It doesn't really sound like the 'slime mold/dog vomit' fungus, but even if it was - all plants live with thousands of species of soil fungi and form beneficial symbiotic relationships with many of them, so the odds are extremely high that it is harmless. The likely reason for your plant's struggles is over-watering. You run a very real risk, though, of the plant being severely damaged by photo-oxidation (sunburn) if you took it outside & plopped it in full sun. I suggest you move it to shade immediately, until it's acclimated to the brighter light. After a few days to a week, you can move to to sun if you like. The plant will thank you. ;o) Sure - go ahead & repot it now - it's a good time. Make sure you use a soil that will drain well. Adding an additional 4-5 parts of fine fir bark (easy to find in your area) and 1 part perlite to a commercially bagged soil will yield a soil your kalanchoe will like. There are better (homemade) soils if you're interested, but this one keeps it simple. Good luck. Al

what i would do to be on the safe side is change up your soil mix a little to something a little more coarse maybe, and if you repot it, dont put into a pot that is alot bigger then the one it is in now. At the nursery here, yellowing of leaves on our kalanchoes means too much water. That sucker will also bloom for ya if you put a dose of food into it every once in awhile, and let it dry out completely between waterings, we found that, that kind of stress helps it set flower clusters, oh and make sure it gets plenty of light. In phoenix ours went out of bloom, so we put it in a shade house with 70% shade cloth, watered when completely dry and fed em as well, a month and a half later they started to form clusters of buds. I would say when you re-plant that you dont disturb the roots too much, if you do, you will promote rot of the broken exposed roots (not saying you will for sure get that) but thats the major thing that kills succulents when repotting, so be gentle. Another thing, rocks at the bottom of a pot is probably not the best thing either. I would go to your local nursery and see if they sell a formulated cactus mix, this should allow quick drainage, and the soil shouldn't stay too wet between waterings, it will also cancel the need to put rock on the bottom of pots which just hinders drainage. Google around for different soil recipes.. i mentioned in another post here that with my succulents, i use pumice, coir, and sand (not play sand). I hope that babbling helped somewhat :\

CG, firstly, about the possible offense thing, in previous threads, if someone talks anything negative about organic anything, the eco-nuts go postal. For example, one poster made a thread asking about what soil mix would be best for something, and when gritty mix was suggested, with the use of Foliage Pro 9-3-6 fertilizer, the original poster went off the deep end, reading the riot act about how bad synthetic fertilizer and soil is. So bascially, some people looking for advice aren't always looking for MY advice, or some other people's advice. But, thankfully, that's not you. Good, now that I got that out of the way... Hoovb makes a great point about moisture loss in your climate. Although I think he/she might have threw a cheapshot at Wisconsin. I still would advise you against the use of anything organic, and especially against peat moss. I grew in it for ages, and I never rotted anything, well, to death anyways. But, upon repotting, the peat moss mix turned into a nasty sludge, and the center and bottom of the rootballs were always gone, presumably rotted away. The healthy roots were always near the edge, where the mix dried faster. Since switching to gritty mix, I find that I have majorly healthy rootballs. To add to the luster of gritty mix, it lasts literally forever. Mind you, I do not use any pine or fir bark in mine, just turface and grit. If you use bark, then it does have a life to it, but more in the range of 5 years, verses the 6 months you get out of peat based mixes. So, should you choose to go gritty, you may want to add more turface to compensate for your dry climate. I use a 1:1 ratio of turface and grit, and I water about once a week indoors. For plants that are outdoors in summer, it varies, but most are every other day, but that all depends on how big/small the pot is, if the pot is jammed with roots, and if it's super hot. Windy, hot days also drain the moisture. Joe

nss213 - Spots develop on the older tomato leaves for all sorts of reasons, some bad, but are most no problem other than to indicate tissue death due to stress. But it is the over-all health of the plant that should be the focus so that it can resist disease and pest problems. And with your plants the severe yellowing should be the primary concern as it indicates a more serious problem than the spots I see in your photos. While it is possible that some of the spots in your photos could be signs of Early Blight it is not possible to say for sure from any of the photos. Removing the affected foliage and spraying them with a fungicide sure wouldn't hurt them, but it is the nutrient ad water issues that really need to be addressed. They are growing in a somewhat stressed situation already from the over-crowding and the appearance of the soil condition in your pics so providing them with sufficient nutrients in a form the can use will go a long way to improving their situation. When one is new to growing tomatoes and a problem develops the inclination is always to jump to the conclusion that it is a disease. But 8 out of 10 times the problem is actually related to the growing conditions rather than any disease issue. When the growing conditions are less than ideal to begin with then those odds go up even more. Hope this helps. Dave