As I just stated to someone else who previously bought a mail order Azalea, I would keep it in a window where it will get the most direct sun light for now. You will also need to place it outside (once the last frost date has passed for your area) other wise it will slowly diminish in vigor and eventually die. Make sure its outdoor location has sun in the morning but shaded in the mid afternoon when the sun is the hottest. Most people who get these types of floral gifts like azaleas gardenia's etc.. don't they belong outside and then wonder why their plants die on them after a number of months, chalking it up to the shrub being hard to care for, which isn't true. I've had a bonsai azalea for years. As for watering and fertilizing here is what will be needed. When watering make sure the soil is almost completely dry (not completely) before watering. This will be a skill that might take a little while to perfect but can be done by sticking the tip of your finger (about and inch) in the soil near the edge of the pot. when it feels almost completely dry with just a slightest ting of moisture its time to water. A beginners method is to place a chop stick in the soil near the edge of the pot, when it looks dry its time to water. As for fertilizing i recommend using a well balance formula meant for acid loving plants as azaleas need a soil of a low PH to be happy. Using a liquid fertilizer you should fertilize during the summer once every other week. If this will be your method don't use Miricle-Gro Miracid fertilizer which is most easily found at hardware stores/nurseries as it will burn the roots easily, which will damage and possibly kill the azalea. I recommend using an organic type as it will make burning the roots a lot harder. Organics as refereed to in the name are made of natural chemical components while non-organic types are made from chemical compounds. Slow release organic types are even more preferable if you want a more care free fertilizer as it will only need to be applied then once a month. You can find some good acid granular (slow release) fertilizers on eBay. As for keeping it long term (for years) Keep in mind that it will most likely need a dormant period to rest during winter. On exception their are some semi-tropical Azaleas, but am almost definite that isn't your case. If you are truly up for the challenge of keeping it alive for years to come it will take As a means for every day care and long term survival I recommend you read some bonsai books (which can be easily be acquired from your local library) on how to properly care or your azalea. I also recommend doing some online search for the specific azalea you have seeing as some have different needs than others. Good luck -Mike

Thanks, for the replys guys. I'm talking TTTF, full sun, water heavy once a week (if needed), and soil with some clay in a fenced in back yard. In the last 3 years, I've overseeded/reseeded heavy with Southern Gold, Southern Belle, Rebel III mix, Rebel IV mix, Exeda, Scotts Pure Premium, and Lesco Transition. I core aerate 2-3 times a year. I fertilize 3 times in the fall and once in the spring and have moved to mostly organic stuff, as I focus more now on feeding the soil rather than feeding the grass. I don't bag, and I mow high (3-5 inches -- I like it tall) depending on how the grass is doing, time of year, etc. I've been adding bags of composted manure and humus here and there in the low spots for the last year. This year when I started seeing signs of fusarium blight popping up, I put down some of the Scotts Fungus Control, and it stopped it in its tracks. I've had to do that twice. I'm being vigilant, because conditions here are right for another flare up. I've also got some Eagle 20EW but haven't used it yet. I hate putting these kinds of things down, because I think they kill beneficial bacteria and fungi that help the organic fert do its job. But, I'd rather go chemical than end up with dirt and dead grass instead of a lawn. Most of my research indicates that what I'm fighting is a soil borne disease that is exasperated by soil agitation and hot/dry conditions. Me and my family not using the lawn isn't going to happen, so my current plan is to cover what I feel are the trouble spots with compost in the fall. With all that said, what I want to know is if there are any other people who have been through the same thing and gotten it under control, and if so, how (and, what grass seed seems to be the best for something like this)? The NTEP site is great, but I'm looking for practical implementation not theory. Thanks.

First let me say that it was pleasure meeting you, Marin. and that I really appreciated you dropping by with one of your "monster mangoes" for my staff and I to try. Here are pictures of the other fruits we tried. From August 2, 2011 There is an Abiu from my tree and a few mangoes including Maha Chanook (the second to last one of the season on any of my trees), San Felipe (first time being tasted, Neelum, and Pettigrew (which ended up in the mulch pile as being picked too soon). Unfortunately, as a result of leaving very early in the morning to head to a court hearing, I grabbed only some of what I intended to bring to the office. There was a ripe Keitt at home I didn't find while groping around in the dark garage on my way out. I was able to send you home with some unripe mangoes which included Keitt, Golden Lippens and Valencia Pride. Turning to the tasting, I do believe that your "monster mango" is a Keitt. However, I must confess that I am not 100% sure. Only about 95%. The reason you may ask? Your mango was one of the best tasting mangoes of the season and frankly tasted much better than my recollection of Keitt in previous years. It is difficult to remember how a particular mango tastes, from year to year, especially since mangoes can vary from year to year in flavor. In reviewing my Fairchild book of mangoes, Keitt is rated Good to Excellent on the Poor, Fair Good, Excellent scale. I planted it out many years ago because it was a very nicely flavored mango and was big, late and disease resistant. I haven't experienced a tasting where Keitt fared as well as this one did. In this tasting, it compared favorably with Maha Chanook and was the felt to be the winner of the taste test by at least a couple of my well experienced mango tasting staff. So.....maybe this is something different.....a seedling, lets say? I wouldn't think that to be likely. The reasons are that the mango looks like a Keitt, is maturing in the season of a Keitt, and has excellent characteristics of a Keitt (at its best and includes meatiness, seed size and fiber content, or lack thereof). Seedlings would tend to be different in some regard....especially with regard to fiber. This is the single most common difference between mango cultivar parents and their progeny. The genetic variability that comes with all sexual reproductions of mango by seed are likely to include some increased fiber. This mango was no more fibrous than a Keitt...or, I guess more correctly said, it was just as fiber free as a Keitt. In any case, this mango was obviously grown on a tree that was very, very happy. I will be interested to find out how my Keitt, which I gave to you, Marin, tastes and appears as compared to your mangoes. Truth be told, I haven't eaten any of my Keitts this year as of yet. I do have one in the refrigerator and will try it tonight. Stay tuned for further analysis. Harry

Manor View Farm in Balto Co, has sugar maple in their inventory. You will have to have your contractor place the order and pick them up. Someone like Stadler Nursery should have them (many locations) Waverly Farm nr Frederick -wholesale- We live in Northern Maryland, right on the PA line...... well that narrows it down to about 240 miles, so I will assume you are in the eastern part where I am. If you want to try the retail route consider: Valley View Farm, Sun Nursery, Homestead Gardens, in MD Merrifield's or Betty's Azalea Ranch in Fairfax Co, its a matter of calling around and shopping around, ask when they get their fall shipments in. Below is an interesting cover from our state's promotional literature. The sugar maples are a cultivar because they are all so uniform. I can't say which one, maybe 'Green Mountain' Location is Buckeystown Pike south of Frederick.