Ortho Brush-B-Gone is a good product. Many have talked about how to avoid a rash. Here is good advice from the FDA - http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/796_ivy.html: Because urushiol can penetrate the skin within minutes, there's no time to waste if you know you've been exposed. "The earlier you cleanse the skin, the greater the chance that you can remove the urushiol before it gets attached to the skin," says Hon-Sum Ko, M.D., an allergist and immunologist with FDA's Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. Cleansing may not stop the initial outbreak of the rash if more than 10 minutes has elapsed, but it can help prevent further spread. If you've been exposed to poison ivy, oak or sumac, if possible, stay outdoors until you complete the first two steps: * First, Epstein says, cleanse exposed skin with generous amounts of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. (Don't return to the woods or yard the same day. Alcohol removes your skin's protection along with the urushiol and any new contact will cause the urushiol to penetrate twice as fast.) * Second, wash skin with water. (Water temperature does not matter; if you're outside, it's likely only cold water will be available.) * Third, take a regular shower with soap and warm water. Do not use soap before this point because "soap will tend to pick up some of the urushiol from the surface of the skin and move it around," says Epstein. * Clothes, shoes, tools, and anything else that may have been in contact with the urushiol should be wiped off with alcohol and water. Be sure to wear gloves or otherwise cover your hands while doing this and then discard the hand covering.

One trick I've heard about is to bury something underneath the edge of the liner to give it support - say some bricks or small concrete slabs. What this does is gives the liner edge some support, and it also allows you to place the extra liner behind these supports and under the soil (creating a rubber-lined "lip" that is above the water line). This will allow you to have excess liner available, and will also allow you to plant terrestrial plants extremely close to the water's edge. Don't forget to wrap the underlayment over these supports as well. One thing I plan on doing for my upper pond (that I will be adding when spring hits) is to create some bog areas on the edges - make a wide and/or deep "shelf" that is a couple inches below the water line, and then use something as a divider between this bog and the main pond. Bricks, stacked rocks, wood planks, etc can work as dividers - just depends on what look you're going for (I'll be using Trex-type composite lumber). Fill in behind the divider with dirt and you have your moist soil/bog area. Combine this with the edge treatment above and you probably wouldn't be able to tell where the yard ends and the pond begins if you pick the plants right.

Well it's Kansas so it will stop raining just before the drought begins. ;) Like pondmanimal said, check for the leak. I found my pond leaking at the interface between a plumbing pipe and the liner. Do you have any plumbing (pipes) in use at the pond? I would think to look there first. But the water between the liners might be a liner leak. The owner of my local pond store has years of experience with sales and installation of ponds. She told me that if you can afford to, shut off the pumps and see what happens over time. I guess if the pond stops leaking during the shutdown then you know the leak is in the plumbing. That sorta worked for me.

Most of the liners are stapled to the frame. Move both sashes to the down position and pry the liner away from the frame a little. This should let you remove the staples. Then repeat the process for the bottom half. You should be able to remove the sashes and jamb liners in one motion. Some of the older systems will actually let you compress the liners and tilt the sash. (worth a try) WEAR SAFETY GLASSES, SOMETIMES THE SPRINGS TAKE OFF LIKE MISSILES!