We're not using any heat at the moment although we had an electric space heater turned on at night in the living room for a few evenings in November. At the moment it's just after midnight and the temperature indoors is 22C (just over 71F) so it's really comfortable. We sleep with windows wide open summer and winter, unless there's a lot of wind when I have to close them. I put flannelette sheets on the bed in winter and we sleep with feather duvets year round except on the hottest nights of summer. Our bedroom is on a shady side so it's always cool for sleeping. We haven't put on the central heating yet this year as it's been so mild. As we're accustomed to mild weather we become real wimps on the occasional cold spell. (Cold is around 60F for us.) We see the tourists dressed in shorts and flip flops and we (meaning most long term residents) dress in jackets, leather boots and neck scarves. You can tell who are residents and who have come here on holiday by the sharp difference in their clothing on a cooler day. But winter evenings here call for socks, long pants, sleeves and sometimes a pullover sweater. We watch TV with woolen rugs over our legs and cats on our laps and if it turns chilly we may turn on some heat as well. SharonCb

Upon troubleshooting my GDO sensor problem, I read that capacitors can wear out & are also affected by cold. Re-soldering many of the connections didn't help. When left in the freezer and reconnected while frozen, the green light still wouldn't come on until it warmed up (above freezing). I tried warming the top of the largest capacitor (carefully!!!), and the green light came on when it warmed up. I replaced the 470uf (microfarad) capacitor, the sensor survived the freezer, and worked immediately when hooked up, still good and frozen! I left the 10uf one alone, though I should probably have replaced it too. The part should be available at any electronic-parts store, should be under $1 I would guess. One warning: be sure to observe POLARITY of the capacitor BEFORE you remove it. The circuit board on my sensor had a + for each of the two capacitors, and the capacitors themselves are marked with a stripe of - - - on the negative side. Also, make sure to get a capacitor that fits, my replacement was just a bit taller, but still fit fine. I can't guarantee this will fix your problem, but it worked for my situation, and it's worth a shot to save the $35-$45 they want for replacement sensors. Hope this helps!

Just my two cents, on heat transfer in a dynamic environment. I.e. fluid as opposed to a solid block of anything. There is a lot of opposing theory here. First lets try and apples and apples it. If the surface area and thermal dynamic properties of the heat exchanger are the same i.e. one is aluminum a one is copper. And the only variable is the speed at which the water flows through the pipe. You first have to understand the effects of laminar flow on the xsfer of heat (energy) from the walls of the heat exchanger to the fluid in the center of the pipe. Due to the increase of friction at the edges of the water Colum inside the pipe , the water in the center of the pipe flows faster, with me so far? The statement "heat xsfer is greatest when the deference between the bodies is greatest" is in a way correct when you look at percentage of transfer. What you fail to take into account is that the transfer works both ways. At the same time you are heating the water , you are cooling the pipe. Thus requiring more energy to heat the pipe. Since the energy to heat the pipe is limited i.e. the amperage of your wiring in a heat pump or flow of gas in a furnace, You must stick to real world. Another fact is heat transfer has momentum. Once you pass a point of the curve you see a ramping effect called thermal momentum. Soooo if the gauge is how fast you raise a body of water outside the exchanger i.e. a pool or spa the question is simple the longer a molecule is in proximity to a heat source the more energy it will adsorb. So the two options are 1. to run that "piece" of water quickly through the exchanger so it can deposit its heat into the body of water and go back and get more? Or , 2. to allow that "piece" of water more time in the exchanger to gather more energy to deposit it in to the water. The end result is the same, Hot. The deference is the curve. We use this formula every day in controlling chemical reactions through temperature. The slower moving fluid reaches the steeper part of the curve faster, thus gaining Thermal momentum fasterÂ.. ending up with the body of water reaching a desired temperature faster. DamÂ.. I need a beer!

I have the exact same issue but performed a few different troubleshooting steps that were not mentioned here. To begin, this is a rental home built in 1972. All aluminum wiring with some copper for lighting overhead that was updated in 2009. My washer is brand new, LG high efficiency & overpriced. I’ll add that I have a matching oversized LG gas dryer too. They both plug into 1 receptacle with the a top and bottom outlet. This is wired back to the breaker box as 2 20 amp circuits. They share a neutral wire. The circuit breakers were old and not joined with any bar that physically connected the two switches into one so that one off makes both off. The receptacle was old, loose and burnt up some. And even more concerning, the tab on the line (right side) was not broken to properly separate the top and bottom circuits. Luckily I didn’t find out the hard way. Although the panel was not labeled/correctly, I went through process of elimination by turning everything off and then testing one breaker one at a time and matched to outlet(s)& lighting it controlled. I assume that someone replaced this laundry receptacle at least once in the distant past and forgot to break the right tab. I replaced the receptacle with a new 20 amp outlet and broke the tab on the right side only. There is a red & black wire (on right with tab connecting top to bottom removed) and one shared neutral wire that is white (on left with tab intact.). It is also grounded of course. I also replaced the two circuit breakers in the box with new and specifically for this type of setup. It has the bar that physically joins the switches for off and on. I also checked and tightened all neutrals in the panel. But even after all that, the damn dimming still occurs when agitating. I should add that all my lighting is LED too. Here is the last important clue that I would think others could try too. I was doing some laundry and it had just started to agitate and dim like always. Just as a temporary measure, I paused the cycle & then hooked my washer up with an extension cord to another nearby circuit. It’s about ten feet away and it’s a heavy duty cord but was my last straw of an idea to check & was not a permanent arrangement. Anyways, the washing machine worked fine and there was no dimming throughout the entire cycle. I left it like that for a few days and it continued to perform without dimming the lights. Additionally, this dimming would occur whether the dryer was also being used or when it was off. Keep in mind that they share one neutral. I tested both the top and bottom outlets and the readings all indicate a grounded correct setup. There is no open neutral. I still don’t know why it does this but believe it is definitely related to wiring, not machine. Perhaps i also need power company to come out like person above had when their issue was resolved. I’m moving to purchased home in a matter of weeks so the landlord can decide how to proceed from here. just to give you an idea of the mess this was....