regraded around fruit trees on a slope

12 years ago

Recently moved into a fixer upper place. The property is on a hill side with a small orchard. There is a row of citrus trees on the lowest slope. The ground beneath and around the trees was dry, compacted and bare of any vegetation. I noticed when it rained the first time this fall that water ran straight off into the easement below carrying soil with it. I decided to help the situation by terracing around each tree removing the soil from the higher side and adding it to the lower side to create steps that extend just past the drip lines. At the edge of the steps I mounded soil up to create a series of mini swells. The idea was to slow down erosion and divert the water through the property more efficiently allowing for better permeation. It would also allow me to amend the soil without losing it all to run off. The original grade under the swales at the lower perimeters are buried under about 15" of clay, clay loam now. I added 3 yards of peat moss to each ring when constructing to loosen up the soil. The semi healthy trees leaves are now yellowing progressively, cupping and dropping slowly. They are plagued with white flies, cottony cushion scale, brown or red scale, leaf miners, sooty mold and carpenter ants. At first I thought the yellowing was from a combination of nutrient deficiency and pests but now I suspect I have done at least half the damage myself by burying half the feeder roots under an extra layer of soil. I've applied horticultural oil twice now and its been warm so I'm not sure if that has caused or contributed to the leaf curl. Will the trees be able to adapt or do I need to implement drastic damage control tactics like pruning to equalize leaf/root ratio and removing the extra soil or adding breather pipes for the buried feeders. Would appreciate any advice as I am a newbee gardener with very little practical experience.

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Comments (6)

calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
12 years ago
Tree roots grow close to the surface(especially citrus)as they need the oxygen in the root zone to allow the nutrient uptake. You probably could get away with what you did if done a little at a time to allow the roots to keep growing close to the surface. I would remove about 2/3 of what you added. The reason for the pest problem is the pests will attack a weak tree. Spray with hort oil weekly for three weeks should get it under control. Al
calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
12 years ago
Checking your member page I note you are a new member, welcome to GardenWeb. If you would edit your name to indicate the location or zone where you garden it would help anyone wishing to respond to your posts. Al
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bhangchai
12 years ago
You may have changed the pH of the soil by adding so much peat moss.
alan haigh
12 years ago
Your thread title wasn't very interesting but your problem certainly is. It is much better to have terraces on steep hills as you thought but with established trees you can't scrape up the roots on one side and bury them on the other and expect good results.

If you were cutting through a lot of roots when you pulled soil from above that would have been your clue to proceed very gradually over several years. A few inches of mulch would have accomplished much of what you were trying to do anyway.

If the lower roots haven't been buried too long you may be able to uncover them to original level and cover with mulch and pray to the citrus god for forgiveness. Unfortunately, according to citrus god laws, ignorance is no excuse.

I don't think the acidity of the peat moss would much affect the pH of the soil beneath but it is not the best mulch to use unless your soil is excessively alkaline. Even in that case I'd mix it with something that stops and holds water like arborist wood chips.
cptmb
Original Author
12 years ago
Tyvm for the welcome and responses Al, bhangchai, and harvestman. Although I don't know how accurate it was I did a home test of the soil and the pH is 7.0, N is med. high, P is medium, K is low. I'm guessing from what I've read I should shoot for about 6.5 pH. The pests and symptoms were already present before my input but have gotten progressively worse since I did the work. I'm trying to post pictures but am having difficulties.
alan haigh
12 years ago
7 is fine for most fruit trees. Cornell recommends 7 for apple production.

You must get your scale under control. Scale can kill trees and may be the primary issue with yellowing leaves. Get help from your county cooperative extension.

regraded around fruit trees on a slope

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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

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regraded around fruit trees on a slope

Comments (6)

calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

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bhangchai

alan haigh

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