This is probably wild, but I am the type person to try to fix something with a coat-hanger or rubber band. Could you dig a hole about 1 ft. deep little larger than the stock tank, pour some cement in and push the stock tanks down into the cement. It might need some kind of lining material between the tank and the cement. Then you could put some rocks or plants around the base to cover up the cement. Just a thought. Glenda

Hi Glenda!

I think like you do too! I just try to think of every angle there is. These aren't in permanent spots, so I'm not sure about the cement. But mabe I wouldn't need too much of it.....just below where the crack is. I wonder if there is some other type of glue/caulk, etc. that we could just mix and set on the ground, and then set the tank on it. Surely there's something out there that would work!
I was thinking of something like a big sponge over it (on the inside)that would be held down with heavy rocks???
Too bad the crack is in a corner. I was thinking anywhere else, I could cut a small section out (like a rectangle), and then get a piece of something like fiberglass and put it on the inside of the tank, and attach it to the rest of the tank with screws. The tension would hopefully slow the leak down......especially if I used a big rubber gasket around that piece. Too bad my husband and I aren't very mechanically inclined.....or I'm sure we could fix it somehow. I'm afraid I might end up having to go with a liner (see my other post). But at least I have that option! Keep those ideas coming!

have you tried any of the goop products, plumbers goop or the like, there must be something that will stick to it, epoxy, something that will melt the tank and reseal it...???

I thought goop was a handwashing thing? But I think I know what you mean.
Here's an idea......maybe the crack is so thin that I could put alot of something like sand in a small amount of water, and let it seal itself with just dirt??? Maybe if the intial water is dirty enough, it will just plug it up??? I know that's sort of a stupid idea.....since once all that water pressure of 100 gallons of water gets on top of it, it will probably blow. Back to the drawing board! :)

You could try taking a propane torch or an electric soldering iron and melting the crack back together. If you need a little more of the same material to fill the crack in you can cut a small amount off the top edge. Then to finish it off I would put a piece of liner seam tape over that. Just clean it off real good before you stick the tape on.

Sorry about your tanks Cath...this is the first year I did leave the water in mine. It is a 90 gallon Behlin...says tested to -20*F. I used a 100 watt deicer. We froze to about 4" several times, but when it warmer up, I chipped the ice and threw it out and refilled the tank. I guess I'd do it again if I had fish in there.

I would think a good epoxy would seal it ok. Clean and sand the cracked area, epoxy than use a hairdryer to melt it in.

I've had good luck so far with polyurethane sealant on similar cracks even on problem plastics, being flexible really helps on these defects where future movement is likely. That crack, however, might require some additional structural reinforcement or at least good support underneath. The urethane roofing and flashing sealants sold at big box stores are pretty good.

I sure don't know why liner wouldn't work, but around here $50 buys a new 110 gallon tank.

Thanks everyone.
Sounds like a liner might cost as much as a new tank, but I'll have to see.
bbriggs.......would I use that stuff you suggested on the inside of the tank, and would it hurt anything in there (plants, frogs)? Also...should I do it to both sides of the tank? (inside and outside).
And when you said additional structural reinforcement, do you mean something that would keep it from twisting?
Thanks again.
P.S........I just found that my 3rd tank is split in the same spot. :(

So sorry Cath :(

Farmers and ranchers leave their stock tanks full of water all winter. I doubt though that they like the plastic tanks if they will break.

I wonder if metal tanks would have split if they had been frozen?

Farmers and ranchers leave their stock tanks full of water all winter. I doubt though that they like the plastic tanks if they will break.

I wonder if metal tanks would have split if they had been frozen?

