Nothing. Some catts bloom from dried sheaths. My C. luteola does this...

Thanks Clint. I wish I could post a picture here but, these 3 sheaths are not dry, but brown -almost black. I can't imagine any life hidden in them, however, you are keeping my hope alive.

crispy brown and dry is normal for some, and some will bloom from them the following year. But black, or soft might be a problem (rot)......

There were a couple of recent posts about dried sheaths - if you're interested it was just a couple of days ago. You should be able to still find ithem.
Marci

Black, soggy sheaths may be an indication of rot from being too wet or too cold.
What are the temperature and humidity ranges in your GH during the winter?
It is possible that cold water has collected at the pockets between the sheath and leaves. In winter, this would be enough to kill the flower buds, even in a GH.

I had the same problem like you before but I read a book and it said that when a sheath starting to turn yellow, you should cut at the top of the sheath and open it a little bit so the bud inside the seath can't be rot. I did try and it worked.
Thu

wetfeet, temperatures in winter range from 6o min. to 80 deg. Humidity is on average 50%.
I do not have a mister at the time but hand mist on very warm days. Not so sure if misting is such a good idea.

By oversight I did leave the door open during the night recently and the temps must have dropped down to 50 deg.or less. I was sick when I noticed in the morning. Could this one night have caused the sheaths to die?

As you probably have noticed, I am new at growing Catts.

I also had one Catt which had 2 big fat buds. I noticed over time that they turned from green to pinkish, then dark purple and later fell off. After a closer look I noticed the stem inside the sheath had become soft. I cut the stem, plus the top portion of the pseudo bulb off, rinsed with HP, then dusted with cinnamon. What else could/should I have done?
I suppose, the reason for the rotting was water getting into the sheath?
It is so disappointing to have wasted a year of work!

H.

Its such a heartbreaker, I know how you feel. The answer is to grow lots of Catts so at least you have those 'long awaited flowers.' Choose Catts which should bloom twice a year, so it gives you another try. I have the best luck with the Spring bloomers. Although, light and heat are not as good in winter, I find I have less problems with fungal or bacterial problems with the Spring, Summer bloomers. Although, I get lots of sheaths going in fall, I lose more. I think the sudden change from outdoors to indoors affect the winter blooms.

Next time, try cutting the top off the sheath to let air in. I started doing that last fall and had better results.

Hang in there,

Jane

Thanks Jane for lending a shoulder to cry on.
What kind of twice-blooming catt would you suggest? I think mine are all Spring bloomers. And..., thanks for the tip of cutting the sheath open a 'bit. Is it important to keep moisture out? Misting would have to stop then.
Since I easily overwater, I put them all into pumice stone last summer and they seem to grow well in it.
What kind of medium do you like best?

H.

Many cattleya species like mossaie will make a pseudobulb and sheath in the summer or fall and then lie dormant until spring. The sheath will turn brown and dry. Then a bud will form in the early spring. Sometimes slitting the sheath (with a sterile blade) and opening it up will help. Sometimes a sheath will yellow. Again, you can cut it open and remove it allow air into the crown. If the sheath becomes black, it more than likely rotted and must be removed to prevent black rot from forming in the leaf axil and into the leaf and bulb.