We need more info. Your in Alabama, right? What kind of lawn do you have? Because depeding on that determins what kind of herbicide chemicals you can spray on your lawn.

It looks like a grassy weed, 2-4 d wont work.

I have a bermuda lawn.

bump for someone to try and identify this weed.

I have the same weed in nc. I know it grows like crabgrass, but don't think thats what it is.

It looks kind of like a weed I have growing in my yard. If it gets really long does it get seed heads on top? I started another thread that is still on this front page and I think it may be barnyard grass. Here is a link to that thread and the weed that I think looks liek yours is a few pics down.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg072121352923.html?4

It is "rolled in the bud" and that is the only ID characteristic I can see from looking at that photo. Most commonly 'up north' that is an annual rye (would go to seed and then die out in hot summer weather--I doubt it is an annual Rye) OR a Tall Fescue. There may be some other choices down south that I am unaware of having never lived or worked there.

KEY ID feature of all TALL FESCUES is a serrated blade edge that will bite at your skin when you stroke your fingers down the blade edges from TOP to BOTTOM. You can also see this with a 10X hand lens.

Tall fescues are considered transition zone grasses and grow best from southern PA through the Virginias to (perhaps) the Carolinas. Further north or south I'd expect it to be called a weed as it does not like those weather extremes. In northern turf it can be either a desired turfgrass or a weed. More common varieties are very wide-bladed and can stick out when mixed with Bluegrasses, Rygrasses or other (fine bladed) fescues. My backyard has a lot of TF as I've incorporated it intentionally to help with the adverse growing conditions--southwest exposed slope (full afternoon sun), thinner soil and some sporadic shaded areas. In my front yard (100% 'Midnite' Kentucky bluegrass), any TF would be most unwelcome. Both lawns are nice. The front gets full sun, is irrigated regularly and has 8" of top soil--optimum conditions for Kentucky bluegrass.

additional note:

Regardless of what it actually is...Only some non-selective control like Round-up would work on it. If you go spraying in the lawn, you will have some repairs to do. It (MAY) be possible to apply a non-selective control selectively to minimize collateral damage to the desired turf.

IF the offending grass ever sticks its 'head' up above the desired turf, wick application or careful shielding of the desired turf from overspray can work. To "wick on" round-up, get a rubber glove and then place a cotton glove over top of it. Wet the cotton glove and 'pet' the offending weed while trying to avoid touching the desired turf. If you can bruise the weed slightly...so much the better. Follow up with seeding or plugging to fix the spot (whatever is most appropriate for you turf type). Shielding involves using 2 or more cardboard sheets to protect the desired turf from overspray while allowing the 'weed" to stick up through at the seams where the sheets meet. Place cardboard carefully, expose weeds, protect turf and then spray carefully so as to only spray the weeds. Come back later (when dry) and pick up the cardboard. Then repair where needed to replace the weed.