Reality Check Time There are areas of the country where roses did not tend to be planted in cemetaries. Iris, yes, peonies, yes, daffodils, yes, arborvitae in vast quantities, but not roses. In one week in Arizona, not even particularly looking for either cemetaries or roses, we saw more cemetary roses than I've ever seen in this part of the country. The closest anybody seems to be to an explanation is that roses in cemetaries are connected to a Catholic cultural heritage, which doesn't really arrive in the northeast until the late 19th, early 20th century. My mother's family cemetary plot in western Pennsylvania looks like something from an Edward Gorey drawing (as did my grandparent's house) Which brings up something else to keep in mind. The major enemy of neglected roses in the eastern part of the country isn't drought but trees. Many older cemetaries here are heavily shaded. In the really old cemetaries - the 17th century ones - it's not uncommon to have 200 year old trees growing in the middle of the headstones. So you have the conumdrum that roses can only exist around people, but people can decide to get rid of them.

Leave a lot of space, Elegans type hostas can have a diameter over 2.5 meters when mature.....It's hard to picture now, but this type of Hosta can Get GIANT..... A few tips for growing Giant Hostas. (Everybody should have at least 1 in their garden if they space) 1. Good soil, amend planting area with peat moss and plenty of sheep manure (much better than cow manure) Hostas love good drainage. They will grow in heavy clay type soils but growth is much, much slower (What might take 3-4 years in good well drained humus may take 10 years in clay based soils) 2. Avoid competition with tree roots (esp. Maples, Norway maples being the worst) The tree will always win in completion for water and nutrients. Generally (there are always exceptions ) Hostas grown directly under trees will stay smallish, even the giant varieties. 3. Keep it well watered Hostas (esp the "elegans" types) are thirsty monsters lots of water equals big plant. Again hostas can survive in dry conditions but this will severly stunt growth. Less frequent deep waterings are much better than frequent light waterings. for the first few weeks after planting keep it from drying out at all. Fertalization is not really important for hostas I do one good dose first week of May and that's it for the year 4. Plant shallow. Hostas don't want to be buried deep in the ground. The crown of the plant should be just a few mm under the soil. Deep planting will severely stunt the plant, and lead to crown rot in the spring. 5. Plant in an area where it is not getting blasted by sun all afternoon, Morning sun is best (full sun 'till 11:00 and dappled shade after that is best) Hostas again will survive in full sun (most of them) Full sun will lead to smaller , more densely packed leaves. You won't get the awesome "dinner plate" or larger leaves in full sun. 6. Leave it alone.... Once your Montreal Blue Icestorm (cool plant btw) is situated, don't move it, Resist the urge to split it. As soon as you split a hosta, and damage the "root plate"(which is the tissue that connects all the "eyes) The plant can start to revert back to a juvenile form, and you may have to wait years to get the plant to an adult again. 7. Patience Even if you can provide all the above mentioned conditions for your plant (and it will still get BIG even if your conditions are not perfect) It will take time. 5-7 years to reach maturity. although in 2-3 years it will be impressive. Hope this Helps James

Bump. The Prizer website now lists a bunch of retail outlets in Ontario, including Tasco. So, I called the Dufferin St. store (Toronto) and the salesman had never heard of them. He talked to a colleague, who had also never heard of them. Not a good sign on a number of levels. But, they're in the system there. He told me a 30" RNB would retail at @ $4900. Which is about $400 more than Grand Chef quoted me several months ago when the dollar was lower/ exchange rate was higher. (Note - from memory, but I think it was in the 42 - 44 range. Mightv'e been the RNP though, but I don't think so). Sigh. And Tasco doesn't have one in their store. Sigh. They told me they could order one for me, but the sales guy didn't know when, if ever, they might have one on display. Sigh. I, like some others, am hesitant at plunking down that kind of $$$ sight unseen. And, the difference in price between th US and here is also a sticking point. The list price in the states is $4320. With exchange, that comes out to about $4700 Canuck. Add a couple hundred for customs hassles, shipping etc and 4900 doesn't sound unreasonable. Except that Universal has them for $3500 US, and Select for 38-something. In other words, 5 - 8 hundred less than list. If I know that someone is capable of selling them for $800 less than list and still (presumably) make a profit, I'll feel I'm being played for a fool to be charged list plus some change for border issues. I'd like to buy a Bluestar. I really would. But ... Has anyone else found any of the stores listed as dealers of Bluestars in Ontario on Prizer's website that actually have one? Does anyone know if Grand Chef can still sell in Ontario? Thanks!

