They are difficult to get rid of, especially if you don't use pesticides (which I don't). I spray the entire plant with soapy water then I get out the Q-tips, dip them in diluted rubbing alcohol and go over the entire plant. Those little buggers like to hide, especially in hard to reach areas. It's a good idea to go over the plant with the Q-tips every few days because they will inevitably reappear. I also wash down the affected plants with a strong spraying with the hose often. If you have beneficial insects they really help keep them in check. You also want to make sure that they haven't spread to any plants nearby. Good luck. Karyn

thank you both for your advice greatly appreciated.i am going to try jet spraying with water.rite now in south florida it is dry and we are about to get a cold snap here on wed so im a bit nervous of some of my babies.so it is not very humid rite now.i used to spray systemic for scales but thee product i used was recalled and i havent sprayed in like 5 months now i have spider mites.i spray most of the vines i have growing on my fence but leave some for the caterpillars.i have 14 or so growing in pots next to each other which i havent sprayed since ive had them but found spider mites on them so gotta take care of it...another question...i have passiflora nelsonii about to bloom i suspect 2morow seeing though the cover over it, like triloba, has finally stared to split open and i can see the bud...now weather predicts it is supposed to be like 37 on tues nite is the cold going to effect the bloom...it should get about 39 if they say 37 we are closer to the ocean...hopefully it opens and ill post a picture ...well thank u for the advice once again...have many more questions and pictures to post....

Hi, I wanted to just add to the advice given. It's really the underside of the leaves that must be sprayed - and I mean SPRAYED, as hard as you can without knocking the leaves off. I usually moisten the soil to hold it in place, then wrap plastic wrap around the base of the plant and over the soil, (like the rugs that go around the base of a Christmas tree), then tip the thing upside down in the sink and use the sprayer with the water on full force. I've been told that the life cycle of the mites is about 3 days, so do this every day for 3 days, and then once every three days after that. I've brought some very infested plants back to life doing this. If the plant is too large to hold upside down, take it outside and use the hose with a sprayer nozzle, again spraying the undersides of the leaves as hard as the plant will tolerate. The mites like dry, still, warm air, so even after you plant them outside the mites can still fluorish. Make sure to plant where there will be some air currents coming through. In Washington you shouldn't have to worry too much about dry air! Hope this helps. Lara

I think the point is that just because something dies on transplanting or doesn't seem to be doing as well as we'd like it isn't the end of the season by far. It happens all the time in gardening. New gardeners need to learn to accept that fact. And it in no way means a lost year of gardening. The title of this thread conveys a sense of panic, a plea for urgent , immediate help needed right this minute. Life and death is on the line! Such a situation very rarely exists in gardening and most of us know that. So for purposes of effective communication it's best to save such wording for those times in life when it is truly necessary. Say something along the line of "Help!! My 4 year old just pulled up my tomato plants! Please help me save them!" :-) <do you have any insight into the OP's question about drought stress, or lowering the watering or even giving more water, etc. at certain stages? I'd be very curious to know your input on this. I've always known that you water young plants like crazy, but don't over water older plants so the fruit doesn't crack and it turns out sweet and healthy and doesn't confuse the old plant into producing yet more flowers and young tomatoes...> Well I addressed it in part above but as I said since it is a second hand comment taken out of context I wouldn't put much stock in it either way. And since this is a topic often discussed over on the Growing Tomatoes forum - as is the debate on pruning and topping plants and their effects - I'm not going to rehash all the various opinions given. But my personal position is that do not believe in ever intentionally stressing plants for many reasons. Be that with water or unnecessary pruning/topping. In general both defeat the purpose of growing the plants in the first place and both are done almost exclusively due to a grower's lack of information or for the convenience of the grower, not the plant. Obviously there are exceptions to the pruning issue as it all depends on the (1) the type of plant as determinates are never pruned, (2) plant in ground or in container, (3) spacing used for planting and (4) the methods used to support the plant. But when proper plant spacing and support are used, when adequate soil prep is done on in ground beds, and when proper sized containers are used the only pruning needed IMO is of any branches low on the stem that would come into ground contact and/or any branches showing signs of disease. Anything more is stressful to the plant and should be avoided. And, those devoted to aggressive pruning/topping of all plants regardless of the listed considerations are always amazed to learn that the vast majority of growers do NOT prune. Clearly there are those who disagree with me and that's fine. All I ask is that they don't just jump onto any bandwagon without first trying at least a few of the alternative approaches. As to the water issue, IMO ideal growth and production of tomato plants requires consistent levels of moderate soil moisture at the root level. That doesn't mean wet, it means moist. It doesn't mean daily watering as some are determined to read it. It means checking the moisture level at the root level daily and adding water only if needed. It doesn't mean wet soil surface since you shouldn't be able to see your soil surface anyway if the plants are well mulched as they should be. I don't "water young plants like crazy" as that only stunts root development. They get what they need and no more. And I don't worry about cracking fruit since I always harvest at first or second blush/breaker stage. Cracking, pests, heavy rains, etc. isn't an issue that way so there is no need to withhold water from them at any time. Just some thoughts to consider. Dave