to keep the roots aerated (unless it has some physiological roll increasing CO2 uptake, but not sure about that).

Also - I have read that some people initiate flower spikes in phals by exposing them to low temperatures for a few weeks. They just set them outside in the fall at night and once they see the beginnings of a spike, they keep them inside. I've never tried that though.

Good luck!

Lack of flowers, especially when all other factors are going well, is almost always a light issue. Light is what drives plant metabolism and gives them the energy to grow or bloom or whatever.

Shoot for mid green leaves.

-Cj

Greetings: My first suggestion is to get some sort of recording thermometer to place near the plant so you know the real high and low temperatures during a 24-hour period. You can find relatively inexpensive digital ones I believe. Though your themostat is set at 65, might it not get warmer than that at mid day? I know our thermostat in the hall does not record the temperature of my warmer living room on the south side of the house. Some of those thermometers will also record humidity which is helpful.

In my experience, a drop in temperature of 10 to 15 degrees from day to night helped in initiating spikes in my phalaenopsis. The lowest temperature my plants were exposed to was about 58 degrees, which is pushing it in some books. Never had a problem including my warmth-loving summer bloomers. I had a temp drop between day and night inside all the time, probably because I grew under fluorescent lights which added some warmth to the grow area. I didn't have to worry about getting plants outside for that drop.

Consider moving your plant closer to the window, and adding supplemental light for the winter. Northern winter days (indoors as well) are much shorter than those in the tropics where species phalaenopsis normally grow (outdoors). You can get a light fixture with a compact fluorescent bulb to spot on the plant. Though I didn't mention this first - Light is the most important thing in my experience for growing and blooming orchids.

I would not be concerned about getting a fan for air circulation in your dry conditions. The need for circulation increases with humidity. Just don't mist the plant, or allow and water to sit in the crown and you should be fine.

Best of luck!

Jeanne

When growers want to make their phals bloom they keep the temps cooler in the greenhouse, so your temps may be okay. They do say that the night temps should be cooler than the day temps, but perhaps visa versa might work, too, as long as the plants experience a temp drop.

The light, however, sounds too weak. If you can get your plant right near the window it may be better. East window light, which is morning light and quite wonderful, especially outdoors, is not as strong as a southeast or south window. In a south window you can keep the plant a couple of feet back as the sun is much stronger. So in an east window the plant will need all the light it can get, especially during the short winter days.

Hi, again, Wishful,
Just a clarification, first ~ Sending you off to read another thread of the Orchid forum was not intended as a "brush-off." I thought it would be the quickest way for you to get some good information on the culture of your Phal.

The following are based on some things I have learned about my Phals and are personal opinion, not edicts handed down from any oracle of orchid culture.

It is a very good sign that you have had your Phal for a year and a half, and that it has grown several good new leaves. You are keeping its pot out of water and it apparently likes terracotta (which helps to provide good even drying between waterings).

As Orchid126 suggests, your Phal should benefit from being closer to your east window--much closer. It needs bright, indirect sunlight. Also, if it were Close to the window in your climate it would get that night time temperature drop that it needs to initiate a flower spike.

To deflect heat coming directly up from the heating vent, you could get (or rig) a heat deflector for the vent--or even put the plant on a larger plant tray placed on a plant rack (or shelf) right at the window.

I live in a Very dry place, do not use a humidifier, and rarely mist my Phals (except for their aerial roots, and those only occasionally). They have never shown signs of needing additional humidity. Watering on time seems to provide all the moisture they need.

Speaking of aerial roots, I don't worry about those, either. Some Phals are very sedate (root-wise); others seem to like to kick up their "heels." Heck; let 'em express themselves.

Your air circulation sounds fine, and, close to the window, convection currents will only increase.

If anything, your temperatures are a bit on the warm side. In winter, our inside daytime temps are between 68 and 75. Night temps next to the glass doors where my Phals are can dip to around 60 degrees--or a few degrees cooler. As soon as this starts, they spike. They seem to love it cool at night.

Your watering sounds fine, judging from the survival and growth of your Phal. Of course, we all want to water perfectly, but it is better to underwater than to overwater. A lot of new growers get nervous way before 7 or 9 days go by. Since conditions can change with the seasons, check with a rounded skewer, Qtip, or your finger (my preferred--3" or knuckle deep). If it is cool to your lip or finger tip, it still has moisture. (If you make a hole in the medium, gently close it over.)

Ok; I've said enough. Do check out that other thread and give the forum some feedback to let us know when your Phal Spikes!

Sc