Image by: Wendy Richardson Adult Red Lily Leaf Beetle ORIGIN: The red lily leaf beetle (Lilioceris lilii) is an insect native to Europe and Asia which rapidly spread through New England from Eastern Massachusetts and which has been also been found in Northern New York State. The original infestation in New England was detected in 1992 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, although the beetle has been active in the Montreal, Canada, area since 1945. There are recent reports that the beetle has been seen in Alberta, Canada, since about 2005. DAMAGE: If uncontrolled, the beetle will completely defoliate and ultimately kill all true lilies (Lilium species, such as Asiatic, Oriental, Easter, Tiger and Turk's Cap lilies). It will also feed on Fritillaria species, and many other plants, although the primary targets are Lilium and Fritillaria species. DESCRIPTION: The adult beetle is bright scarlet red, with black legs, head, antennae and undersurface. It is 1/4" to 3/8" long and is a strong flyer. The beetle reportedly will squeak if squeezed gently (however, few gardeners are willing to be gentle to this beetle). The adult lays reddish-orange eggs which hatch into particularly unpleasant larvae, which look like 3/8" long slugs; colored orange, brown, yellow or green with black heads. The larvae cover themselves with their own excrement (known as a fecal shield) which apparently repels predators, including gardeners who are generally very reluctant to handle the larvae. The larvae eventually become fluorescent orange pupae. LIFE CYCLE: The adult beetle overwinters in the soil or plant debris and emerges in early spring looking for food and a mate. After mating, the female lays eggs in lines on the underside of Lilium or Fritillaria leaves. Some damage is done by the adults at this time, but the major damage comes when the eggs hatch into larvae in 7-10 days. The larvae voraciously consume all leaves within reach and may then start on flower buds. This continues for 2 to 3 weeks, when the larvae then drop into the soil and begin to pupate. In another 2 to 3 weeks the adult beetles emerge to start eating again. This process occurs from early spring to mid-summer. Reportedly the beetles won't mate and lay eggs until the next spring. FIRST REPORTED SPRING SIGHTINGS: 2003 - April 21 in Massachusetts. 2004 - April 18 in Massachusetts. 2005 - April 9 in Massachusetts and also in south coastal Maine. 2006 - April 9 in Massachusetts. 2007 - April 19 or 20 in Malden, MA, reported by michaelb_maz6. 2007 - April 22 in Amherst, MA, reported by pattioh. 2007 - April 24 in Haverhill, MA, reported by chazparas. 2008 - April 15 in Billerica/Lowell, MA area, reported by a neighbor of littleonefb. 2008 - April 17 in Burlington, MA (heavy infestation) reported by a friend of littleonefb. 2008 - April 17 or 18 in Malden, MA, reported by michaelb_maz6. 2008 - April 19 in North Waltham, MA, reported by weedsmakemecrazy. 2008 - April 21 in Lexington, MA, reported by idabean. 2008 - April 21 in Shrewsbury, MA, reported by sunshineboy. 2008 - April 23 in CT Zone 5-6, reported by evonnestoryteller. 2008 - May 5 in Hollis, NH (southern NH) reported by wrichard. 2009 - April 15 in Lexington, MA, reported by Idabean. 2009 - April 18 in CT Zone 5-6, reported by evonnestoryteller. 2009 - April 30 in CT Zone 6, reported by diggerdee. 2009 - May 5 in Rochester, NY, reported by jgpr (first sighting there). 2009 - May 17 in Boston (proper), MA, reported by extragalactic. 2010 - April 1 (more or less) in CT Zone 6, reported by diggerdee. 2010 - April 3 in MA Zone 6 (on fritillaria), reported by marie of roumania. 2010 - April 4 in Boston, MA Zone 6b, reported by extragalactic. 2010 - April 7 in North Waltham, MA, reported by weesdmakemecrazy. 2010 - April 8 on the RI coast Zone 6, reported by tulipscarolan. 2010 - April 13 in Zone 5a (on fritillaria), reported by idabean. 2011 - April 21 at Rt 128 and the Pike, MA Zone 5, reported by pixie_lou. 2011 - April 22 in CT Zone 6, reported by lepages. 2011 - April 24 in MA Zone 6 (on lily), reported by marie of roumania. 2011 - April 25 in CT Zone 6, reported by diggerdee. 2011 - April 28 in Zone 5a (on lily and fritillaria), reported by idabean. 2011 - April 29 in CT Zone 5-6, reported by evonnestoryteller. 2011 - May 3 in Plymouth, MA Zone 6b, reported by claire. 2011 - May 21 in Webster, NY, which is a Northeastern suburb of Rochester, NY Zone 6, reported by Singzjazz. 2011 - June 22 in East Haven, CT Zone 6, reported by jenhubb. 2012 - April 3, approximately, in CT Zone 6, reported by diggerdee. 2012 - April 8, approximately, in CT Zone 6 (major infestation), reported by casey1. 2012 - April 16, approximately, in MA Zone 5, in metrowest - near 128 and the pike, reported by pixie_lou. 2012 - April 17 in Zone 5a (on stem of an Asiatic lily), reported by idabean. 2012 - April 30 in MA Zone 5b, reported by steve_mass. 2012 - May 1 in Ansonia, CT Zone 6, reported by javaandjazz. 2012 - May 6 north of Calgary, AB, Canada zone 3, second year in a row, reported by tomlvi. 2012 - June 3 in West Haven, CT Zone 6b, reported by molie. 2013 - April 17 in CT Zone 6, reported by casey1. 2013 - April 17 in CT Zone 6, reported by diggerdee. 2013 - April 17 or earlier in RI Zone 6, reported by cheleinri. 2013 - April 18 in MA Zone 6a, reported by prairiemoon2. 2013 - April 19 in Narragansett, RI, reported by elaine_2008. 