Even a dwarf needs to be at least an inch in diameter before you should let it produce a single fruit in my opinion. I have tons of experience, but unfortunately not with fully dwarfing rootstock (M9). I manage a lot of M26, however, which are on the vigorous side of dwarf and they can runt out if they are allowed to produce when still very small. I wouldn't remove the fruit- I'd remove the flowers. Where you top, which isn't usually necessary with a fully dwarfing tree as I understand it, is where you want to produce your second tier of branches. I'd say 2' above last branch on first tier. However this kind of structure isn't needed for dwarfs and reading commercial guidelines it seems best method is only removing oversized branches- more than half the diameter of trunk at point of attachment. Very little pruning is needed for dwarfs and almost none while training. Any pruning should be done in summer with the thumb and finger to steer growth without setting tree back.

Never was able to see the actual photos but fruitnut's advice sounds right to me. With Goldrush you are best off maintaining a surplus of scaffolds even when it starts bearing. Gradually thin them as tree fills out with secondary branching. Goldrush usually needs to be coaxed to spread as it bears lots of fruit on thin wood, weighs the branches down and they loose vigor. The vast majority of varieties I manage are best pruned as little as possible until trees start bearing, generally removing nothing but oversized (diameter-wise) branches. For some spurry and precoscious varieties (Goldrush, Braeburn, Empire, Ark Black) a 2-1 ratio is best but more vigorous varieties like Fuji, Northern Spy, and Baldwin are better pruned by eliminating all branches more than a third the diameter of the trunk at point of attachment. Fuji will bear earlier IME if you thin surplus scaffolds before it starts bearing because it is so vigorous and weedy that it doesn't bring adequate light to its spurs. Summer pruning helps with trees like this also. I'm talking about the third or 4th year of a semi-dwarf to standard, vigorous, not yet bearing tree.

I started gardening last year and was able to keep my cucumber plant, french marigold, volunteer grape tomato plant, and cantaloupe alive. I also planted two plum trees that I found on clearance. I want to see what else I can keep alive. I've started sugar snap peas, bell pepper, wild flowers, string bean, and banana pepper in a seed starter tray inside. Can anyone spare any seeds so I can continue experimenting and trying new things?

Thanks, everyone. Carol, yes, I see that you commented based on my incomplete description. Good guess. NHBabs and macranthos, I'm sure you nailed it. There used to be a red oak close by and there are red oak (Q. rubra) everywhere and seedlings take root from the many acorns. I might have put a bit of round-up on some of the obstinate wild blackberry canes, and that could account for the damaged red oak. I'm going to yank it soon along with some other unwanted volunteers. Ditto the Vinca minor that I want to eradicate. I think I will mechanically remove things. Thanks again. I appreciate your time and talent. This forum is amazing.