Catherinet I would guess that they both broke in the same spot. What happened is that as the tank froze it froze from the outside to the center. When the water froze going out the drain hole it locked the ice from being able to slide up the side of tank so that when the water below it froze it couldn't push the ice up so it had to push the bottom out. Sealing the tank isn't that hard the problem is that when tank is filled it won't be strong enough to take the pressure and will spilt open again.
Mike

why not just pour the concrete in the bottom of the stock tank? Of course some fiberglass fabric and some surfboard resin would be lighter. No old surfers out there who know how to repair boards or boats or Corvettes?
Talk to a boat repair guy and then buy the materials.

I have the feeling that anything that froze that solid would have to give somewhere, whether its metal or poly.
Mike......I'll bet you're right about that drain hole. I was trying to figure out why there. I was thinking that the top froze, then lower and lower down, and by the time the bottom froze, it couldn't push all that weight up.
I could turn it into a bog, but if I get 3 new stocktanks, my yard will start looking like a junkyard!
Last year, we put in 2 300 gallon stocktanks in the ground for a pond, and a lotus bog. So I guess this would be a good year to simplify......but dang, I sure loved having those stocktanks above ground, so I didn't have to lean over so much.
I've also thought of turning them into raised veggie beds, but they would require a ton of dirt.
I guess we could put one on the front porch to hold firewood. And maybe when my kids have babies, we can use them for playpens. :)

I sort of feel bad, having 2 posts going about this. The other one was about a liner, but its also turned into a "how to fix" thread.
But....how's this for an idea.....do they sell something like metal shims? Could I possibly pound something into the crack, and it would be like a finger in the dike? I realize there will be alot of water pressure, but I could pound it from the inside.
(I asked this question on the other thread too, but I'll try to just keep repair questions just on this thread.) Thanks!

Several people have commented the water pressure will be significant trying to open that crack up - bowing the side out and the bottom down. That's going to be the question on a repair. A 10 oz (approx) tube of polyurethane sealant is about $3.00 and will be enough to fix a couple tanks. Use coarse sandpaper to rough it up in a wide area (a few inches each side and ends) around the crack, I'd probably do both sides. Put on a nice thick layer, maybe 1/4 inch thick. It's elastic but strong, much better adhesion than silicone. Very similar formulations are used for permanant adhesive/sealant in marine applications. It's safe for fish and plants. It's moisture cure and may take days to set up, before it sets up it will clean up with mineral spirits. After that it has to wear off your hands and such.

I've used it on polypropylene, a plastic that nothing sticks to well, and it worked. I also used it to repair a rubber track on a Caterpillar loader. Didn't expect that to work, but when a couple thousand dollars is at stake I figured it doesn't hurt to try. That track's still working a year later.

Do you have any EPDM liner at all? A scrap of liner could be laid over a thick layer of the polyurethane sealant, smushed down in it, to yield a positive seal even if the polyurethane fails and the crack opens up again. Then the big question is whether the crack will propogate further. Don't know the answer, sure is cheap to try.

Thanks bbriggs,
Do you think your method would work better than using a soldering iron to melt it back together?
Your method sounds hopeful!

"Farmers and ranchers leave their stock tanks full of water all winter."

True, but we also use tank heaters, because a huge block of ice does our thirsty livestock no good at all.

I don't know regarding melting the crack back together. I've done that kind of thing before and it can work, never seems as strong as it once was (not tried on a rubbermade product though). Might be able to steal some material from elsewhere on the tank to augment the repair. Short of fabricating a plate to bridge the crack (which strikes me as a bit troublesome and not worth the effort) it's a game of try it and see. I have a fair amount of faith in the polyurethane sealant, a bit less in a 'welded' repair, but maybe rubbermade stuff welds great. They're not mutually exclusive. You could try either and still have the other alternative, or you could do both.

Cath, going along with bbiggs approach to the repair. There is a product now on the market called Auto Plastic Weld, distributed by Solder-it Inc, Pleasantville, N.Y.
I purchased a small tube of it a couple of weeks ago . I have not used it on anything yet, so I cannot vouch for it's repair qualities and durability.

The manufacturers say that it is and I quote, "For virtually all plastics" and is it a "New Technological Breakthrough".