2014 - ~ April 22 at Rt 128 and the Pike, MA Zone 5, reported by pixie_lou. 2014 - April 26 in CT Zone 6, reported by casey1. 2014 - around May 5 in MA, Zone 6a, reported by prairiemoon2. 2014 - May 12 in Plymouth, MA Zone 6b, reported by claire. 2014 - May 12 in Central CT, Zone 6, reported by corunum. 2014 - May 13 on CT coast, Zone 6, reported by mjc_molie. 2014 - June 12 in Troy, NY Zone 5, established infestation reported by debi1315. 2014 - June 15 in New Haven, CT Zone 6, reported by joe_267. LAST REPORTED FALL SIGHTINGS: 2003 - mid October on the coast of New Hampshire and Massachusetts BIOLOGICAL CONTROL: There are no known natural predators in this country, although the beetle is well under control in Europe, where at least six parasitoids attack it. Researchers at the University of Rhode Island are actively engaged in releasing parasitic wasps in this country and seem to be confident that biological control can eventually be established here as well. COMPANION PLANTING An interesting observation was made by gardencommando concerning a possible deterrent effect of Chelone on the beetle. "this summer we were totally infested with the red Lily Beetle. After reading up on the subject, I used the simple drowning them idea, but modified the mix a little - amonia with dish soap. Although I stalked and killed hundreds of the horrid things, I suffered heavy damage to all the lilies except 1. The one an only difference that I could find is: the completely undamaged lily has a Turtle head planted on each side of it. I checked on the toxity of Chelone and although it seems to not be edible it says nothing about repelling pests. The untouched lily was planted less than five feet away from ones that were attacked. The turtle heads are roughly 1 foot away from the Lily. I just thought it might be of interest to everyone, and might possibly work out to be a good companion plant." nandina commented: "Very interesting observation! Time to do some experimenting/testing. The obvious first experiment is to interplant Chelone closely with lilies. Everyone in the range of lily beetles certainly can easily experiment with this one as it sprouts easily from seed." ACTIVE CONTROL: First of all, if you're in an infested area, avoid sending any lilies or other plants to anyone else, and carefully inspect any plants you receive. Hand-picking should be the first level of control if possible. Constant vigilance and quick removal and disposal of beetles, eggs and larvae can control an infestation on a small number of plants. Make sure the critters are actually dead! If you squash them, don't leave the squashee in the garden. Some gardeners drop them into a can of water with vegetable oil on the top. If you suspect the beetles may be lurking around your lilies but you don't see any, carefully dig in the top half inch of the soil - no deeper! They hide just under the surface, so be ready to get them when they pop out. Roxanna reports the following tip: "I recently read somewhere what seems to be a good tip, and pass it along to you in case you want to include it in your FAQ info: the adults are easily spooked when you try to pick them by hand, and if you "miss" them, they tend to drop to the ground where THEY LAND UPSIDE DOWN, and since their tummies are black, they effectively vanish. The suggestion was to place a light-colored cloth under the plant before you hand-pick in order to be able to see the nasty little things if they fall." If this isn't feasible, then treatment with Neem is the next choice. Neem will repel beetles and kill young larvae, but must be applied every 5 to 7 days after the eggs hatch. Merit (imidacloprid) is a systemic insecticide which may work if applied to the soil in early spring. Many New England gardeners are also reporting good results from the use of products containing imidacloprid when applied later in the season. Bayer manufactures several products containing systemic insecticides, both in spray and in granular form. The Bayer Rose and Flower Spray has provided excellent control for many gardeners, without serious toxicity issues. However, it's important to follow the label directions to prevent destruction of bees and other beneficial insects while the spray is drying. The general principle is to apply the product when beneficial insects are not around, and to let it dry. This is probably a good idea with any insecticide since they are not specifically targeted to one insect species. Other chemicals of relatively low toxicity include the following: *10% household ammonia, applied to the newly emerging lily sprouts and surrounding soil (reported by northerner on of Ontario, Canada). *Pyrethroid insecticides (Permethrin is one) kill adult beetles (reported by the UMass Extension). *Spinosad insecticides kill larvae (reported by the UMass Extension). .................................................................................................................................. More powerful chemical insecticides can be used, but are inherently dangerous to humans and to beneficial insects and should be used with extreme caution. Carbaryl (Sevin) and malathion are effective on both the adult beetles and the larvae. There's also been one recent report in New England that Bantam chickens love to eat the beetles! Unfortunately, they don't seem to consider the disgusting larvae to be food, but eating the adults should make a dent in the population.