At some point in the career of your spade it will develop signs of wear ie a wavy blade on a grand scale. If you don't have a grindstone at home that's coarse enough to take off the surplus, plus a fine one to restore the edge, take it in to a sharpening service to be done. If you're new to sharpening with a grindstone - start with something that doesn't matter. And ALWAYS use eye protection. ALWAYS, no matter how quick the job is. Also clean/true the cutting edge of the grinder before it gets that grooved appearance. You'll get a better result. Cut lightly. If you see the metal turning to a funny shade of blue along the edge - you're pushing too hard (and you've lost the strength in the steel at that point.) For safety, put your work in a vice - even a carpentry vice will serve at a pinch. If you slip you'll have a nasty cut, possibly stitches, and a refresher on your tetanus injection. The vice is cheaper... The drill operated grinders can be useful for doing a quick restoration on an edge, but they can also make a mess, depending on how coarse they are. They're great for taking off rivet heads when you need to replace a tool handle. (That's another story...) Once you've got a decent edge then either Al's ba$tard file (from the way the ridges are placed on the cutting surface) used with a file handle, or a honing stone will keep the edge but will take a LOT of work to remove a major notch. If you have a lot of roots to cut through then a grubber with a good sharp edge, or a heavy-duty spade specially sharpened to take the impact, will be called for, rather than using a light-weight edging spade. Sharp tools mean you use less force and less energy. Safer, and not so tiring on a hard job. It's a skill worth learning.

Les, what were you doing up at that hour?! Thanks for thinking more about this silly room. Re the first link: You know, I'd been looking at that kind of fixture, too. It always appeals to me as I pass by it in LP. I just wondered if it would be kosher since I have the brushed nickel bedside lights...but I like those, definitely. The other problem is the relative severity of the line--I want more flow on the overall shape... The second: it's o.k., but doesn't do even as much for me as the green capiz shells do--it looks like Everylamp, iykwim... Have to say, DH is selling the green capiz shells hard. Sustainability and non-Chinese manufacture mean a lot to him...and they're not really green, so much as a warm grey, like the paint color...they really pick it up. What am I going to do?? After finding them, he's even not as in love with the crystals, since they're made in China. We both could live with the crystals, although he prefers the capiz shells--I really do like crystals, they're sweet and have movement and air...did you see the similar-looking fixture I posted? I do like the idea of not buying Chinese-made, though...*sigh*

Beak looks WAY too big for a warbler IMHO. Maybe check on Western Tanager (female) also; field marks are too difficult to see on the photo, but if you see her often, you could narrow it down by checking specific field marks, song, flight pattern, size, habitat, etc. Check some more possiblities on the web site I linked below. Or post her pic on the Birding Forum for experts on birds other than blue, LOL. To make it easier for them, add your location to your MyPage. BlueBars Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/BirdGuide/

Gorgeous photos Zuzu and Beth, and the rich colors and variations in the Dot roses are so very tempting. Unfortunately (sob) they are notoriously wimps at being winter hardy. I've tried so many of these only to have them not even pretend to survive our winters even with babying. The Pernetianas in general are very iffy prospects for winter survival as I've discovered to my dismay, so I mostly have to enjoy them in your yards. Surprisingly, the only one that has been reasonably hardy is the lavender (of all things), Intermezzo. You both commented on how wimpy it is for you, but it must have strong roots because it has come back for at least 5 winters for me in an average spot. Mine isn't very big, but it does bloom off and on. The only photo I've been able to get though shows ratty edges on it with faded pink, and nothing like the beauty this rose can show under warmer climates: I've tried all of the following with no success over the winters, and at least for the Dot lovers in warmer climates there are alternate sources for many of these after Vintage is sadly no more: Catalonia (Rogue Valley) Condesa de Sastago (Burlington) Girona (Burlington) Lila Vidri (Rogue Valley) Tarde Gris (Palatine) If I could overwinter another one, it would be that lovely yellow Condesa de Sastago, but I'm frankly too afraid of committing rose-icide with very poor odds of survival, even for an optimistic zone pusher like me. Cynthia