The key to limiting nematodes in the garden is to NOT move SOIL or PLANTS from the infested area, or near it, to other parts of the garden. Give up your dreams of getting rid of the nematodes. Won't happen unless you move to a nema-free site. Instead, focus on the plants that will grow successfully in spite of them. Likely your county's Extension Service office has helpful info for you. Locate your office here: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/ Know that certain marigolds can *only* reduce RKN populations if planted in a solid stand for an entire season and without the RKN host plant in the area. Jean, who gardened successfully (including figs) in SoCal for 30-some years in spite of RKN Here is a link that might be useful: locate your county's Extension Service office

The primary problem I had was rhizoctonia root rot. It's contagious. That didn't show up in the first plant I sent to the Texas A&M plant diagnostic labratory, because I had bleached it. (Bleach in a 10% solution is sometimes used on roots.) So, the only thing they saw was the root knot nematodes. When I sent in a second specimen, they diagnosed it and gave me some suggestions for treating it. When that didn't work, I called the county agent. He said that rhizoctonia is not very treatable and I would probably lose most of my hosta. I did. So, the nematodes weren't that big a problem in my situation, it was the fungus. You will note though, the beach solution did not kill the nematodes. They spread in water, so if the infected plant has been there a while, they've probably already spread. Not all plants are equally susceptible. About 10% of my hosta survived. The usual treatment for nematodes is heat. On commercial farmers fields, they bring in these heat/steam treatments and treat a whole field. Hosta are susceptible to foliar nematodes. the usual treatment for those is dig up and trash the plant and then pour boiling water in the hole. One place I would go for advice is the facebook page on hosta diseases. I'm not sure she still does, but Carol Brashear used to moderate that page. She and her partner are very active in hostadom (they do the hostalibrary.org), so that might be a good resource. That's about all I can tell you. All the other information I have and the resources I used are detailed above. But again, the nematodes weren't my big problem. bkay

Personally I have given up doing anything to the soil to control these nematodes. Whatever I have done works for a while, but the nematodes come back. Any type of organic material discourages them, so worm castings and the soil drench described above should have some effect. However, I think the effects will be rather short-lived. Maybe if you have vegetables or something that you harvest in one season it will help a lot. I try to plant perennials and there has only been a few things that have worked for me. First is to buy plants that aren't bothered by these nematodes. Most azaleas and camellias, for example, aren't bothered by them, nor are most trees. On the other hand roses and gardenias need to be grown on grafted rootstocks--although there are some roses (Louis Philippe sp?) that are resistant. The second thing that works for me is to put the plants in pots, use potting soil or amended soil and then place the pots on some type of cement or concrete. The nematodes don't like concrete. If you put the pot on the ground eventually the nematodes will reach the roots. The nematodes love sandy soils. Some people who live in areas with little sand aren't bothered by them as much, however, most of Florida sits on top of sand, so most of us need to be concerned with root knot nematodes.

It does not look like root knot nematode damage. Usually the the root in that instance will be knarled with knot llike growth all over them. South Georgia and north Florida have lots of tomato diseases. Leaves look like Bacterial Speck, but that would not be your wilting problem. Spotted Wilt is a major problem for me. Have to use resistant varieties.