I am talking about the diaphram and flappers on the side of the carb. I did get a new diaphram, and ran carb cleaner through every hole on the unit. but it seems like the the hole that goes from the flaper chamber ( next to the diaphram ) is clear, but too far forward for the flapper to seal over it. One hole leads into the diaphram chamber, and the other leads to the tank, which is the fuel pump. but the tank hole doesn't seem to be sealng .. I'm just wondering if this is normal. Joey

***"What will removing the kill harness from the coils and do a test run tell me?"*** That was brought up due to the fact that the ignition system here (in vee twins) is configured as 2 separate magnetos...........joined together into a single kill wire circuit, for convenience when shutting down the engine. With magnetos, you must ground one leg of the primary coil circuit in order to "kill" the spark generation. A problem or obstacle arises when you have an engine configured with multiple cylinders and multiple magnetos. The focal point in this is that in order to kill both magnetos with a single kill wire circuit, you gotta join the kill wires from each magneto together so that both mags are killed simultaneously when a command to stop the engine is issued. This "command" might come from the ignition key switch when the machine operator turns the key switch to OFF, or.......the command may be issued by one of the safety interlock switches or relays (depending on the make of machine). The problem or obstacle when simply connecting the kill wires from each magneto together in the form of a "hard wire" splice is that connecting the kill wires together will cause serious and detrimental operating effects on BOTH magnetos when the engine is running. In theory, the kill wires can be kept separated from each other by providing a separate kill wire circuit for each magneto..........and running the pair of kill wires all the way to a specially designed key switch having 2 individual kill wire terminals (1 for each mag) which remain completely separated from each other until the key switch is turned off. Now, that in itself is a bit more complex than the single wire system that is industry standard.............but it gets worse. Because in modern OPE, there is a safety interlock system, with multiple switches wherein each switch can issue the command to kill the engine spark.............each switch would have to have double circuits for the magneto kill function, or a master relay for magneto kill having 2 separate circuits would have to be employed. All this double wire stuff and special switches in various locations could conceivably add hundreds of dollars per unit built to the OEMs cost of manufacture, and that cost would be passed on to the consumer. To overcome this obstacle, Briggs overcame the problem by connecting the kill wires together with 2 diodes, so that the separate magnetos stay separated electrically from each other during normal operation (and therefore do not interfere with each other's spark making business). In this manner, the kill wire function can be controlled by the same simple type of switches now in use. Now, for why this is something to be concerned about if you own one of these Briggs engines. Occasionally, one of the diodes can become defective. If becomes defective OPEN, there may not be any noticeable difference in how the engine runs, but when trying to stop the engine, one cylinder may continue to have spark. If this is on an engine that has a fuel solenoid, you might not even notice that you have a cylinder still getting spark, because the fuel solenoid stops main jet fuel when the key is turned off, and the pilot jet fuel is not enough to keep the "live cylinder" running against the dead cylinder load. But, if one of the diodes becomes SHORTED, or any sort of continuity in both directions develops, there will be some problems in how the 2 cylinders run. Tomplum's suggestion of isolating the magnetos from their kill wires is a way to determine if there is a problem of 1 cylinder being dead. But to separate the mags from their kill wires properly, you must disconnect each wire from the magneto itself, and that means taking off the flywheel cover. If you remove the flywheel cover, put it back on before running the engine or you will overheat it because with the cover off, there is no air flow across the cylinders. You will also have to choke the engine to a stop if running with the kill wires removed. This post was edited by mownie on Wed, Apr 9, 14 at 13:21

Thanks to all that are helping me on this the spring is there, I was frustrated and ended up buying a new carb, but I do not know the initial settings, I believe it is screw it in easy then back out 1/1/2 turns. Also When I got back to the rider, it would not turn over, I found out that somehow all the gas emptied into the crankcase!, Cleaned it all out, changed filter and oil twice, I ordered a shutoff gas valve for this, but never had this problem before ever. Chasing a gremlin in this darn engine. I have everything installed, New Carb, new fan, the old one had almost all the vanes missing, not sure how that happened, as it is all enclosed., new gas filter and shut off, and a new plug, oil and filter. Got everything put on, and tried to start, Now the Battery is totally dead, and will not recharge, however, I knew this was going anyway. So tomorrow I will get a Battery. It only has.4 tenths voltage. Man I guess I have a lemon here. The Dr. I put on a new Carb but something else is wrong with this, as I have to pull the plug and put gas into it to get it going, then push the primer bulb on the carb many times just to keep it running, once it gets warmed up it will stay running, but this Tecumseh Engine always was hard starting from the get go, I contacted Dr about this and they said to put in a hotter spark plug, did not change the hard starting when cold, Will let you know how I did, when I get the other battery for the Craftsman. Where I live I have to go 35 miles to get non ethanol gas, as I am finding out the gas here is messing up everyone's small engines and gas powered yard trimmers, chainsaws, etc. Thanks again for all your help it is much appreciated .

THe valve adjustment suggested by Walt is a good idea. Sometimes owners describe the blurping from a rich fuel mixture as a backfire. Most Vanguard engines use the vacuum fuel pumps supplied by Mikuni. Sometimes a diaphram would leak and fuel would enter the crankcase. The breather would send fuel fumes to the carburetor intake resulting in a rich fuel mixture. As the condition worsened, the engine would lose power and foul sparkplugs.