Replace the inlet needle valve, and make sure the float is at the proper setting and not logged. If you have no fuel shut off valve install one. Go to the Lawn Boy site and download the manual.

ahhh - thanxs. i see the work-around (shut-off valve).
float does not have a setting - and i put it in water (seems OK), it is cork and not gas-logged. was still floating since i kept everything on the UP side when taking it apart.
will replace the needle inlet valve (think the tip may wear (did not examine closely though)).
and thanxs about the tip of the online manual
(my first time with LawnBoy)

Float level and how to set is in manual. Also replace needle and seat as a set.

What whizzer75 said. Had the same problems before-new needle and seat with a good carb cleaning should cure the issue.

Several of my lawnboys do that when they run. Its not a problem or at least one that really bothers me.

Its not worth the 10 bucks to fix it imho. I have a 10201 that does it along with a few older ones.

and yeah, the throttle on that model is next to useless. I mean, seriously, why have a throttle on a mower that doesn't have a clutch and stops when you release the handle? All mowing should be done at full throttle anyway, so just set it and forget it.

On my 10323 if I lean the motor on it's right side it will flood it. When you need to lean on the mower, lean it on it's left side.

Slag, why do you need FULL THROTTLE to to trim or neatly cut an inch off the top? Wastes more fuel, makes more noise! If you're not mulching or "cicling" down 6 inch tall grass every 2-3 weeks, FULL throttle is not needed. I think it's a great feature to choose either slow, half or full throttle when needed. I ran my older F that way for the entire time I owned it, and it powered just fine through the thicker, well fertilized lawns on "SLOW" speed setting, and used a lot less fuel.

two strokes are made to run wide open and run their best and are most efficient at full throttle. Small engines make most their power running wide open as well. My old 8271 does its best set to normal/fast speed instead of slow speed as well.

I agree with echoman. Although two strokes may run their best at full throttle, you certainly don't need it when you're just trimming and the grass is not overly high or thick. It just adds more noise and uses more fuel. The same can be said for string trimmers. Why keep it running at full throttle when you can get by with less throttle and less noise. I think that engine manufacturers eliminated the throttle on most mowers now just to save a few bucks. The general public just wants something that will cut the grass, and they really don't care about too much else in mowers these days.

Exactly cordes26. It's all on what the manu wants, which gives the consumer little choice for options. Actually, slag, 2 strokes have a "sweet spot" for power and optimum fuel efficiently which cooling has a part in it also. Running them wide open or on the ragged edge when full power output is not needed is actually more detrimental to the engine that it is good. Short bursts of full throttle is fine, constant, not so good. Ask any good shop that ports or "opens" up 2 stroke engines for racing. A slower rpm engine as the Lawn Boy's are would see less effect of this than a chain saw or trimmer engine would.

I'll stand by my previous post. Having worked with 2 strokes for quite some time now and small engines in general, two stroke small engines make their power at full throttle or close to it. Its detrimental to a small 2 stroke engine to run it at half throttle for extended periods of time, and burns off more carbon, makes more power, and is most efficient at wot or close to it. Think of it this way, You can lug a 4 stroke more because it has a wider power band starting at a lower rpm range up to full throttle. 2 strokes dont lug well at all, and make their torque at high rpm, aka full throttle. More torque, more cutting power.

Lawnboys are governed as to not run as fast as string trimmers or chainsaws but still achieve optimum cutting efficiency when running at peak.

I'm basing my post on experience in working with and rebuilding/tuning 2 stroke jetskis, lawn mowers, trimmers, chainsaws, etc. All engines have sweet spots, 2 strokes are made to rev and run at higher rpms constantly due to their much smaller power band.

With the experience you have, you must have meant to say torque is made at low rpm and horsepower is achieved at higher rpm, right? The WH0LE POINT to this slag, was that 2 strokes when run UNDER LOAD, is efficient when run at FULL throttle. You do that engine no justice to wind it tight up with no where to apply the horsepower. If 2 strokes were made for torque, the rods would be much longer, and they wouldn't be capable of 9,000 plus rpm. I'm not judging you or your experience with engines, I was questioning your opinions. Have a good day!

Again, my point fully agreeing with echoman is that they are quieter, and use less fuel when not running full throttle. It just that it is not always needed the maximun HP and torque.

You can't 'wind it up tight' under any circumstances - it's governed to about 3200 RPM. Running at that speed is not 'wide-open throttle'. Its the highest setting on the throttle control. Also, grass or no grass, no mower with a blade firmly attached is running under 'no load' - the blade alone has a huge power requirement since one of its major functions is to move large quantities of air. And, don't forget cooling. The designers calculate the engine running at the goverened speed to size the fan blades on the flywheel and the cooling fins on the engine. All this is part of the reason I no longer speak in favor of a hand throttle on a mower. Its just not needed and potentially causes more wear on the engine.

I wasn't referring to Lawn Boy's and excessive engine speed saxman-it was other engines. LB engines IMO, are governed just right to get the job done. The post has turned off 'topic' now, so it's time to let it die.