I would prefer you wait til the second week of May to fertilize, especially if you fertilized in October or November. At least let it green up completely before if itching too badly to wait a full month. LOL A shameful reminder..... 1. Get a soil test. Call your nearest county extension service for a test kit and details. It will likely take two weeks for results. If you need to apply sulfur, lime, or any other amendment per test recommendation (that is not applied in Step 6), you can do it after seeding if you don't get results back in time. 2. Apply that "R" word stuff and again one week after the first application. You can seed the lawn one week after the second app. 3. Scalp it down 4. Rake it up 5. Core aerate (or cheat with Nitron A-35) 6. Fertilize 7. Sow seeds 8. Topdress 1/4 inch layer compost, peat moss, or clean straw (weed-free). 9. Irrigation schedule water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week. Starting off, the schedule supplies roughly 1/4 inch of water, then increases that amount while decreasing frequency of application at the same time. Like practically everything that concerns lawn care, this schedule is a general guideline and should be modified to accommodate your specific conditions. The lengths of time should be modified if you have an automatic sprinkler system since that will not take as long to provide adequate moisture. So, decrease amount of water (time) but maintain frequency as is. The tuna cans test is recommended. If it is still especially warm, you may want to irrigate 3 times a day (10-15 minutes if necessary) for that first couple weeks. Your objective is to keep the upper 1 inch of soil moist and not let the seeds dry out. Baby the grass for the rest of year. Once the seeds begin to sprout, don't walk on it if at all possible. First mowing is when the new grass reaches two inches. *************** Remember that? Not to scold, but the words were to be taken literally and seriously. Just walking on it was potential damage by itself (even while dormant), but dogs don't walk like we do. They scratch, dig into, and rip whatever surface is underfoot. But the lawn was not a surface, at least not yet. While the grass had developed a root system, it was a very shallow one. I don't think it a predictable conclusion. Whether it recovers remains to be seen. If you have seeds left over, I'd get them down just to be safe. Give it a few more days first to see if it will green up. You can use Tupersan pre-m though it is very expensive. Scotts has a Siduron and fertilizer combo.

ceejay, I've overseeded the same KBG you mentioned. The part of your plan that concerns me is leaving the existing Rye grass in place. Research done at the University of Colorado indicates that rye grass may be allopathic to Kentucky Bluegrass. This is an excerpt: Despite cumulative seeding rates as high as 42 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet over a 21/2-year period, no Kentucky bluegrass could be found in the intact areas of any of the plots. In fact, the only bluegrass to be found was in divoted areas that had been overseeded when the divots were still open. It was obvious that slit-seeding Kentucky bluegrass into healthy perennial ryegrass fairway turf, even with the use of a PGR to suppress ryegrass growth, was a totally ineffective method for introducing, much less converting, bluegrass into these fairways. It should be noted that we did see bluegrass seed germination in the fairways. Within a couple of weeks of seeding, bluegrass seeds were germinating in the seeder slits (approximately 1/4-inch depth). And some seedlings, although spindly and weak, did emerge from the slits. But the seedlings did not mature into healthy adult plants. Though discouraging, the results were not totally unexpected. Observations over the years by turf extension specialists, USGA agronomists, and many golf course superintendents have noted the general futility of overseeding bluegrass into established ryegrass turf Here's a link to the report. Where do you live in Pennsylvania?

Greetings, Sorry but everyone here is confusing me. Are you saying mix the seeds in with a starter fertizler then spread? I looked up Milorganite and it says that it is an organic fertilizer. Don't I need a turf crawling with microbes and living organisms to use an organic fertilizer? If so then I would have to put around two yards of compost on my lawn first so I have microbes that break down the proteins in organic fertilizer which in turn releases the nitrogen, no? Wouldn't any Starter fertilzer high in Phos and Nitr also work? Can anyone answer my other question about the seeding rate for my particular Mix? Is it 2lbs per 1,000 sq feet or 3lbs or 4lbs? Shoud i use all 6 lbs for 2,200 sq feet or use 5 and save a lb for overseeding any spots that don't germinate so well- Thanks, Dan

Yeah, be carefull with the mowing. Hopefully you can wait until the new grass is 2-3 " before you mow, but that may not be possible. Make sure those blades are sharp so they don't tug on the new grass. Also, what's worse than the tires rolling is the suction the mower deck creates. If you can, mulch mow, block off the mower outlet. Your blades might be the wrong kind also if you are not already set up for mulch mowing. Some blades are designed to lift and blow the clippings...BAD for the new seedlings. And with all of that weight, be real gentle when turning, the fron tires can "push" and disturb the seed bed.