You not only can, but should fert your container plants in the heat of summer. Plants are like children. When they go through a growth spurt, their nutrition needs increase. When they are in a lull, their needs decrease. There are cool season plants that generally die or go (semi)dormant in the summer and any plant that is going dormant shouldn't be ferted, but any plant actively growing needs to have it's nutritional needs met. I suspect that most, if not all of your container plants are warm weather plants that do best in warm temps. If so these will require food during their 'growth spurt' for optimal performance.

Keeping the feeders out won't make them stay all winter but suddenly removing the food source may leave them at a disadvantage. My dominant female seems to feed constanly now and she never goes far. Any time another hummer arrives she is quick to send them packing. I assume that if she stands guard here all day, she may not have an alternate food source.

If your peat moss has fertilizer in it already, hold off. I only use an occasional 1/2 liquid fert on mine. You don't want to get fertilizer burn on the leaves. Right now (after flowering) they are growing roots so high nitrogen ferts won't do much. I recall years ago wondering why nothing much was growing in my pots in July, then I noticed the roots coming out the bottom of the pots a few weeks later. Hostas go thru stages, and after they flower they grow more roots for next year, while the bugs chew on what you have above the soil. -Babka

Let's start with a brief explanation of why you should not be feeding your fish during winter. As the water cools in the autumn, the fish start slowing down in preparation for a period of semi-dormancy. Their digestive and immune systems slow down, and they are not capable of digesting the same types of foods that they can during the warmer months. Koi are particularly susceptible to problems at this time, as they have no stomach to aid in digestion; food passes directly into their small intestines, where it will sit and rot. The ensuing intestinal bacteria can pass into their bloodstream, causing sepsis which will debilitate or even kill the immune-suppressed fish. The general rule of thumb is to slow feeding when the water starts to cool into the upper 50s farenheit, feeding small amounts of low protein food a few times a week, and to quit feeding altogether when the water reaches 50. (A thermometer can be purchased for minimal cost and should be suspended in the pond, about 18 inches deep.) If the fish are still hungry, they'll find algae and other natural delights to sustain them, and these simple foods found in the pond will be more easily digested. The above rule, however, applies only to those of us who live in a climate with cold winters. Those living in climates where the water hovers around the 50-55 degree mark have a challenge. As stated, the fish's immune systems are not working up to par at lower temperatures, however, many "bad" bacteria are still active at these temperatures and can create problems in the weakened fish. In these cases, a small quantity of medicated food fed once or twice a week can help the fish withstand the bacterial attack. (Some people also salt their pond at this time as a prevention against parasites that are still active at lower temperatures. There is good information on the Koivet website on salting the pond.) If you feed your fish during this time, be sure to monitor ammonia levels, as the fish will be giving off ammonia in their waste and the bacteria in your biofilter will not be working at these low temperatures. (When testing winter water, always warm the water sample to room temperature before testing.) As the water warms into the fifties in the spring, you can slowly start feeding again. Beware the false spring syndrome! Many people are excited at the prospect of the first warm spring-like days and the increase in fish activity, and begin feeding, only to find the temperatures plunging into the thirtys within days. *BE PATIENT* and wait until you're sure your water temperatures are stable before you begin feeding. Once the water reaches a stable 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it is a good idea to start feeding with a small amount (two or three times a week for no more than three weeks) of medicated food containing Romet or Terramycin, supplemented by low protein, high carbohydrate foods such as wheat germ, cooked squash, brown bread, dark greens (not iceberg lettuce), and fruits high in Vitamin C. As the temps head into the higher 50s, start adding a bit of low-protein pellets to their diet, and increase feedings to four or five times a week if the fish are hungry. As the water heads into the sixties, start increasing the protein in their food. By the time the water is 65-72 F the majority of their food should be a good quality, high-protein food. Avoid foods that contain corn and other plant proteins as primary ingredients; the protein should be from fish or seafood to ensure the fish are getting the proper balance of amino acids that they need to thrive. Fruits, vegetables, shrimp and other live foods can also be given during the warm, active months of the year. Observe your fish closely during spring warm up, as this is when they are most susceptible to bacterial and parasitic invaders. Do NOT overfeed, and be sure to scoop out any uneaten food so it doesn't foul the water. It is best to err on the side of under-feeding and allow your fish to eat the easily digested algae that is often prolific at this time of year, rather than over feed the wrong foods and cause additional stress to your friends as they make the often difficult spring-time transition. Ronaye, Steve and David