If you have a healthy plant which won't flower, you need to research your plant and learn what you need to do. Phals need good light, need a cool down in the fall. Please join your local Orchid Society or learn online how to grow this plant. Your leaves look very dark which suggests the plant is not getting enough light. It needs about 6 weeks of cooler temps in the fall to initiate spikes. Give it stronger light and put it in a cool room. Use lamps if you don't have a window in the cooler room. You want at least a 15 degree temp drop over 6 weeks to spur the plant to flower. Light and temps are your problem. Jane

I'm having trouble viewing your photos (my computer problem, not yours) but your orchid appears to be a hard-cane, phal/dendrobium. I don't think it is a nobile type but couldn't enlarge your photo. Your plant likes high light, warm and dry. Eastern sun is not enough. It should not be treated like a Phal. Move it to stronger light, only water when dry. Do not over water. It is normal for them to lose their leaves on their oldest canes. I can't tell from the photo, but new growths usually appear from the base of the last growth. I only fertilize lightly when they are making new growths. Good luck and I apologize for my computer! Jane

The ones on the left and right are phalaenopsis, also known as moth orchids. The one in the middle looks like some kind of miltassia shelob. It is a little difficult to tell without seeing the leaves. You should find some culture notes online for these plants for your general area. In general, the phalaenopsis are pretty forgiving and you can learn how to care for those through trial and error. They just need decent light (avoid direct sunlight, although I have at least one phalaenopsis that loves direct sunlight for 4-6 hours a day, so I can't tell you that that's an absolute rule, just probably not something to start with). The most important thing is not to overwater. If your phals are in sphagnum moss, wait until it is almost completely dry before watering again. The miltassia I'm not sure about--I have one that is doing quite well but I've only had it since mid-summer, so the jury is still out.

I agree mikerno_1micha ! Plus that info you gave on the dried root makes sense !! As something like that happened with my last mini orchid , the roots dried out wet spagh and my heater on high aniliated there roots, it did not rot them they were green and shriveled and I pondered why the uptake of water was slow bout time I tried to recover with soaking it was too late crown rot settled in, but your explaination make sense! Its own Dry covering was suffocating the desicated root. Its interesting the problem is orchid roots are long and wirey and keeping consistant moisture to them is key. Thats what the velamin does naturally supplying warmth moisture and nutrition 24/7 as long as we give them drenching. And as far as the manure I know this is true, orchid are heavy eaters not through the fertilizers we give them which causes complications, though it works but through the more organic matter as they would get lieing on a tree, or rock and water way, debree , old leaves, manure from passing animals, dead insects, fish bone meal etc . I learned this when a fruit fly landed on a dendrobium seedling I had growing in water culture and died ,the seedling had a growth spurt and was gleaning like thanks for the protein ! I kid you not And all evidence of fruitfly was gone I never looked at that orchid the same way again. Aparently they get hardy diets in the wild feeding off many things gaining nutrients to survive.