Here are your pictures. Fungus of some kind. I agree. How are you watering? How often and for how long? Have you left any garden clipping on the lawn or toys or anything that would cut off air flow to the grass? So yes, fungal control would be appropriate. I can't help you with chemicals but if you wanted to do it organically I can tell you what works for me. I wish I could say it works unequivocally but some people I trust highly have not had the same luck as I have. If you want to try the organic approach you cannot use any fungicide first. You have to use the organics first. Why? Because the organic approach relies on a predatory fungus that will sweep in to prey on the disease fungus. The organic approach is ordinary corn meal - yes the stuff you buy at the grocery store. However, most people prefer to buy it in 50-pound bags at a feed store to get a much better price. The application rate is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. As I get more feedback on how this works, you might want to plan ahead to reapply at the same rate in 3 weeks. There is a fungus that decomposes the corn meal. The predatory fungus will attack the fungus on the corn and grow tremendously in population. When the original fungus is all gone, the predatory fungus will continue to attack the fungus causing your turf disease. By applying a second dose in 3 weeks, you magnify the population of the predator considerably.

I have four rose bushes on one of the borders of my lawn. All of the rose bushes develop some symptoms of Black Spot during the growing season. I just cut off the infected canes and throw them away. I noticed yesterday when testing the sprinkler system that a lot of mist gets blown back onto the leaves of the roses as the lawn is watered (I water the roses separately, at the base of the plant, so as not to get the leaves wet). My lawn (Midnight, Rugby II, Award, Blue Velvet) is infested with leaf spot and melting out disease. It'll probably need major (50%) re-seeding this fall. The farther away from the roses you get, the better the lawn looks, though even in the healthy looking areas one can find leaf spot lesions on the blades. Have I created good conditions for development of leaf spot and melting out fungus in my lawn by having those rose bushes so close? Humidity here is very low, but when I do water (every five days when the temperatures are above 90F) the leaves of the roses will get very wet for several hours at least. I just can't figure how my lawn can be so fungus infested in such a dry climate. I don't fertilize until mid-May (and not again until September), I don't water frequently, and I've applied cornmeal to the lawn. If I removed the roses completely and replaced them with shrubs or something would the fungus problem improve, or would I do just as well treating the rose bushes (and the soil beneath them) for fungus (chemically or organically) and keeping them pruned very low? Or, is the Black Spot fungus on the roses completely unrelated to the Drechslera poae and/or Bipolaris sorokiniana on my lawn? Thank you

Well I posted awhile back about a lawn fungus that was eating up my lawn,I assume it was from all the rain. The rain has stopped,which stopped the spread of the fungus. Now there is damage,so I will have to overseed. The lawn is under a large oak tree facing southeast. So it gets some sun in the morning and early afternoon. I was told by my local master gardener to overseed with fine fescue and tall fescue in the fall. I just want to make sure it will not happen again. The lawn is mostly clay so I assume it would be a good idea to aerate in the fall also.

Thanks for the reply. I am not sure what you mean by heads. If you mean head shaped silhouette formed by the patch of dead grass in the middle of my lawn then yes it does look like a head. Lol. I believe what I have is a fescue grass. I have noticed more small patches popping up around the yard and am terrified my whole lawn is going to be destroyed shortly. I have been doing a little more research on lawn fungus and realize everything I have been doing to try and keep my lawn healthy has been doing just the opposite. I am adjusting my watering regimen now from every other day to every 3 or 4 days to keep about 1 inch of water on the lawn a week. I am in the process of setting out some tuna cans to see where I am at. Also I recently fertilized my lawn with 28/0/8 lawn fertilizer for a second time last week and shortly after the fungus really took off and started up in other areas. It has been hot here in So Cal recently and the grass is probably a little stressed and adding all that nitrogen in this state stressed them out more and likely really let this fungus take hold from what I have read. So for now no more fertilizer on the lawn until I get a my soil tested. That lesson has been learned. Sheesh. The directions on scott's lawn fertilizer tells you right on the package you should fertilize you lawn 4 times a year. Nothing about how it has the possibility of rotting your lawn to death with fungus if conditions are right. Sorry for the rant. Anyone think I should try a fungicide at this point given the new patches that are popping up elsewhere? Or am I on the wrong track completely? Also anyone know a good place to get my soil tested here in Southern California. Please let me know. Richard