2,4-d is not a fungicide, it is an herbicide. If it worked against fungus, that would be news to the lawn community. Not sayin' it won't work, just saying it would be news. Is it an illusion or is this area slightly mounded up from the area to the left? If it is mounded up, then drainage would be better from that area allowing it to dry out more between watering/rainfall. That could easily cause a problem in one spot versus another. The obvious issue would be not watering deeply, once per week, throughout the summer. But then why would you have any grass if drought was the problem??? If you have not used any organic fertilizer in the past 3 years, I would suggest you do that to improve the health of your soil. Healthier soil can fight off disease better than sterile or deficient soil. The one I like for this year (due to cost) is alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). You can get a 50-pound bag at your local feed store for around $12-$14. If this is a first time in 3 years, your first app should be 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. I would follow that up in a month with a second app at 20 pounds per 1,000. 20 pounds is the normal rate, but if your soil is not already sort of healthy, it will take longer for the alfalfa to decompose and it can smell a little sour for awhile. If you have doubts that alfalfa is a fertilizer, here is a picture posted here at GardenWeb by mrmumbles in 2011. He had fertilized the spot with alfalfa in mid May and took the picture in mid June. Note the improved color, density, and growth. Sometimes a lawn with poor soil will crash under repeated applications of chemical fertilizers. The occasional use of organics seems to keep the crashing from happening. Quite often homeowners will try the alfalfa and stop synthetics altogether. There does not seem to be any problem with a continual organic regimen. I've been doing it since 2002. If you think the problem is a fungal disease, the other thing you can try, on top of the alfalfa, is to apply ordinary, ground corn meal at the same rate of 20 pounds per 1,000. Results on this seem to vary, but it has worked for me every year. If I did not use corn meal I would not have a lawn at all. In my yard it stops the progress of the disease immediately and allows the new grass to come up disease free. If you are reluctant to use fungicide, and I completely agree, then corn meal is the only alternative we think we know about. Like I said, results with corn meal are all over the map but it works for me. I would not try the corn meal until after the 10 pound app of alfalfa. Corn meal is also an organic fertilizer, so it will prolong the effect of the organics. If you normally winterize with a chemical fertilizer after the grass stops growing, you can still do that whether you go with a full organic routine or not. Lots of people who are otherwise all organic will do the final app of the year with a chemical fert like urea.

I am one who uses clover and grass successfully. I have nutrient poor sandy soil and when I moved in, the lawn area had nothing but weeds and no grass, but mostly just eroded sand, not much different then you'd find in a beach. Initially I tried compost and such but found that it just leached and dried out. I finally read about permaculture, and tried planting white clover and grass together. It worked perfectly, to the point I have a lush lawn that requires no fertilization, stays green in summer, and I don't even water due to a limited well. Yes, the grass will go dormant during heat and drought, but the clover stays green, and the lawn grass is actually quite responsive once the rains come again. This combination also competes very effectively against weeds, and is a very low maintenance lawn. In fact, the clover seems to provide enough nitrogen, that I am able to collect my grass to use for composting leaves for my vegetable gardens, with no need to leave clippings on. Also, the more healthy the lawn gets, the grass tends to take over from the clover and finds a healthy balance, where it's mostly grass. After living with a traditional clover/grass lawn for several years, I'm not sure why anyone would want to get rid of it. A clover/grass lawn is attractive, and is nice to walk on. We really need to get over our skewed thoughts of what an ideal lawn should look like.

If there is nothing more to guide you and the manufacturer will not provide any assistance then you will need to measure a 1,000 square foot area, put 12 pounds of the product in the spreader, and try various settings until you find what works. When using Milorganite in a Scotts drop spreader I use a setting of 16, as suggested by the manufacturers.

Generally with organic fertilizers you don't have to worry about burning. But this product includes blood meal, which I have read can burn if over-applied, though it is not clear to me exactly how. How large is the area that you spread it over, and how many pounds do you have left? Was it a 29 pound bag? If you want to do something right away, watering heavily won't hurt the slow release parts of the fertilizer, and may help dilute the blood meal. I'm sure it helps with synthetics, and I would guess it would with bloodmeal too, but I am just not certain since I don't understand how blood meal burns.