wordwiz, I cannot fully agree with you, at least for my garden. (and yet the world will continue to turn :) In my hot climate, I water daily with a hose and make the rounds of my pots twice, letting the water run through the pot the second time (here's where the leaching occurs). If I don't fully wet all the soil in the pot, I would have to water more than once a day, and that's not practical for me. In a milder climate, I am sure your way would work. No doubt, a weekly feeding would work, maybe better, but that's why I use the Osmocote. After having plants rot and/or smother in pots, I made the decision to use only commercial potting mixes several years ago. I do not add manure or compost to them (though compost would likely work, needing to be changed yearly, I expect). I recently had a friend asking me what is wrong with her tomatoes in pots. When I ascertained that she added half manure to her potting mix, I recommended that she dump out the pot and repot. I believe our climate is too humid, and our season too long to tolerate anything that reduces drainage or air uptake. I completely agree with digdirt when he said that since potting mix is not organic, there are no microorganisms to stimulate with compost or manures. I would add that there are also no earthworms in it to keep it stirred up, therefore manures, etc. just become totally compacted and smother the life out of the plants. Our difference of experience just goes to prove that gardening is not exactly the same from one climate region to another, and even from one garden to another. We all have to learn to adapt to our conditions. dgb, If I had enough compost, I would add a couple inches to the beds each time I plant a new crop, but I do not. So, I topdress all of the beds in late winter/very early spring (if the compost is not perfectly finished) or at spring planting time (if it is). I also add about a pound of Blood Meal to each of my beds (8'x3.5') and work it in with a spade at planting time. So far, the plants look the best they ever have, so I have not side-dressed them. At this point, I would be more likely to give them a liquid feed of Fish Emulsion if they start to look needy, but so far, so good. I will likely give the beds another 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen in mid summer when it's time for the second crop: 1/2 pound for beans/peas, and 1 pound for squash, cucs, etc. Come fall, I'll give them another pound for fall/winter vegs: brassicas, onions, lettuce, etc (along with some more compost if I have it). Tomatoes and peppers are, of course, an all season crop. I very well may side dress them again with blood meal in mid summer, but I am going to keep an eye on the plants and see how they look. I don't want to overdo the nitrogen at the expense of fruit. Again, I would love for other organic growers to join in to this conversation.

Hey there. I'm sorry about Tiny. We get as attached to our finny pets as we do the furry ones. I've shed a few tears myself at times.I remember being so surprised that some fish had real personalities. Test kits are important. We can sometimes get away without using them but sooner or later it can catch up with us. I'll give you a very brief explanation for someone without a daily familiarity with chemistry. The reason I asked about rain is that a heavy rainfall can cause a PH crash which can kill fish rapidly. That is a drop in the acid /alkaline levels in the water which is on a 1-10 scale. Below 7 (approximately) is acid, above is alkaline. There can be other causes but the rain is a fairly common one. The reading in the PH test should be around or above 7.8. Higher is ok, lower is not particularly good for Koi. The important thing is to prevent rapid, wide swings in the numbers. A temporary prevention with a heavy rain is to slowly add a box of ordinary Bicarbonate of soda to stabilize the water. Some ponders add the bicarb before the rain. There are other ways to stabilize PH. Bicarb is for an emergency. The KH test tells you about the resistance of the water to a change in the PH. If your KH is good according to the test, then it is less likely for the PH to change rapidly. If there has been a PH crash it should be corrected before correcting the KH (aka hardness). Ammonia is a killer. It shows up when there is a lot of fish poop, mulm or debris on the bottom, too much fish food or the filters need cleaning or any combination. Ammonia drives out oxygen and can cause great discomfort and even death for the fish. 10 to 20% water changes, addition of oxygen through bubblers and splashing of the waterfall helps. I use a combination of Activated charcoal and Ammocarb in a cloth bag in the waterfall tank to absorb ammonia and other toxins, odors and stains in the water. The nitrite and nitrate tests indicate too many nutrients in the water. If the level is high, the Ammonia levels will soon rise. Water changes, reduced feeding, elimination of mulm and debris and clean filters all help. The string algae in the water can be removed with a brush like a toilet bowl brush. If there is a lot, pour hydrogen peroxide directly on the algae to kill it. For your pond a pint bottle is about the right size. A quarter cup won't do much of anything. It won't hurt the fish but don't pour it directly on them. Treatment can be repeated in 24 hours although peroxide loses its effectiveness in a few minutes as the water dilutes it. There are different kind of test kits. The liquid/ test tube types are best. The dip sticks are tempting but not always accurate. A test kit will cost about $30.00 and covers the five tests above. It is usually good for a year. A test for oxygen is available but not often used. The affects of low levels is too readily apparent. I hope this isn't too daunting. It usually takes about five or ten minutes to do the tests. Water changes are a good practice. Tap water is different everywhere and you probably shouldn't add it directly. I spray it or add it very, very slowly to moving water to avoid the stuff they use as purifiers. The chemical suggested is usually a good bet to reduce those although I don't generally like to add chemicals off the store shelf,. Keep us posted.

Hi Have heard that the state is using some type of bacteria to combat WH since it's sooo invasive.. From what I gather it's spread by contact and is not airborne . Have noted a sharp decline in nearby canals where i got the original stock. Actually it's against the law to culture it in fllorida so i guess i'd better not complain?? lol Whatever the cause it's affected only WH . Have always found it the most effective plant for filtration and makes a great mulch for terrestrials lol. There are many alternatives BUT many of them are also "Noxious weeds" lol Think I'll do without the "floaters for awhile to see what happens . My lone tropical water llily has covered the entire surface anyway Thanks gary

I just set up a small pond/water garden in a xl pot that holds about 45 gal. I am using the Pondmaster 190 and so far (2 months) I really like it. The filters are easy to clean and keeps the water nice and clear. You could leave off the top piece if you don't want the bell tower effect.