When applied to a crack/split it must be heated with a heat gun [hairdryer type] or a propane torch to amalgamate it with the material being repaired. Read the instructions well before using.

As I said I have not tried it, but you could contact Solder-it Inc on line and ask them what they think about using it.
It is used to repair ABS raidiator tanks, overflow reservoir tanks, washer reservoir tanks and other auto plastic items. So it may be the stuff for you.
Now it comes in a small syringe applicator about the size of a small toothpaste tube, that cost me $5.00. You would need a few tubes, I would think.

Check with the manufactures, they will know best about what and how much you would need, if in fact the product can be used for your purpose.

I agree with bbiggs that area of the stock tank seem to be the "weak link" , probably because of the bends and drain plug there.
It will require to be strengthened whatever repair is done. The tank material must be pretty thin at that point after being formed in the mold during manufacture. Rubbermaid should have some warranty against defects like that, one would think? I would be trying them again, after all it happened two three of your tanks not just one!

When you get to the Solder-it site click on automotive repairs link in the lefthand column.

Anyway that is my two cents worth.
"Horton"

Here is a link that might be useful: Auto Plastic Weld.

I read on an ice fishing site where a guy had a hole in his poly sled and he took it to a radiator repair shop and they were able to fix it as good as new. Apparently some newer radiators are now poly. If they could fix a radiator that would be under pressure I would guess it would hold water in a tank. Good Luck.

craig

If you don't have liner available, a piece of inner tube from a tire would probably work to use with the glue or epoxy or whatever kind of stick-um you use. Glenda

Thanks everyone!
Thanks for all that info about the company Horton. When you say it will need to be strengthened afterwards, what did you mean?
The lady that answered the phone at Rubbermaid said they were only warranted for 1 year. I've had these 3-5years. Plus......I try to be fair, and I think I'm the one who's responsible here, don't you? I let all 3 tanks sit full of water all winter, even after it was around 0 degrees out for a week or 2. So I think I'm the weak link in this chain, and have to take responsibility for it.
I just might call around to find a radiator repair place. That might be easier in the long run than me trying to do this.
Thanks again everyone!

Just a thought, but aren't these stock tanks made of fiberglass? If so, an auto body shop might be able to fix it.

I just called the 1-800 number for Solder-It, and this guy was really great. He told me to go to Lowe's and buy something called "pvc pipeweld". Maybe this is what several of you were referring to. He told me exactly how to do it.
I'll need to buy a low heat heat gun, but hopefully that won't be too expensive. Plus, with all these stocktanks I have, it might be good to just have one around.
It would be great if this works.
I'm anxious to hear what you meant by needing to additionally reinforcement even after the repair Horton.
I wonder if I should put some sort of sealant/caulk over this repair when I'm done?
I'd be lost without you guys!

Cath, did the guy at Solder-it say whether he thought the auto weld would work or not?
What were his instructions about repairing the tanks with PVC pipeweld?
I'd be interested to read what he advised you and I'm sure others would like to know how to repair their stock-tank should they require to.
As far as supporting that area, after you do the repairs, there are various ways it could be done.
A EPDM liner patch could be put over the repaired area for one.
Are your tanks in the ground or just sitting on top of the ground?
"Horton"

Hi Horton,
I just called and told him that someone suggested that they may have a substance that would help me repair my Rubbermaid stocktank. He asked if I knew what it was made of and I didn't know. He said that this seems to be the best stuff for any kind of plastic. He said to try to open up the crack a little more (with a file or a hasp.....although it might not be necessary if the crack was open enough), so that the pipeweld stuff can get into it. It comes in a syringe. Then he said to heat it, and that 195 degrees F is all you need. He said you go back and forth over with the heat gun, until the texture changes from shiny to dull, and then it will be cured after 12 hours. He said the fact that it cures with a lower heat temp is good because the plastic around it won't melt.
He said it essentially becomes one with the plastic, so it wouldn't leach into the water. He didn't know if I would need to do both sides of the stocktank, but I had planned on doing that.
He didn't say anything about the auto weld, because I didn't bring up that specific name. When I called him, I just told him my predicament, and asked which stuff he would suggest. He was very personable. I should have gotten his name for you.
This "pvc pipeweld" comes in 2 colors, and he gave me the SKU numbers for them: White-21496 and Black-21497......in case you want to take a look at them at Lowe's.
Would the EPDM patch just be attached with some sort of caulk?
These tanks are above ground.

