I recommend using a NGK BKR5EIX pt. # 6341 spark plug . IT will last 8 - 10 years depending on the hours per week it is used, commercially a good 5-6 years . The other problem is the fuel filter. An in line filter like a NAPA 3012 will filter out the the trash that the factory screen filter allows to get to the carburator. The carburator is another problem as water gets is the gas much quicker . Take bowl loose with a long pair of needle nose pliers & clean if bowl leaks gas may need to get the 2 gaskets to bowl. Make sure you have your model # . Fuel is another issue as there is more alcohol in gas these days . Premium gas may help if you don't use daily BUT the product that I have found that works best to disperse water in gas is REDLINE SL-1 fuel additive. 1 ounce per gallon will make the alcohol & water disapear. Exception to this would be when you see water on the bottom of the tank . In this case drain the tank first before cleaning the bowl of Carburator . Just a reminder to never leave the switch on when the motor is not running . Most 14.5 B & S have an electric switch that allows fuel to go through carburator when switch is on. If that does not fix your problems you have a spark issue , a valve clearence adujst hot or cold ? or broken connecting rod . Mechanical issues should be taken to a specialist !

"Does pressure lubrication mean Briggs has an oil pump?" Well, yes....."pressure lubrication" DOES mean there is an oil pump. You need to address the "ticking" sound, and quickly too. You need to post the engine numbers (MODEL # and TYPE #) so we can view the IPL for your engine. You must understand that you should not run this engine further until you determine just what is causing the "tick". One cause could be that one of the screws that held the choke "butterfly" in place has been embedded into either the piston crown, or into the cylinder head, and is producing a slight tap each time the piston reaches TDC. If this is the case and the screw is dislodged again, it will further chew up the insides of the combustion chamber and cylinder. Another cause of this noise (based on the high RPM info) would be a bent pushrod. This could have occurred when the engine sped up "ungoverned" and "floated" the valves, allowing a pushrod to partially escape from a rocker arm. With the valve "floating" to the open position and the pushrod perched on the edge of the rocker arm cup....the piston would have struck the valve and the resulting blow could have bent a pushrod. Now that the pushrod is bent......there is TOO MUCH clearance between the valve and the rocker arm, resulting in the "ticking". You will need to remove the valve covers and go through the procedure for checking the valve clearances. If you do this and find a valve with far too much clearance (aka "lash"), you will need to inspect the pushrod serving that valve to see if it is bent. Before we get into the details of "how to DIY", post the critical numbers from your engine.

Yes, 31P777. We now need to consider 2 things that could be affecting this problem. First, when the engine does its "crank a bit" act...........do you mean it acts like it wants to crank but just moves slightly and then stops turning? If you wait a minute it will repeat that? and it might finally catch on and run, sometimes? If that is what it is doing, I suggest that the engine is probably past due for its recommended annual valve adjustment. Have the valves ever been adjusted in the time you have owned the tractor? But, if the action you are seeing/hearing produces a "rapid fire clicking noise" from the starter solenoid for a few tries and then finally does nothing............I suspect that the battery is not being recharged when the tractor is operated. If recharging with a battery charger, or boosting from a good battery produces a dependable cranking, that sort of points toward a problem in the engine charging system. I see that the tractor has a manually engaged PTO system. If there was an electric PTO clutch you would also be complaining that the deck would not stay engaged, and that would be a symptom to weigh in on the non charging scenario. It is real easy to determine whether the charging output is OK. All you need to do is read the battery voltage while the engine IS NOT running and write down the voltage on paper. Battery voltage at this point should read at least 12.3 volts and might even read 13 volts if it has been charged recently. Next, start the engine and run it at full throttle. After running for a minute (and while it's still running at high RPM) check the battery voltage again and write down the voltage on paper. The voltage should read at least 13.7 volts and hopefully as high as 14.3 or so. If you do not observe at higher voltage at max RPM compared to the not running battery voltage, your charging system is defective.

Thanks for the additional comments everyone. I replaced plug and ensured correct gap. I will check the ignition coil if when I put the carburetor back on, it still demonstrates the same issues. I also replaced the diaphragm in the carburetor. Since I last posted, I took the caruburetor off the engine and thoroughly cleaned it again with compressed air and carb cleaner. When I took the gas tank off, the small fuel well at top of tank was full (the main tank was not full), so that demonstrates to me that the pump/diphragm system is getting fuel adequately to the small well. This time, I took the welch plug off the idle mixing well and shot compressed air through the tiny orifices that deliver air/gas idle mixture to the throat. I blew compressed air through each hole and felt the air come out the throat so I know they are unclogged. I also put compressed air down the idle air blead that goes from the mixing chamber to the throat. I removed the idle mix needle and put carb cleaner down the orifice that brings fuel form the needle valve to the mixing chamber and from the needle valve down through the short pickup tube. I am convinced now that the entire idle air/fuel deliver system is clean. Now I'm waiting for the mail to get my new welch plug so I can put it back over the idle mixing well and reinstall the carubetor. I will reassemble and start back up after I get my welch plug. If it demonstrates same behavior, I'll take a few minutes and scream and then proceed with the next suggestions which I believe is air leak past the carburetor and ignition coil fail when hot. Thanks again for your suggestions.