Thanks for the reply!! I personally haven't sprayed any herbicide since they were planted but plants are close to neighbors yard so I'll check with neighbor. thanks

Hi, I had the same problem and yes it will spread to the whole plant and all your tomatoes. It's a Fungus, and it will kill you plants very fast. Thanks to Sharon Love Joy's book Trowel & Error, I found a recipe for diluted milk that saved my plants. I used a 3:1 solution(3 parts water, 1 part milk). First I trimmed off all the affected leaves/branches ( this will make your tomatoes look like scarecrows, but it's the only way)-Dont compost the diseased foliage. Then spray with diluted milk for several days. I do it in the shade but early enough that the plants have time to dry before evening coolness sets in. My plants are saved! I cant believe it worked! BTW I live in coastal (June Gloom) CA, in case you were wondering about the plants locale. Hope it works for you, Ziggy

Had to look that up. It is a dry granular organic rather than a liquid so if you applied it just a week ago it likely won't have had enough time to do anything. That is the problem with granular ferts. They are so slow acting you have to stay ahead of the demand for them. Especially with organics as the soil micro herd has to have the time to digest them so the plants can use them. But when you say "poured" it at the base of the plant you mean literally poured it? And right against the base of the plant? Not a good idea generally. No side dressing, trenching, or mixed in with the soil? I assume the directions give some sort of rate/amount of application per plant or something? But yes, if that is what you are going to use then it needs to be used per the label instructions. That's true for most any supplement but especially true for organics since they are low-dose and slow. Home kit testing of soil is usually a waste of time as the results it gives you depends on the pH of your water so the results are often very mis-leading. As to watering, normally it is more like a once a week exercise and with rain maybe once every 10-14 days, not every other day or even every third day unless you have very poor soil tilth or very shallow beds. Are you just going by the surface rather than sticking your hand down into the soil to check the moisture level at the root level? Are the plants mulched as they should be? So the problems with the plants in the pic could be over-watering, under-fertilization, or nitrogen burn from the blood meal (risky stuff) or, if it continues to spread and if the conditions remain overly wet - grey mold. Be sure to remove any and all damaged parts of the plants and dispose of them away from the garden. Don't leave them on the plants ok? Dave

That's a physiological issue that occurs when your plant takes up water from the soil with dissolved minerals (salts) in it. Some of that water, with salt dissolved in it, makes it to the surface of the leaf. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind the salt it contains as a little white powdery dot. This is also harmless, but could be a signal that the level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil is creeping upward. If you witness it, you might try flushing the soil thoroughly - especially if you've been watering in small sips so the plant doesn't have to deal with soil saturation. That particular way of watering ensures that all salts from your tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the soil where they can create quite a bit of mischief. The salt deposits on the leaves will rub right off with a damp cloth or paper towel. If the dots don't wipe off, suspect another physiological issue called oedema. Oedema Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Increase light levels and temperature * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al