Cath, That is the same product as I have here. On the actual label on the syringe it is called "Plastic Weld Repair Paste". On the packaging they named it Auto Plastic Weld.

Anyway I figured it was the same stuff your man was talking about. His description on how it is used is exactly the same as the instructions I have here.
By the way that would be a "file or a rasp", not a hasp.
LOL, we will make a "pond mechanic" out of you yet Cath!

The EPDM patch has it's own adhesive on it, it is peel and stick. You may find them at Lowes, Home Depot or a pond store near you.
The surface must be cleaned with solvent [or gasoline would do] prior to applying the patch.
If you cannot find the patches, 3" EPDM single side adhesive tape, will do the job, just cut it to size.
It is usually sold by the foot.
It maybe easier to apply the tape to the outside of your tank than the inside.
I do not think you will have the thickness in the tanks material to "vee cut" the crack [with the file or rasp] on both sides.
Again I would turn the tanks upside down and do the repairs on the outside. It will be much more convenient for you.

Bear in mind whatever you do, the surfaces must be spotlessly clean or the weld/patch will not adhere properly.
"Horton"

LOL Hasp.....oops.
Do you think I should try to repair both the inside and the outside? Especially on the outside, there are alot of shreds coming out of the crack. Should I try to sand those down? It seems like they may offer more surface area to work with, if I leave them. It sure would be good if I could open up the crack a little, so more stuff could get down in there, but like you said, I'm not sure I have too much thickness to work with.
I'm not even going to attempt it until the weather warms up a little. Right now its about 28 degrees F.
Are those heat guns very expensive? Of course, I've learned my lesson to not leave any water in them during the winter again, but do you think the repair will expand and contract too much with the cold next year, and open up again?
Thanks for your help Horton!

Check with your local home depot many of them rent tools.

craig

Thanks Craig,
If they're not too expensive I should probably invest in one, considering how many of these stocktanks I have.
Also Horton........I was wondering about that syringe. Does it just have a little plastic applicator tip on it? I'm thinking if I could get a large bore needle to fit on the tip, I'd be much more likely to get the stuff into the crack.

Cath, you are just throwing good money after bad. You are never going to be able to fix those cracks so that they stay.

Do you really want to take a chance on thinking you have the cracks fixed and then they break and drain out the water and kill your fish?

Do the smart thing and throw those damaged stock tanks away and buy some new ones.

Of course that is not what you want to hear so I doubt you will listen to common sense.

Catfish,
What makes you think I won't listen to things I "don't want to hear"? We all have our reasons for making certain choices. Of course, I don't want my tank to drain in mid July......but the frogs will go to the other tanks, and I'll just move my plants and quickly replace the tanks.......no big deal. If these were in-ground tanks, I wouldn't mess with trying to fix them. I'm a very reasonable person and will do what I think is reasonable, after gathering all the info. I listen to what you have to have, like I listen to everyone else, and then make an informed decision. So I don't see the need to make statements like "I doubt you will listen to common sense".

Cath, you said "I called Rubbermaid and she said that they hadn't been able to find a sealant that would stick to the plastic."

However, you decided that you didn't like that answer so started asking all the people on here what to do.

Obviously a lot of people including Horton knows more than Rubbermaid and you listened to them.

