Do business as usual. If the new leaf is dead the plant is history, nothing you can do. If it got warped from heat or whatever and another 'new leaf' follows it, then you'll be fine. Just keep it happy in the normal way and cross your fingers. Nick

The usual advice re. Keikis is do not cut them off the mother plant till there are a couple of inches of roots. Some Phalaenopsis will readily make keikis as well as flowering from spent spikes. Look at the pic. all the Phalaenopsis are grown by one specialist grower. He enters his plants in various spring shows in the Sydney, Australia. At the end of the flowering season he snips the spikes off at the base so that the plants can put energy into growing new leaves and building up strength for the following years blooms.

I sent them a picture, they wanted proof of damage. I planted the damaged one, but it is likely going to die. The top is gone, it had a nice bunch of leaves before the damage. Is Bracken's BB grafted or seed grown? Maybe the graft is what broke? I hope it isn't grafted. I saw the BBB in Florida and liked it. They should sell them here, they are zone 5 or 6 hardy, they are selling a lot of zone 7-8 and tropical in our local Big box stores. We finally have Musa Basjoo here, Zone 6 Banana. Sorry for the rambling.

The tape is to keep the cat away?The lean is no problem. You can correct that when you repot, which won't be quite the chore you think it will be. You can prune and repot at the same time. Pruning on most (by a wide margin) tropical trees should be done in mid to late June (in northern hemisphere) when trees have high levels of energy and their ability to make energy from the sun's light is peaking (Jun 21 in the N hemisphere). Your tree already has a sort of lazy-s trunk, which would be called an 'informal' upright in bonsai. Personally, I think the trunk is much more interesting and natural than trees with ramrod straight trunks. The lean can be corrected simply by changing the planting angle when you repot; or, by pruning the top back to a leaf pointing in the right direction, which would be back toward an imaginary line extending vertically from the point where the trunk exits the soil. This is a Ficus retusa cutting I started in a pill bottle. Your tree has exactly the same growth habit. If I want the top of the tree to grow to the right, I do nothing, because the top leaf and the new branch forming in the leaf axil (crotch) will naturally grow in the direction of the leaf. Keep in mind that phototropism (plants' tendency to grow toward the light) will trump that response. If I want the top of the new tree created to grow left, I simply remove the top leaf by cutting through the trunk just above the leaf growing left. This is called directional pruning. A third way you can change the direction of a branch is by guiding it mechanically. You can tie a strip rag or soft rope to a branch and move it into a new position.The arrangement above is moving the right branch even more to the right with a piece of metal bar. Then, by gradually tightening the wire, the middle branch will be pulled to the right so it's almost centered between the other 2 branches. You could also use a piece of coated copper wire wrapped around the new branch to guide it. This is a cherry branch ^^^ I just cut to show you how easy it is to bend with wire. Repotting is important. If you can't handle the tree now, what will you do after you've potted up another time or two? Root congestion is a slow killer and robs your tree of huge amounts of potential, & the amount of potential stolen increases until there is no potential left. You can easily reduce the pot size and soil volume by half if you repot, so there is nothing but upside associated with it. Prune all branches back so only the 2 leaves closest to the trunk remain, then prune the top back to a leaf pointing in the right direction. It should be about a foot taller than the branch on the right after that branch has been pruned. I just noticed you live in SoCal. You can do the pruning now if you decide to follow my suggestions, and repot any time in June. BTW - this tree shouldn't go in the ground unless you correct the root issues first. There is no question it will be a problem tree if planted out without rootwork. I bare-root and correct root issues of every tree/shrub I plant. I've seen hundreds of trees that don't grow once in the ground or have large sections of dead branches on one side because the owner dropped a rootball in a hole, covered it with soil, and called it good. Al