Just prop them up and hope for the best....and tell the workers that they don't need to ruin nearby gardens. Linda C

So you'll be leaving in a year but you want the lawn to look nice when it sells. Is that correct? And it would not matter what kind of grass you have as long as it's grass and it's green next summer. Right? I moved to a new house last summer. With the fortnightly rains we've had from October through mid June, my lawn is all weeds, too. If you keep them mowed, they can fill in and look like this... It ain't grass but it doesn't look as bad as when I don't mow it. So simply mowing the weeds is one option. What is your budget? Some grasses grow only from sod (can be expensive if you want an instant lawn) or from seed (which takes time to get established and has other issues). You're in an area where just about any grass will work. Sods you might be interested in include Kentucky bluegrass (full sun only), fescue (sun or shade), St Augustine (sun or shade), or hybrid TIF 419 bermuda (full sun only). Those can be put down now or next spring. As for seed you can use Kentucky bluegrass or fescue for northern grasses or common (not hybrid) bermuda seed for a southern grass. The time to seed the northern grasses would be September for you. The time to seed bermuda would be now while the soil is very warm. Bermuda is a higher maintenance grass either in hybrid or common form. Are you willing to water the lawn deeply on a weekly basis from the time you apply until it sells? Some people think grass will just grow and survive from rainstorm to rainstorm. It won't. It needs weekly water to look good and keep the weeds out.

This needs work, but at least the soil isn't in full collapse. What's good is very good, what's bad is very bad. On the up side, every issue can be fixed. I haven't seen you before, so here's the general rundown. I talk about the sections on the report below. At the extreme bottom, I give you recommendations on what to add and when to do it. My dates are only a guideline, but I do recommend allowing 2 weeks and 2 good rainfalls (or irrigations) between soil additions. Of all of the below, boron is the touchiest and the one where it's important not to make a mistake. Boron, in amounts over 2 PPM, is toxic to many plants (although grasses are very tolerant of it). Our target is 0.7 PPM, or 700 parts per billion. On the up side, I build an error margin into the recommendation so even if you make a moderate mistake you'll be fine. For this soil, and given how far it has to go, I'd plan on re-testing next July. With this soil, and these recommendations, I'd expect to see improvement in the grass no later than September of this year. EC 8.0: Most likely a sandy soil with some silt. Your soil will react kind of fast to added materials (usually a good thing), but also require re-testing more often (about every other year) as it'll drift easily. pH 5.0: My stars. Well, we'll work on this under the calcium and magnesium headings, but this isn't going to grow great grass. Or most anything else, although some berry bushes would like it. OM 5.9%: At the top of the Good range, bordering on Excellent. There's no specific need to enhance this, but more organic material would be a good thing to raise your EC a little bit. Sulfur 20: Normal, with plenty of room for me to play. I actually don't need much margin. Phosphorus 266: Optimal, with some margin against usage and leaching. No phosphorus required or desired this year, but you also don't have to specifically avoid phosphorus sources. This number is exactly where it should be, so adding or subtracting small amounts doesn't matter in the slightest. Calcium 32.8%: Deficient. This is setting off your pH problem from above (in part). For this, we use Mag-I-Cal, Encap, or Pennington Fast Lime. Cheaper limes require far more material, contain elements I don't want to add, and take forever to work. Or, another example of you get what you pay for... Recommendations are below. Magnesium 7.7%: Somewhat trim, my personal target is around 12% for this soil. Epsom salts, from your local drugstore in the bath or First Aid section, are used to raise this. Potassium 5.6%: While a touch high, that's not a problem with potassium and I prefer slightly high levels to slightly low ones. Potassium enhances disease resistance, cold and heat tolerance, and so on. Sodium 1.5%: Normal. While I wouldn't like to see this drift upward, it's certainly not a problem. Minor Elements: This is rare, iron is absolutely fine, particularly for fescues which aren't particularly demanding of iron. Most others are perfect, but boron is very low. I mention that next. Boron 0.26: Borderline deficient. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: July 25: Apply 9 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. August 15: Apply 2 pounds per thousand Epsom salt. September 1: Apply 4 tablespoons 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet in Milorganite carrier as outlined above. September 15: Apply 1 pound per thousand Epsom salt. October 25: Apply 9 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. April 15, 2016: Apply 9 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime.

Doing a pre-M regimen just delays things. The weeds seeds will still be in the ground when you stop the preM in order to overseed. That is a common misconception! Pre-emergent does not technically prevent the seed from germinating, it messes with root development thus killing the freshly germinated weed seed and depleting the "seed bank". I've thought about watering lightly and frequently in mid-spring to cause the weed seed to germinate and get killed by the pre-emergent, but there's other consequences to the lawn, like fungus. I would kill grass & weeds, seed, apply Tenacity then wait for that 30 day/2 mow (post germination) window then do Tenacity + Barricade. I concur.