Now why would I question whether you had any common sense? LOL

Catfish, Rubbermaid doesn't want you to know how to repair a broken, or cracked stock-tank. Then they wouldn't get to sell you a new one. Just like my Dell Lap-top, It was broken and Dell wanted to sell me a new one and said mine couldn't be fixed. I took it to a computer person and he fixed it and it has stayed fixed so far at a far less cost than a new one. Glenda

Cath, the syringe has a 1/16" diameter hole in the "needle"' so you don't need to anything else.
I suggested to you to just do the one side.
You make up your mind what side you want to do.
Heat guns are around twenty dollars and are a handy tool to have around for defrosting frozen pipes, etc.
As Glenda said you maybe able to rent one, but it may cost twenty dollars to rent it?
I see that Cathfishsam, has not kept up with the posts again and has come out once more, with his unwarranted comments.
Had he taken the time to read the posts, once again, he would have seen that I in fact, questioned whether that product would work for you.
I also suggested you contact the manufacturer and ask them about it.
It was the manufacturer of the product,I believe, who told you it would work, not me.

"Horton"

Horton,
I was forgetting that the crack was through and through and filling it on one side would hopefully fill the other side. You're definitely right on it being easier from the outside.
I agree with you Glenda.....many times companies don't want to waste any time or effort figuring out ways to fix something that's already been sold. They would always prefer to sell another one.

Cath, why don't you just load those broken stock tanks up and send them to old windy Horton, COD. He is so smart, alot smarter than the people that made the stock tanks originally, so he will fix them for you and send them back post paid.

Now if he can't fix them, he can just send you some new ones.

I had been wondering where Catfish was, figured he had been busy with his coloring. Guess I was rght. Glenda

Glenda, maybe you should try a little coloring some time.

Maybe it would keep you from lusting after old windy Horton? LOL

You're a very curious person Catfish. You seem to have alot of experience, and I would probably give it more weight if you weren't so defensive and rude. Totally unnecessary. We were doing fine without your addition to the thread.
Some of us have an interest in making broken things work again, and not just throwing them out. I don't know why that irritates you so much. Just do things the way you want to do, and we'll do things the way we want, and we'll all be fine.

Catherine, you are a very nice person to be able to respond to Catfish without losing your temper. He is not a nice person. He is rude and always looking for a fight. I have never seen him post on any thread without being insulting to someone. He cannot understand that because of that behavior, no one listens to him except other rude jerks. The only thing to be done is to complain to GW monitors and get him warned and then kicked out when he continues his diatribes.
You can get a heat gun at Harbor Freight fairly cheap if you won't be using it a lot. They go on sale frequently. They cut out when they get too hot so don't be surprised that they need a rest in the middle of your repair. The more expensive ones do it as well. I have one of the Harbor Freight ones and a more expensive one and when one dies I just turn on the other.
You may have a problem getting the crack cleaned out enough for any product to work. Let us know how your attempts work. Does the crack go all the way around the bottom? I have the same type of tank you do and I left the water in it all winter but it did not crack although I expected it to. I am wondering if it did not because I left the quilt batting on top. When I did pull the plug there was only a small amount of water left in it. Curious. Sandy

Catherinet,You got a lot of very useful info on this topic and I hope that something has been helpful for your stock tank problem.I think catfishsam just likes to pull your strings it is his type of humor.I know because I have a son like that.:)

Sandy, wow, you sure know your way around tools. You also seem to know a lot about these type of stock tanks. Maybe Catherinet should give your ideas a try.

christianme, your son sounds like he has a good sense of humor. I bet I would like him.

{{gwi:187394}}

Cath, did you see the other thread about stock-tank repairs that were done by using plastic welding?
Seems that Rubbermaid gave Anne different information than they gave you!
The stock-tanks,from what Rubbermaid informed her, can be repaired by plastic welding!
Link below is to Anne's post.
"Horton"

Here is a link that might be useful: Stock-tank repair thread.