This question is driving me crazy because I haven't been able to figure out a query for what should be an easy answer. Here's an approach I find helpful: 1 - Search for the proper term for the characteristic with something like "retain leaves in winter" (Wikipedia page for "marcescence" shows up as 4th or so item). 2 - Perform an image search with that term; "marcescent trees" in this case. If lucky, you'll find BOTH a photo that matches what you're trying to identify AND a link to a website that includes a name. Here is a link that might be useful: Image search for marcescent trees

Thanks, basic! I sure do like them! I'm contemplating replacing my viburnum dentatum row and replacing it with these. Interesting to note that nearly all of the individuals I encountered in the woods were single stemmed. I did come across one in the open and it was more multi stemmed than the ones in shade. Weird. And OMG the smell is out of this world good...

I got my Desert Willow at the Moonlight Madness sale at TLC three years ago. Its not one of the fancy ones, it had no label and was marked down to $3.00 in the cruddy looking, damaged and less than perfect plants section, I call that the Hospital and its where I head first. The weird thing about it is the leaves are very fragrant perfuming the whole front yard at times and people who walk by comment on that along with the looks of it. Smells strong, like a woodsy type of potpourii. I posted this on the Texas site last year and no one had ever run into that so I figured my little native looking, not so fancy DW type has done quite well even if its not as fancy as the one up the street. Its still blooming, has been since early in the season. The seeds sprout easily so if you see one around there with pods you could try that, these trees grow fast. I thought of a few shrub/small tree understudy ideas. 'Forest Pansy' redbud is a pretty tree as an understudy because it gives good color in an otherwise green situation. It has huge deep red leaves and blooms heavy, even on the trunk. Cotinus coggygria aka Purple Smoke Tree, needs at least half day sun but its gorgeous especially when its 'smoking' and looks like its covered in purple haze. It has round red leaves that smell really good when crushed & is well behaved. Three Leaf Sumac aka Fragrant Sumac. I saw several mature ones at the History Museum here in OKC, they looked great and were covered in fuzzy berries. I now have 2 babies cuz I fell in love with it and its tough. Turns red in fall. I'd plant smooth sumac if I had a big space....... but wouldn't dare in a small one. Ribes aureum (Golden Currant) Shepherdia argentea (Silver Buffaloberry) Robinia neomexicana (New Mexico Locust--blooms pink but it suckers) Blackhaw viburnum--- I want one bad. I got a Ninebark but its not doing so good. Obviously I need to move it to a more moist spot. Mine is Physocarpa 'Coppertina' and I really would like to get that nice pumpkin color in my landscape however currently its nearly leafless from drought since its in spot where trees suck the ground dry. I believe as a rule they do quite well in Oklahoma and there's several different cultivars with very nice leaf colors to choose from. I just came in from setting out several starts of the regular type of Nandina I got to dig out from a big plant next door, even though its not native and some purists would scream bloody murder, they will grow in dry shade, have red berries and colorful foliage, they've been planted there previously and did just fine. Come fall or spring its full sun in that dry difficult corner and anything will look better than a nearly bald, half dead Ninebark. I'll dig him up & move him when he goes dormant, poor guy.

Small woody invasive species I pull out by the roots with a large set of pliers. There are also tools designed for pulling woody plants typically called something like a weed wrench that can be used for things a bit larger. If you cannot pull or dig it out, cut it to the ground after which you have a couple choices. For Japanese knotweed and larger woodies, I cut down and paint stumps with a brush strength herbicide. I am not an indiscriminate user of lawn and garden herbicides, but in this instance I think it is the lesser of two evils, and since I have more than 100 acres with lots of invasives, this is my only hope of removal. I have researched to find what won’t stay in the soil and wear protective equipment. Painting on cut stems uses less herbicide and in a very targeted fashion. Alternatively, cut them to ground level and then religiously check for sprouts every week or so. Remove the sprouts. Continue this for a season or two, or for Japanese knotweed, it might be longer. This will use up the plant’s stored resources without allowing it to replenish. But it only works if you are very, very consistent. IMO removing invasives from public land that adjoins your property is totally reasonable. But as I said above, don’t remove until you have a positive ID.