Water it. When Ang roots are actively growing, they're seeking water, so water them. Keep the media fairly moist all the time with a bit of drying out between drenchings. The more actively growing roots there are, the more you should water (or the less drying you should allow). Conversely, if the root tips are covered with velamen, as they just were, you should water much less often. The higher you can keep the overall humidity, the less often you'll need to water, especially when the roots are resting. There is info all over the net that says leonis can take so much drying that the leaves will start to shrivel. So far I haven't had the guts to push it that far...and maybe that's why mine hasn't bloomed. Even during the mostly rain-free dry seasons in Africa and Madagascar and the nearby islands, the humidity is still high. 50% should be the minimum you shoot for I guess. I'd be happy if I could achieve that. -MB

Nothing wrong with more growths, although a flower as well would be very welcome. I am waiting to see if mine will bloom this year. It has finally reached almost an 8" leafspan and should be just about full size now. They are definitely slow growers; I got mine as a seedling about four years ago.

Notes on Fred Hillerman's talk at May 11th, 1996, AAOS meeting on "Culture of Angraecoids and Other African Orchids." (Adapted by Neal Foster from a handout that Fred distributed.) Aerangis species - these plants need a free flow of air over their roots, hence most resent potting and will tolerate it only when the media used is loose and permits a considerable passage of air up through the pot. We can separate these species into two groups: (1) Those that are strictly epiphytic and want their roots well exposed: decaryana, fuscata, kotschyana, luteo-alba var. rhodosticta, stylosa; less commonly known species - coriacea, verdickii, somalensis, spiculata; and (2) Those that tolerate some potting, as in coarser mixes like fir bark or loose sphagnum: articulata, modesta, macrocentrum, collum-cygni, platyphylum, ellisii, hyaloides, fastuosa, and citrata - the last three being the most accommodating - safest to pot, and except for the last two, all can be mounted. Culture tips to remember - most mounted species will need more frequent watering; in summer they usually require it several times daily, even up to 4 or 5 times - depending on the humidity. Few will prosper on a once- or twice-a-week watering schedule. Angraecum species that can be potted or mounted - germinyianum, florulentum, leonis, equitans, elephantium, compactum, eichlerianum, superbum, longicalcar, comorense, giryamae. The last four become very large plants and mounting is not practical. Potting is usually done with coarser media when your plants have grown larger. Angraecum species that prefer potting, even in semi-terrestrial mixes - magdalenae, protensum, sororium, praestans. These all take higher levels of light and except for praestans can stand considerable chilling and near frost temperatures without harm. Angraecum species that will not tolerate root damage and disturbance are sesquipedale & viguieri. Prior to maturity (flowering), they tolerate repotting, but after flowering it is very risky to injure their roots - they either sulk for years or die if you do. Aeranthes species (except for henrici & grandiflora) prefer potting, usually in finer mixes, like it more moist and a little less light. Arachnites, caudatus, filipes, longipes, denticulata, ramosa pot well in finer mixes; grandiflora needs medium to coarser mixes and can be mounted; henrici must be mounted. Hybrids: We consider here only primary hybrids - or in a few cases a primary crossed back to a species. So far no secondary hybrid has been successfully made in the angraecoid alliance - no secondaries or tertiaries. The advantage of hybrids can be many - the best advantage being "they are hardcr to kill," are more vigorous and easier to grow. There should always be definite objectives (goals) in mind before making hybrids: to obtain smaller plants, more "floweringness," sturdier spikes, better quality flowers, etc., etc. Some of the best of the angraecoid hybrids are: Angraecum Lemforde, White Beauty, Longiscott, Vigulena, Sesquivig, Cuculena; Aerangis Somasticta, Eurychone Virginie Moulin, Euryangis Victoria Nile, and Angranthes Grandalena. ---------------------------------------- For the psychopsis, I'm not a big fan of coco fiber. It doesn't hold much water, until it breaks down, and then it's a bear to get rid of. If it were me, I'd move the psychopsis plants into lava rock in a clay pot. Psychopsis appreciate water, they just don't like sitting around wet. Ideally, they would be drenched daily and dry by night. If this sounds like a mount, you're right. I can't do this, so frequent watering in lava rock is my compromise. [Hands microphone to Mr. B for further Ang-vice.]

Not to be picky but I actually consider Stewart, et. al. to be comprehensive. The 'new Ang bible' as I fondly think of it, covers all the (known at publish date) 690 species of Angraecoid orchids. I definitely hope Brooke is right and it will not be the last Ang book written. It has elevations for all the species, you can't ask for much more than that. If one is resourceful, one can find the 'old Ang bible', "An Introduction to the Cultivated Angraecoid Orchids of Madagascar" by Hillerman and Holst, published in 1986. Oh to have been Ang-aware in the mid 80s...*sigh* It is out of print and remains the most expensive book I've ever bought. Last I saw one available, the price was $100 MORE than I paid. :) (get it on inter-library loan) One might also consider "African orchids in the wild and in cultivation" by Isobyl and Eric LaCroix, available quite cheap on amazon. "Orchids of Kenya" by Stewart & Campbell. "Orchids of Africa" by Stewart & Hennesey. "Orchids of Tropical Africa" by Stewart & Campbell. I even have "Orchids of Malawi" by Morris. Good luck finding that! :) Three cheers for Stewart! Three cheers for Hillerman! Three cheers for Angs!!! -MB