+1. Nitrogen is what gets used at this time. P and K consumption aren't much different (lower, actually) than they are at any other point in the season. High N levels (which turn to carbohydrates after use and photosynthesis, indirectly) will increase winter survivability and may keep your lawn greener over the winter. Potassium is pretty much harmless in modest amounts in winterizer, so most winterizers do have a little of it. If you were short, potassium will help with cold tolerance. But it's best if you kept the potassium at the correct level throughout the season as it's an all-around good weather tolerance enhancer and helps with disease resistance. Potassium is also not a water pollutant. It doesn't increase eutrophication (the tendency for algae to bloom in waters and choke out other life). There's always and already tons of the stuff kicking around. I never heard about the K increasing the chances of snow mold, but it does make sense. Increased K increases cold resistance, keeping the lawn greener further into winter when it can be snow-covered and then grow snow mold. However, if your P levels were optimal, that's happening anyway (and I'd never recommend a non-optimal level). Phosphorus does cause eutrophication, and application late in the season encourages erosion of it and runoff as it doesn't penetrate soils quickly. The latest I recommend P additions is about six weeks before ground freeze, and I usually try to cut more time than that. Spring, summer, and early fall are the correct times to enhance phosphorus levels.

Well, what you have there is a link to a Powerpoint presentation by Doug O'Brien at Cabrillo College. Sadly, all it proves is that Doug O'Brien of Cabrillo College doesn't know what he is talking about if he thinks you get a downward pH adjustment of 0.1 every time you put a ton of lime on an acre of soil. Neither calcium nor sulfate has a direct effect on soil pH and that's all that gypsum is...calcium and sulfate. The only time you will have a downward shift in the pH due to gypsum application is when it is applied to a sodic soil (i.e. SAR greater than 15) which has an elevated pH due to that sodium imbalance. (On a side note, very often the text book rise in pH does not accompany sodic soil conditions) Only when sodicity causes an elevation of the pH does gypsum help decrease that pH. And even in those cases the effect is indirect and has to do with improved soil structure allowing for the leaching of sodium rather than any reactions that calcium goes into. If you need to lower your soil pH, elemental sulfur is your better bet. As far as why it is important...it is primarily a nutrient availability issue. If the pH is too high or too low, fewer nutrients will be available for a number of reasons. Also, if it gets really low you can start having toxicity issues. I guess if you want to get into it more we can start a new thread.

Dbrya, hello there, (sorry I don't know your name) Mmmmmh the weather is normal over here...C--P! Have managed to get into +degC today but been thick with fog, a real pea-souper! For the past few days we have been -degC so I suppose today was a refreshing change! Yesterdays washing stood up all on its own when we got back from the shops, it had frozen solid, was stuck to the line and I had to bend it over my arm to get it to fold up! Only had one light snowfall in mid Nov so far, was all gone the next day, we get no where near as much as we used to get. The days of snowploughs digging the village out have gone now, thank goodness. Josh...pleased to learn your seeds have at last germinated for you, great news! Mine all came up and seem to be growing at quite a fast rate, (which I like!), and are now already 4cms high. They were planted on 23rd Nov and showed above the soil on 3rd Dec. The leaves are beginning to 'flatten out' on many rather than just being like a 'spike'. Mine get bottom heat from the hood of the tropical fish tank and extra light from a wall light above them and I'm sure this is helping them and they have now turned a lovely bright green. Soon I guess I will have to transplant them into something deeper than the take away box to give the roots a better chance. Don't think there will be room on the trop tank for 20 extra size yoghurt pots though! My 3 batches of seeds I got from eBayUK have now arrived and I have planted a few of each sort. They're in the airing cupboard again, it worked a treat last time, they are Trachycarpus Fortunei, Butia Capitata and Sabal Minor....what the heck am I going to do with them all if they get going too?! Also have a load more from our Nov holiday in Costa del Sol to plant up when I retrieve them from our rellies who we went with. Would have had some more of a different palm but a passing dog watered them before we got to pick them up!! Keep me posted on the progress of the Washys please, it will be an interesting comparison. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all. Gill.

Hi Bob & welcome to The Hot Pepper Forum! While we like members to research their issue please start a thread with you want to know... Seed starting? What are you currently using? Be specific, potting media - seeds from reputable seller or eBay, etc.? Where are you located meaning USDA Zone map. Don't be shy, engage the members here as we have a lot of growing experience! bobanderson6 How.tp germinate.ghost peppers in cups by window Like Bookmark last Thursday at 4:03PM bobanderson6 Hi it's my fist time growing poblano peppers (or really anything) some tips on how to get them to germinate? Like Bookmark Yesterday at 11:22AM bobanderson6 Hello I need tips for germinating ghost peppers. I don't have a plant light or heat mat. Can I just put the seeds in cups by the windowsill Like Bookmark last Thursday at 3:59PM bobanderson6 How.tp germinate.ghost peppers in cups by window Like Bookmark last Thursday at 4:03PM