Patching liner

17 years ago

Are the liner patch kits worthwhile? Do they work okay? DH was a little too exhuberant when cutting off excess foam after he reworked the slate of the waterfall, and cut a

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Comments (5)

destany
17 years ago
I've only done one patch. Well, DH did it, 3 years ago. He used a bicycle inner tube patch kit. I don't reccommend it of course, I'm sure stuff that's actually MADE for ponds would be much better! But, in three years it's never leaked so I think you'd do fine with the standard patching kits.
horton
17 years ago
Tenroc, the patches work great and are stronger than the original liner, once applied.
Before applying the EPDM patch, clean the area where it is going thouroughly and wipe it off with cleaning solvent. [gasoline will do the job] then wipe it dry.
You can if you wish, you can apply a coating of rubber adhesive, the type used for bicycle inner tube repairs, to the patch area before applying the EPDM patch. Let the adhesive dry. That dry adhesive coating will help the patch's adhesive stick to the liner even more.
Be sure everything is flat, dry and there are no air bubbles under the patch. If you can use a small roller to press the patch down as you apply it, so much the better.
The EPDM patches usually come 12" X 12" size, [adhesive already on one side] but you can buy the one-sided splicing tape, which is 6" wide, by the linear foot. The tape might be better for your situation, as you do not need to cover a foot square area to patch a 2" slit.
"Horton"
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I tink Beckett makes a patch kit; I've seen it in the past at home depot stores for 10-12$ bucks. I'm not a huge fan of patch kits though. My preferred method is use the small container of liquid epdm. I use it as a paste to attach a small piece of liner over the tear and then cover over the entire piece again with liquid epdm and let it cure for a couple days. I've used this method several times in various places and never had a return leak. Used to be only available in the 1 gallon container but last summer I found it online a lot cheaper in the smaller size. Of course, I'm sure people have used patch kits with good succes as well -- this is just my preferred method.
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Thanks Mike, is this what you are talking about http://www.lowes.com/pd_239232-27977-23711_0?productId=3172833&Ntt=cim+1000+trowel+grade&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0_s?newSearch=true$Ntt=cim%201000%20trowel%20grade$y=8$x=43 Also, is there a specific type of seaming tape you use or does it matter. As for the trowl grade, if I apply that to the tape seams there should be no chance of leak right? Also, I was talking to a relative of mine who runs a construction company. He spoke of some sort of compound that you can toss in the water that finds the leak and plugs it. Have you ever heard of this or used it?
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I just had painters in to paint the bathrooms (and MBR and elsewhere), and I put the shower rod up in one of them, also a tension rod, up this afternoon, 24 hours later. Because it's been a few days since I had a shower and I'll certainly need one today! LOL! When I stepped back, I thought it could go up another inch or so, but I didn't want to mess with it. The plastic rubber at the ends of the rod are all business and I figured there might be trouble if I tried to rejigger. It's called a tension rod for a reason! LOL! On to the pictures: Maybe the wire behind them is just too low or there's too much of it (and therefore too much slack). I'd think that'd be the only reason the top of the hanger would be showing. You can shorten or reposition the wire on most any frame, you just need the small eye-hole screws, or you can use what's there if you can get them out. It could be that if you bought the picture already framed at a store, the eye-hole screws were just placed in the frame at the wrong height. The hanging wire needs to be mostly taut. If the picture is projecting too far from the wall, perhaps you are using too large a hook for the picture. The bumpers help a bit with this (they go only on the bottom corners). I've found that hanging a series of framed prints together--lined up either just horizontally or 2 above 2--is the hardest to get perfect. Even if using a paper template to start with, I always need to adjust the wire's tautness (or on my component metal frames, slide the wire holders just a smidge up or down--enough to drive you crazy! Plus, over time, they can loosen up enough to not line up anymore).
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In order for the water to go out the backwash line, it has to go through the multiport. If you don't have a sight glass on the multiport or the backwash line, you won't see any water going through the valve. If you have turned off your pump and water continues to come out the backwash line, then it is siphoning out through the multiport. This would happen if the end of the backwash line is below the water level in the pool. You can either open the air relief valve on the top of the filter, unscrew the sight glass or cut the backwash line after the multiport to stop the siphoning. I am 99.9 % certain that the problem is with the multiport. The multiport valve is the one with the spring loaded handle that has different positions or notches that the handle fits into. The handle is the one you change positions to backwash the filter.
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indiancreeker
17 years ago
I just found a small hole in my 45 mil EDPM liner. It's about the size of the tip of my little finger, and it's just below the water line, about 5 inches from the liner edge. I bought a Sunterra PVC Liner Repair Kit at Menard's before checking this forum. Does anyone know if this kit will work okay? It includes 2 4x6 patches and a tube of adhesive. The patches have a dull satiny finish on one side and glossy on the other. I assume the dull side goes against the liner, but the instructions don't say anything about which side to use. Does anyone know, or wish to offer an opinion?
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
17 years ago
indiancreeker, my opinion is that I would not use a PVC repair kit on an EDPM liner. They are 2 different types of materials. PVC plastic is not the same as EDPM rubber.
nmpondguy
17 years ago
When I first built my pond (4 years ago) I had cut a 1 1/2 inch circular hole in my liner for a pipe boot. That hole turned out to be unusable because the contractor who laid a concrete ring around the perimiter of the pond had clogged the pipe.

Anyway, I read somewhere how to patch a small hole using a scrap of EDPM and PVC cement (believe it or not). I cut two 2 inch EDPM circles and glued them over the hole, front and back, with the PVC cement. The patches stuck to each other and overlapped the hole. No leaks for 4 years now!

Bottom line: for relatively small holes you don't need to buy expensive patching products. A scrap of EDPM and some PVC cement (leftovers from the initial install and therefore FREE) will work just fine.

If you want added peace of mind, you could run a bead of silicone sealant (also left over) around the edge of the patch after the PVC cement dries. That's not necessary, but if you tend to worry about things, it would help your nerves.

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Patching liner

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destany

horton

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