I think that's a fine idea. I'd make sure there is a lot of moisture in the plots before doing so, and soak the newspaper first unless the ground is sopping wet. Basically you are talking about layered composting, and any break-down needs plenty of moisture to go fast (presuming the ground is warm enough). The problem will be that if you wait for the ground to get warmish and the cover to get lush, you'll be upon planting-time while waiting for that chopped cover material to break down. If you do it right away the cover may be scanty (don't know when you sowed it) and covering it all up while it's cold will ensure slow activity. What you don't what is quantities of fresh-cut stuff composting right near plants or seedlings that are trying to grow. The best option is to have enough plots so as to allow the cover crop to get near-mature, cut it down and compost it in warm weather, and then use the plot for a mid to late summer planting. A variant might be to use half your plots: uproot half your cover crop and toss it on the other half and proceed with your plan, and then use some of that composted manure to fertilize the spring crops in the first half.

Contrary to what most "lawn experts" tell you dethatching is not necessary unless the thatch is more then 1/2 inch thick, and if the thatch is that thick there is a soil problem that needs to be addressed because the Soil Food Web is unable to function well. Whether grubs are a problem depends on the population, 5 or fewer per square foot are not a problem while 10 or more per square foot will be. In a good, healthy soil grubs will be kept under control by predators that will not be present in a sick soil. Recycling your grass clippings can help because they can supply 1/2 the needed 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet lawns need each year. Your soil does need organic matter which will help retain necessary mositure, as well as provide a food source for the Soil Food Web that will feed the grass you want to grow. Start by contacting the local office of your Washington State University Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH and base nutrient levels are. These simple soil tests may also be of some help in getting your soil into that good, helathy condition needed to grow a strong and healthy garden. Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES

Plant Delights has some unusual heucheras, but their prices aren't so great. I have never mail ordered from them as they are a local nursery for me and I normally hit at least one of the open house events that they have each season. This year I got 'Mint Frost', 'Frosted Violet' and 'Velvet Knight'. Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Delights

The 1930's Square on the Quilterscache.com is not actually from the 1930s - it is an original block by Marcia Hohn who owns the web site and designs many of the blocks on the site. Other patterns from the 30's: Grandmother's Flower Garden, appliqued butterflies, flower baskets, Tumbling Blocks, T blocks, Dresden Plate, Sunbonnet Sue.