The orchid in the picture a couple of posts above at one time was called Aerides vandarum. It is very cold tolerant but difficult to bloom. But that is the thing here, without a name it is hard to give advice, one thing is certain, lots of light is a must for all the "vandaceous" with terete foliage. The plant in the original post is horribly over potted, in fact it might be better grown on a tall mount.

Quoting from Wikipedia "The Oncidiinae is a subtribe within the Orchidaceae that consists of a number of genera that are closely related. This subtribe consists of about 70 genera with ..." So your orchid could be an Oncidium or an Oncidium crossed with something else or even crossed with multiple Genera. You might get an id if it is something that has been mericloned (copied) and many copies have been sold. An example of this is Oncidium Sharry Baby 'Sweet Fragrance'. But usually the numbers are against you getting an id. The number of registered hybrids and the variation within each crossing make the task difficult.

It's an epiphyllum, probably an epiphyllum hybrid (which typically contain other, similar genera, including Disocactus, Pseudorhipsalis and Selenicereus). These are commonly referred to as 'orchid cactus', but they are neither a true cactus nor an orchid :-) They are a semi-tropical succulent related to cactus that produces large, very showy flowers. They do produce an edible fruit (NOT a dragon fruit) but these are scarce on indoor plants. They are epiphytes, meaning they take advantage of other, larger plants - like trees - as a support system, like most tropical orchids do, and do not require soil in their native habitat. For home gardeners, they grow perfectly well in a good quality, fast draining potting mix. Unless you live in a semi-tropical climate or certainly a frost free zone (Z 10 or higher), these are not hardy outdoor. And they are pendant in habit, with those long branching structures cascading over the side of a container to often a significant length. One normally grows them in some sort of hanging basket structure or on a tall plant stand to show off the plant and its long branches to best effect. btw, the flowers form at the tips of these flattened leaves/branches so any pruning should be done cautiously. There are scads of websites on epis and if you do a bit of searching, they will provide all the growing info you need (rather than my repeating it all here!!). I find they are very easy to grow and will reward you with some gorgeous - if short-lived - flowers. I've got one setting flower buds now after being moved back indoors from its summer holiday location. Here's just one example of an epiphyllum website but do not stop with just one!! And be sure to check out any that show photo galleries of the blossoms - they are incredible!!

PRO AVOID MISINFORMATION tapla As a younger man, I worked in a lab for The Jergens Company, developing hand cleaners and hand creams. Even though Ivory AND Dawn dish detergents work hard to leave potential purchasers with the impression they're miraculous unctions so gentle to hands they should be applied straight from the bottle at least thrice daily, they are very phytotoxic to plants for the reasons I noted above. And it's not just the detergent that's toxic. The chemical dyes, and perfumes they contain are toxic; and the ingredient methylisothiazolinone is extremely toxic to aquatic life, as well as a skin sensitizer/irritant that causes dermatitis ........ so just how gentle CAN these dish soaps actually be to hands? Extremely high levels of sodium in sodium laurel sulphate and sodium laureth sulfate (surfactants) both contain Na (sodium) at levels toxic to plants. Vegetable soaps from natural oils (like palm and coconut oil) that contain long chain potassium fatty acids are the least offensive/toxic to plants (Safer's and other brands of insecticidal soaps), and much, much different than dish soaps. These long chain potassium fatty acid soaps are very effective on mites, but if mites are the only concern, they'd be overkill. All you need for mites is a thorough spritz of 1-2 parts of water and 1 part rubbing alcohol (the 70% isopropyl stuff) every 4 days to keep mites under control. Avoid misinformation