Tecumseh with plastic bowl - if it is flooding, at the bottom of the bowl on the side is a screw. Remove that and inside is a plastic piece, this meters the flow of fuel and if missing can explain flooding. Also carb is extruded aluminum and there is a small hole drilled in it for the bowl to breath, that could be the other cause. Lastly dirt is holding the carb needle open- hold the carb bowl in your hand off the carb and let the gas flow in and see if the bowl overflows while outside the carb. If it only runs for a sec, upon removing the screw from the bowl the plastic piece inside - get a drill and drill it just a hair larger - so far this personaly worked for me 3 for 3 of these. Do this after trying cleaning it out the same piece with a paperclip. Sorry all if parts of my post are a repeat. ihwall50- black smoke, too much gas from dirty air filter, try banging the filter on the street curb knocking dirt loose and try again. if it improves, get a new filter.

Another Pic of Old Craftsman, Weed Eater Models I had success with âÂÂBUT WORKâÂÂ! 1. I must â SAY AGAINâÂÂ, they take Time and Interest. I would look for ring movement in the piston vs trying to rotate. 2. Try to feel for piston ringâÂÂs compression with your finger or dowl feeling for drag, rotating slow w/o oil before too much time is spent. 3. This old models which have only had bad fuel lines and carb problems are personally all I plan to touch (in my volunteering mode) vs compression teardown issues. They are normally plentiful at Estate/Garage Sales. My20 + yr old blower was 15.00 with a demo that it worked. 4. Replacing fuel line can almost become a teardown until you learn the tricks of fishing, feeding and pulling line. This was a 70âÂÂs Hobby before moving to Computer Applications/Cad and Comp Repairs as a Hobby to keep my job. Call them Hobbies vs Jobs and they become More Fun vs Nightmares. LOL

Hi All, Thanks for all the tips; you actually helped me solve my issue (the clutch did not engage). Two years ago, I decided to buy a “Portable Car Battery Charger” instead of keep buying new battery every winter, which apparently was the root-cause. I used the “Portable Car Battery Charger” to jump-start the tractor then disconnected it and start plowing but this year the clutch did not engage. Apparently, the clutch need some power from the battery and since my battery is dead it simple didn’t engage. So, as a "temporary solution" I ducted tape the “Portable Car Battery Charger” to the tractor hood and I keep it connected after the initial “jump-start” and the clutch (and me) are happy. Next week, I will get a new battery for the tractor and a “Battery Buddy” to keep the battery alive during the summers. Hopefully, this post will save others some time & $$

It may be about time to pop the valve cover and look at the valve train for signs of unequal valve height (how far up the valve stem rises when the engine is turned by hand). If one of the valves does not rise as far as the other, a valve seat may have come out. Does the engine seem to spin faster than usual when cranking? Hear any kind of hissing or wheezing sound from the exhaust while cranking? Can you still "hear" the characteristic thump sound of the compression stroke while cranking or just the starter just seem to make a monotone, steady spinning sound like it isn't under any load?