Well I just talked to my friend. (See thread start) The engine starts and runs great though it does have considerable compression when pulling the rope. I think the "V" does have higher compression ratio than the "F" which is the reason for the square, larger, cooling fins (?) He did what I said in post above. The fix does not fit the symptoms to me. He says that now it does not seem to have the crankcase compression with the spark plug out. I still feel like this was perhaps the stuck ring binding in the bottom of the bore where there is generally less wear. This plus the carbon build up in the top of the cylinder jug MAY be the answer, I don't know. Anyway, that's it. Thanks to all for the help, Walt Conner

I finally viewed the piston via the open exhaust ports and found much play and side to side movement of the piston within the cylinder. I don't recall seeing this in any of my other working Lawn-Boys, so I suspect severe damage to either the cylinder sleeve/liner or the piston. I replaced engine shaft seals and I swapped the carburetor and ignition pack and spark plug with known good replacements and still experiencing the same problem...Engine starts only when completely cold for 5 seconds and dies. Attempts to restart leave wet/raw gas on the spark plug. Spark checks out OK, so I suspect the side to side play of the piston as the cause of problem. I also checked the braking mechanism and on/off contacts and it is working normally. Please advise if any of you folks have experienced this problem and if it may be due to the piston with much side to side movement within the cylinder. Thanks for your help.

The crank, piston and rings are identical to those from the "F" series. I know this because I've used them in "F" series engine before. I prefer the "F" series muffler over the "V" so if its not too bad use the F muffler instead and save your money. The "F" engine ranged from 4,4.5, and 5 hp. The "V" was rated solely at 5 hp. Good luck. Neal

"I have popped many d's and f's apart." I don't understand this statement. A crankcase on a D Series does not split like that of an F, thus there is no sealing required on the D models. However, since the F Models do have a true split crankcases, you do have to use a sealer when re-assembling them. Bill