I finally viewed the piston via the open exhaust ports and found much play and side to side movement of the piston within the cylinder. I don't recall seeing this in any of my other working Lawn-Boys, so I suspect severe damage to either the cylinder sleeve/liner or the piston. I replaced engine shaft seals and I swapped the carburetor and ignition pack and spark plug with known good replacements and still experiencing the same problem...Engine starts only when completely cold for 5 seconds and dies. Attempts to restart leave wet/raw gas on the spark plug. Spark checks out OK, so I suspect the side to side play of the piston as the cause of problem. I also checked the braking mechanism and on/off contacts and it is working normally. Please advise if any of you folks have experienced this problem and if it may be due to the piston with much side to side movement within the cylinder. Thanks for your help.

I looked at that parts site again these engines all have a flywheel like yours but use that other kind of recoil starter (why there's 2 different part numbers I don't know): GV100K1 -- LD2 GV100K1 -- NICG 28400-ZG1-T12ZA STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *R8 * 28400-ZG1-T12ZB STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *NH1* GV100K1 -- LD2 GV100K1 -- N1CG 28400-ZG1-T12ZA STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *R8 * 28400-ZG1-T12ZB STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *NH1 * GV100K1 -- NIR2 28400-ZG1-T02ZA STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *R8 * 28400-ZG1-T02ZB STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *NH1 * On the other hand these engines all have a flywheel like yours but use the kind of recoil starter that you have: GV100K2 -- A1 GV100K2 -- A2 GV100K2 -- A2CG GV100K2 -- A2G 28400-ZL1-003 STARTER ASSY., RECOIL Confusing isn't it. From something I found on the net it said that in the states Honda was very tight with their information and that only authorized dealers could get parts and that's why they made the information difficult to get. Apparently the serial number on the mower has encoded into it whether or not it's K1, K2, etc. Apparently it designates which revision it is. Do you have the serial number for the mower itself, that might shed some light on what your dealing with. You originally said that the seller started it and offered you to "have a go". Does that mean you started it as well or just tried it out? Your subject says the pull cord was stuck, did you mean it was stuck in the pulled out position or that it wouldn't pull out? Maybe you have the correct parts and there something else to it not working?

It's fairly common for the fuel metering plug in the bottom of the fuel bowl to get plugged. Turn the mower up on it's right-side wheels (carb side up). Use a box-end wrench and take the plug out. The fuel bowl should remain stuck to the carb and no fuel should come out. Strip the paper off a wire tie and use the soft steel wire to clean out the three holes; large through-hole just above the bolt head, small metering hole in center of hollow bolt and small air bleed on the side at top of threads. After passing the wire through, blast holes out with spray carb cleaner. Put the plug back in, allow a minute for the carb to fill back up and try it. This only takes five minutes and usually is the problem. Use of a gas additive like Sta-Bil, Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil can help keep it clean. It may leak gas if you don't get it tight enough, but take it easy until you know how tight it has to be so it won't leak. It's a brass bolt into a zinc alloy and it won't take much to strip it. I use a little 4" box-end which restricts torque. There is also a magnetic kill switch that cuts the mower off if the mulch plug or bag is not installed, but you can test this by checking spark. If you have spark the switch is on. Basically, if you take the plug out and hold it against the engine while somebody pulls the starter cord, you should see and hear the spark. This more or less proves it's a fuel issue.

I've patched my C21ZPRA magnesium deck with straps of aluminum from the hardware store. Most places I used flat head screws with nuts but in a few spots I couldn't drill through the housing, so I used self-drilling screws simply as self-tappers. So far it's working well. Finally managed to slightly bend the crankshaft extension. I'm able to set the blade so it doesn't vibrate. I replaced the spark plug when I was having starting problems last year, but the old plug is fine. Parts prices are insane. If they actually have any decks left, no one is going to pay over $500 for one. Let it go for $50, maybe someone would buy it. $275 for a crankshaft? Out of sight. Guess they're attached to this stuff; don't want to sell any? No one around here can weld magnesium. The stuff burns intensely if it is not welded with the right equipment and skill. Easy with the right stuff, mainly the correct filler rod and TIG, like aluminum. A shop that repairs old VW crankcases (magnesium, with some aluminum and zinc for strength) should be able to weld a Lawn-Boy magnesium deck. CO2 or water makes Mg burn more intensely as both have oxygen in them. Maybe if I ever get back out to Oregon with the mower I can get the VW specialist next door to my father in law's house to fix the deck. For some reason I typed "1981" when it should have been "1991."