Thanks I email him and ask. I always wondered how anyone could bend a crank by hitting something with the blade well now I'm one of them. I was in a rush, mowing as fast as that thing would go. I knew there is a stump at the tree line but on that unfortunate day, whamm. I did a bone head maneuver. Wide open and it stopped instantly! Talk about a sick feeling. So bought a crank $39 and two seals $10 and got to work. Just need to figure out where that mark is on the crank. For those of you wondering what I think of the mower(4 yrs old now). It has run excellent everytime, every year I've owned it. Starts first pull everytime, even after being winterized. It does surge a little if the temps are down in the 40's but goes away after 30-45 seconds when it warms up. No oil leaks, no burning oil. I never have had to add oil even after the whole summer has past. So I give it a thumbs up.

For Ethanol-laced fuels, I use the blue super-concentrated Sta-Bil at 1 oz/10 gal. I put it in the 2-gal gas can (about 1/2 oz - a little too much doesn't matter) when I go to the gas station along with about 2 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil. I don't do anything special with the fuel when putting the mower away except close the fuel valve if so-equipped. The same holds for the last run in the fall. They always start right up in the spring and always run fine. The only thing I've ever heard about the old red Sta-Bil is that it could leave red flakes in the fuel system. They now have a re-formatted red for Ethanol fuels but I haven't tried it since I've had good results with the blue, and I like using less product with the super-concentrate. I do the same thing for my 2-cycle mix except maybe a little more MMO in addition to the regular mix oil. All engines love MMO, and you can take 4 oz of fuel, add 4 oz of MMO and have a great fogging mix for storage. Always use only 2-cycle mix for this in 2-cycles, never just the MMO and straight gas, although I have no doubt it would be fine if you did. No sense in taking any chances though.

My 2 cents , Honda Engines are still solid performers . Their carbs have suffered from downgrading to a small degree. They do require more proactive care. Using common sense and a little preventative mtce and these issues can be avoided . Ethanol is evident in most if not all fuel to some extent in the U.S . Treating this fuel will resolve any problems. I remember when many engine manufacturers pre ran their units , and most likely still do for Q.A. Rational. Fuel may be evident within the fuel system therefore from the get go . Rusting is a Red Light of Ethanol fouling from long term . I suppose 1 yr would do the trick . The owner may have not seen the small amount of oxidation around the low speed jet area which can cause this condition . 13 $ is cheap for a quick fix . Very few owners are experienced within carb rebuilding and often do more harm then good . As for Viton and solvent usage as advised by Tom I agree some swelling could occur . EPDM seals are the only type I would allow Acidic or Amine solvents clean . Have owned previously Honda Engine Units and have had good service from them . Currently have a Toro , but would not hesitate on a Honda should the price be right .

Thanks for the replies. I have been using Sea Foam on and off for a while, I think that should do the same as marvel. I always add stable to the stuff that comes out of the pump besides the corn juice who knows whats really in it! This Honda seems to be the same or more fule efficent than the Onan even thought it says there are 4 more ponys. Just wish the carb was adjustable (dosent need it now but in the future it would be nice), but the EPA took all of the good stuff away.