Yeah, I'm having the same issues with my sod that was put down at the end of march. The bermuda is doing fairly well, nice and green, but there are places in the back that has some type of thick blade grass/weed coming up in spots. Those spots have alot of that grass/weed. I'm hoping that the bermuda will take over. I'm going to lay off the watering to about 1 time a week and see how it reacts. I'll spot water alittle inbetween where some of sod wasn't taking, hopefully it'll help the bermuda spread into the semi-dead pieces. I've mowed it about 3 or 4 times already. I have a toro 20055 mower and the lowest it'll go is 1 1/4" which is about the lowest I can probably go on my terrian. Not that sod is uneven, just that I got banks and hills, and I don't think a reel mower will do well. Will keeping it at around 1 1/4" be enough to choke out the weeds?

Yes, tiemco and I disagree on mowing height. I would always mow fescue at the mower's highest setting while he mows at 3 inches (if I remember correctly). The fact people are successful following either of our preferences very likely means you can't hurt it either way. One issue with letting it grow tall is, how do you bring it back down without scalping it? You sort of have to scalp it down that first time and trust that it will recover. In no case, though, should you be mowing fescue or KBG at 2 inches or lower in the heat of summer. Spreading disease via the mower does not bother me as long as you are treating the entire yard (you should be). I only visited Tom's River for a few days back in 85. Mostly used it as a base to visit Seaside Park, Barnegat, Edison (friends), Princeton, NYC, and a cool little village on the PA border with lots of shops (never remember the name of that place).

I, too, would suspect that the seed head you have is Poa annua, annual bluegrass. Some consider this a good fill in until the more desirable grasses start growing because it will grow, and produce seeds, in cooler weather then those others. Take some samples to your local Cooperative Extension Services office for proper ID and ask the sod supplier, if possible, about what grasses are in that sod. Here is a link that might be useful: grass seed images

I use Milorganite in the spring as well, for summer and fall I use the Scott's Turfbuilder product designed for that season. I am by no means a lawn expert though, these are just easy to find, relatively inexpensive products that do the job well enough for me. I'm confident you could kill the ivy (and not your trees) if you have the time and patience. Again I'd suggest trying the Weed B Gon Chickweed Clover & Oxalis concentrate in an Ortho Dial N' Spray hose end sprayer. Just pick a calm day and get down low to avoid spraying the tree trunks and leaves. If the ivy is anything like wild violet it will take a couple of applications but it will work eventually. Then like you mentioned you'll have to rake out the dead ivy and reseed the bare patches. But as others have said, a weed-free (or even weed sparse) lawn is a huge commitment so I don't blame you for hiring it out--if you can find someone to call you back. Last thing I'll say is that no matter how diligent you are about your own lawn, if your neighbors aren't equally diligent you will always have some of their dandelions, clover, ivy, etc. filtering into your lawn. So I've lowered my expectations and live with a semi-weed free lawn after 13+ years at my current house.