Hi to Zeke & all, Quite a surprise to get a reply after all this time but very welcome too, Thanks! I've been missing the forum too but taking care of my Mother after she had a large stroke takes a lot of time but fortunately things are smoothing out now! Back to the Question: My Yard Man mower has meet all my expectations and more! It's a joy to use, has plenty of power, fairly quiet running which I really appreciate as I don't use ear plugs or such either - no need to, along with the fact it's very smooth operaterating and stable. It's true the deck does have some flex to it but on uneven ground such as I have that works to the mowers advantage for better traction! The front wheel drive works very well too and pulls strong and the engine starts very easily even with just a slight pull. As mentioned prior the only thing that happened was that one front hub cap fell off luckly while pushing it without mowing, that was easily resolved with one wrap of masking tape, which I did to both caps to make the griping surface a slight bit bigger in diameter and they're holding on just fine. I've used the mower in all three configurations Mulch,SD & RB and again very pleased with its ability. The other day I had the catcher bag completely full and it was still pulling great! The high rear wheels really come in handy as it's easy to rock it back for turning 180 or rolling it through loose gravel as I have in some areas in the back yard. So for my money I feel I made a very good purchase and couldn't be more pleased!! To me, comparing it to my old mower, it's like having a wide-track jeep to mow with as it makes short work of the mowing task while being a lot of fun to use! HTH

One thing you have to understand is the GPM of the washer is just as important as the PSI. Remember, you can never have too much pressure or GPM in a PW per se meaning you can always throttle it back to reduce the pressure. The GPM is what decreases the time to wash, not just the pressure. The higher the GPM the faster the washing. Also, the farther the tip from the surface, the lower the effective pressure is. A tip 12" away from the surface at 4000psi can do less damage than a tip 2" away at 2500psi, although a lower psi PW will have a less likely chance of accidentally causing damage. The advantage of a higher pressure PW is if you need it, it's there. I'm one of those people who would rather pay a higher price for quality initially and features knowing I will have fewer problems down the road. But you still have to live within your budget. Don't buy something based on price only to find out for a few dollars more, you could have bought a much better machine which in turn will do a better job cleaning and provide better service in the long run. As far as the PW itself, the pump is the most important piece with the engine coming in a close second. Personally, I would stay away from an AR pump (Annovi Reverberi) and stick with CAT, Comet, or General pumps along with a Honda GX engine, but make sure of the model number of the pump, not just the brand name. HD, Lowes, and the like, will put the cheapest "brand name" pump on a PW to meet a price point to sell more washers (ex: CAT 67DX39 vs a 66DX40 pump. Both are closely rated but a cost difference of around $125). Each brand pump has a high level and low level pump. You have to decide which is more important: quality or price. What you may find is once you have a PW, you will be amazed as to how many jobs you will find a use for it other than the yearly deck and driveway cleaning which can justify the initial cost. If you want to clean concrete driveways, I would invest in a good "turbo rotating nozzle." This will reduce the cleaning time by 1/2 over a "fan tip" nozzle. An industrial type will run around $100 but you can get them for as little as $30. These nozzles will eliminate the "striping" effect you get with fan spray tips. Also, when you replace tips, make sure you replace it with the correct psi/gpm that the washer is rated for. One other VERY IMPORTANT feature is the unloader valve and temperature release valve. NEVER EVER let your PW run for more than 2-3 minutes without running water through the gun/pump. If so, you can damage the pump!!! You MUST keep the pump from overheating which results in blown seals and part damage. These features increase the cost but can save hundreds down the road if the pump should overheat. http://www.ultimatewasher.com/pressure-regulator-unloader-valves.htm Also remember to keep the engine and pump oil changed frequently. These parts run at high RPMs constantly usually at a high ambient temperature which can cause the oil to break down quicker. Use the oil recommended by the pump manufacturer and a good high quality motor oil (I use Amsoil 4 stroke synthetic oil). It's a bit more but worth the reduced wear and tear on the engine.

Yes, I certainly do as I have a new G85. I really hate disinformation, so let me help you with at least this model. First of all if you want to get the accurate history of BCS and Grillo call up Earth Tools and speak to Joel, the owner, who is 37 and has been in his family business since he was 12. Briefly Grillo has been making walk-behind tillers from their beginnings where BCS was making sickle mowers. BCS decided that they wanted to explore expanding their line diversty and contacted Grillo, who was equally interested in adding sickle mowers to their line. They actually partnered up for a period, but eventually went their own ways but still have friendly ties with each other. Another words, Grillo was never made by BCS, ever, nor was it owned by BCS. They began as separate companies from the "get go" and are still separate except for the instance mentioned above. Grillo has been making fine tillers for a very long time and they basically have not changed for years. However, BCS is predicting to have some majour revamping of their tiller lines soon. They have already discontinued their 710 model that was replaced by the 712. The Grillo tillers in this country are powered by different power plants than in the European market. I opted for the Vanguard/Briggs & Stratton 7.5hp engine. It is actually made in Japan by Mitsubishi and is a dead ringer for a Honda. The pull start even feels the same nas a Honda. From what I have heard and read, it is just about as good and has the same longevity as the Honda, but it is at least $400 less expensive. The only reason that you might opt for the 9hp Honda rather than the 7.5hp Vanguard is if you might want to use some of the PTO accessories. Also, you will find that the Grillo is less expensive than similar BCS tillers. Finally, the Grillo is very safe as well. I have no idea who told someone that the tiller tines rotate backwards when the Grillo is in reverse. You can't even engage the tiller tines whilst the tractor is running in reverse! As for the G*d awful green, I think that is a matter of taste. I happen to really like that bright neon green. It isn't the same old boring RED garden shop junk and it certainly doesn't look it. I decided to get the Grillo after my old 26 year old Econo-Horse Troy-Built died. I would recommend a Grillo to anyone and everyone that could see fit to afford one. I really started out to purchase a BCS, but thanks to the honesty and integrity of Joel DuFour, at Earth Tools, I am so glad to have found the Grillo line. I hope this has helped and developed a more accurate representation of Grillo tractors and impliments, as well as any confusion regarding BCS as well. Regards

Don't know for sure, but common sense would say open.