I too had a no-start situation with my LB 10301.
The rust on the ignition pack laminations didn't
look too bad, but as a last resort I took it off
and cleaned it up, re-installed it and voila',
it fired on first pull and started on the second
pull. For the life of me I can't see how that
little bit of rust can effect the magnetic field,
but it does.

Thank you Ibpod, tried it and cleaned the laminations, mainly greasy. Finally braved the hold on the ing. wire and pulled the strarter cord test and there was no juice, is it time for a new coil?

Surface rust on the flywheel or coil lamination has no effect on the ignition strength, however the lamination gap to flywheel does.

If the gap is set correctly, try disconnecting the shut off wire from the ignition coil and check for a spark. Put the mower in a darkened garage when checking for a spark. If there is no spark, pull the flywheel to inspect the ignition points (1979 engines have points)

I'm sorry.... I beg to differ,rust causes resistance,and the more rust the weaker the spark....too many years of tuning mowers to be told otherwise .....clean the magnets free of rust ,do the same with just the coil legs(gap at .010" no guessing)......if your unit has points and condensor,you have two options ,replace the P&C,or go to electronic ignition for around $40.00 bucks .

1bpod, you really reset the ground on you LB,I believe your system is a closed loop system ,meaning the coil needs to be grounded to create a spark....where as the B&S system is a open loop system ,meaning if grounded the spark dies....my 2 cents Jim

JIMC vt,

To clarify, the magnetic flux passes through the rust on the magnet and the rust is not a factor. You are correct that the rust on the lamination must removed so that the lamination is grounded. This information came from the Briggs portal site.

Just yesterday I pulled out such a mower from my barn with an empty gas tank. I pulled and pulled and sprayed starter fluid and it would not start.

Found out that it took awhile to bring the gas up from the tank. Maybe you just have to pull more times or prime with gas.

Well, until this happened to me, I too thought
the rust on the coil thing was a bunch of hooey.
Believe me when I tell you, the gap was correct
and there was a good connection to ground at
the mounting points. Wire brushing what amounted
to 'surface rust' off the laminations was all that
I did, and it made all the difference in the world.

Last evening I removed the ground wire from the laminations on the coil and it would not start. Replaced it, and place the ing. wire near the spark plug in the dark and no spark.
Tried to see how to remove the fly wheel when I had the starter assembly off and all there was was this metal square thing that fit into the starter assembly.
A friend said you can remove it without the tool mentioned in the Briggs service manual, he said to remove a nut, but do not see the nut he speaks of, suggestions appreciated.
Think it is time to look at the p&c.

Could it be that your starter drive is square at the top and about 3" in diameter at the bottom?

If so, you can use a large pipe wrench, turning counterclockwise to remove it. Don't be surprised if it doesn't seperate and the ball bearings fall out. If so, use heavy grease on the very bottom of the balls to hold them in position again.

When trying to remove the starter assy, I take off the screen, then screw the little bolts back into their holes, and then i use a large flat punch and a hammer to remove that starter thing. Usually, that casting has a large flat area on one side which should be used to hammer on.
Also--when, or if, you took the carburetor apart, (off the tank)did you get the spring and open cup back in there the correct way? The cup and spring DO NOT go into the top of the tank! They set on top of it, on top of the gasket/ diaphragm, and fit into the carb. body! With the smooth side of the cup on the diaphragm (Gasket)!Best to reassemble it upside down-makes it easier to get everything into the right place!

baymee and rustyj14 I have removed the starter assembly with some coaching from a knowlegeable source, smacking the flywheel with a soft hammer(piece of wood and a hard hammer. The points are exposed and how do I tell if they are tired, compare with a new set I would suspect? MFGsupply.com got their part # 31-1772 for Briggs # 294628

No large pipe wrench unfortunately baymee, but used the punch method on the knobs on the underside of the starter assembly rustyj14.

Thank you both for the tips. Any more advice is most welcome.

If you take off the coil assembly to clean the rust off the laminations, you can reset the gap by using a strip of birthday card about an inch or so wide by 10 inches long. Pull the coil back from the flywheel, and snug up both hold down bolts. Set strip of paper as above, between the coil legs and the non magnetic part of the flywheel. Then turn the magnetic part around until it is opposite the legs of the coil. Loosen the bolts, let the coil slide in against the paper, tighten the bolts. Turn the wheel around until the paper strip comes out-may have to tug on it-and the coil legs will be set right.
NOTE: When you put the flywheel nut(starter assy) and washer back on, be sure the domed side of the washer is "up"! This is how the nut is locked in place .

Oooh ooh, good stuff randyj14, knew about bus. cards for chain saw gapping, like the b'day card idea, saves trying to handle two bus. cards. And the domed washer tip is good, though I did make note of it.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to everyone, car probs. the last few weeks, and had to take the mower to show someone to know where to tap the flywheel to free it after taking off the starting nut on top that fits into the starter assembly. Once that was settled proceded with the dismantling.

Will be placing an order with mfg supply in a couple of weeks and will include the points and condensor. Back to everyone then.

Couple of questions, the points assembly, tried to put it back on, after removing it, the thing with the little spring, couldn't get it on, was trying to use a pointy screwdriver(just a point no blade, name excapes me) to lever on the spring, no luck, by the time I had finished the wire had detached from the cyl. thing it was soldered to. Any tips, won't be good to do the same thing with the new points?

Also there looked to be a post that hit the points assembley, however when I rotated the blade(ign. wire removed from plug and tucked away safely:-)) and it did not push against the points arm/assembly. Should it have, what is up there?

Thank you in advance for your advice.