That ratio illustrates that, on average, plants use 1.5 parts of P and 7 parts of K for every 10 parts of N. The actual amounts of P and K that fertilizers supply are not what it says on the box. 10-10-10, for instance, is actually 10-4.3-8.3 after the factoring is done to account for the fact that P is reported as P2O5 (phosphorous pentoxide) and K is reported as K2O (potassium oxide). That's the background ...... what's important is, after the factoring is done for 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers, you'll find that they supply actual amounts of NPK in a ratio almost exactly that of the average ratio of nutrients plants use. 18-6-12 would be exactly a 3:1:2 ratio, so your CRF is pretty spot on in that regard. The only drawback to using it is, you relinquish control of when nutrients are supplied to your plants. When it gets really hot, there is advantage in withholding fertilizer, and you lack that control with CRFs. Al

I wish I had a nickel for every time someone came to my yard, admired my plants and then said since I was a "professional" I must be using some secret fertilizer on my plants to make them look so nice. Are they surprised when I explained I buy what is cheapest at the time! K-grow from K-mart for a liquid fertilizer. High in Urea so it takes about two weeks before you see any reaction by the plant. I mention this because their are no "miracle fertilizers". I am not buying tomato grow, rose grow ect for each plant i fertilize. Yes I agree some plants are more heavy nitrogen feeders than others. Sometimes the issue is the fertility of the soil you have. I have used 10-10-10 on my tree fruits with good results. I have used lawn fertilizer (28-0-16) and had good results too, just use at a much lower rate as higher in nitrogen. My soils are fine on phosphorus and we have a phosphorus ban here anyway unless it is a new planting. I did not spring for a soil test but let the trees tell me the problem. I strive for 18"-24" of new growth on young fruit trees. If I don't get it, then next year I fertilize. Too much growth, then cut back or eliminate fertilizing the following year. I fertilize all my young fruit trees with a granular fertilizer just after leaf out by broadcasting it around the drip-line of the tree. My soil must be very low in nitrogen as imust apply a lite application around old established trees too or their foliage turns yellow-green by mid-June. I fertilize the old trees at about half the rate I use on the young ones so I do not promote a lot of growth but have good leaf color. I know this is not scientific but it has worked for me and I am happy with the results. If I was professionally growing fruit for a living, I would gladly pay for a soil test as well worth the cost and not worth the risk of going without it.

I love the Hitchhiker's Guide but I am absolutely no mathematician, so for me it could be anything besides 101010. I just re-read the book for the umpteenth time.

Sorry that you don't feel good, hope it gets better, Thanks for posting quotes from one of my favorite persons. Se could use her now.