Honda HRM215 Lawn Mower Wheel Problem
harry_wild
16 years ago
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bill_kapaun
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agobill_kapaun
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
How to Fix Honda HRM215 Lawn Mower
Comments (12)I just "inherited" a Honda HRM215SXA lawn mower which I am told runs great but has transmission issues. I am somewhat of a "shade-tree mechanic" and I would like to fix this thing myself. Does anyone know where I might find a parts list with corresponding part numbers? I downloaded an Owners Manual, but that does not contain a parts list or any exploded views. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I own one of these and was having problems with the self-propelled skipping-jumping in and out of gear. It was the cable adjustment at the top near the handle. Start with that, if it will not move (and it's the harmony model) check that the drive belt is on the thing and not broken. Transmissions on these are pretty durable. Usually cable adjustment or belt....See MoreResurrect, or start over? Honda HRM215 (old) or new 21" push?
Comments (7)@ bluemower - Thanks very much for reply! Absolutely would be easier to decide on this, if I had better knowledge of the old mower's "ailments" :). The challenge is finding a person/shop local to me who knows Hondas and is willing to honestly assess the condition of my mower for the problems you listed above. Some big shops in my area don't have the best reputation with customers. They tend to push sales of the equipment they carry, rather than stand behind decent repair service. Contacted a few smaller places I found via Internet searches today, which say they can service any mower make/model. I'm asking directly whether they can repair/rebuild older Hondas. Hope #1 is for the HRM215 to be repaired at affordable cost - and before the front yard becomes a meadow. :-) I do agree with what you said, that the old mower is several notches in quality above most of the basic push mowers available. Decision-making is tough since I really want to avoid being "penny-wise and pound-foolish" and end up with a new mower which turns out to be a throw-away in a few years' time. However, we've only had two mowers since 1987 (a Craftsman and then the Honda), so I don't have any experience on how quality's changed among the different brands. Labor outsourcing, materials used, all those things have been impacted while the companies chase profit margins... If a new TB130 or 7021P would run me $250-$300 before tax, what's the prudent "break point" on repair costs for the Honda to where you'd say, go buy a newer mower? If the repair expense tipped the decision, what push mower would you steer me toward? Is there a middle price range that significantly pops up the quality, or is there a lot of hype in the mix? I know residential-grade mowers lack the sturdiness of their commercial "big brothers", but perhaps there's a brand or two which has more consistency throughout its product lines? I'd be grateful hearing whether there are particular features that you'd swear by paying more $$ for, which help performance or life-span of the equipment, vs. optional stuff that creates more maintenance hassles than it's worth....See Morehonda hrm215 k3 sxa will not idle
Comments (3)See letter A in this picture and the one below. The cable gets clamped like that. Location B is the kill switch. If adjusted properly, the cable will close this switch just below the low speed setting at the handlebars. Location C is the idle adjustment screw and appears as a Phillips screw from the front of the mower. Location D is the governor spring. Location E is the linkage that will move upward and push up the linkage at location F. As the throttle cable is moved up to the choke position, the linkage (E) will push up the linkage (F) and the choke plate will just fully close as the throttle handle at the handlebars reaches its end. Any other adjustments are made at the cable adjuster on the handlebars...See MoreHonda HRM215 mower problem?
Comments (7)Honda used two clutch types, both friction, one had a cone, the other flat discs. The blade is held on with 2 bolts, remove them. The center bolt, holds the clutch to the crank. 3 outer bolts or nuts, hold the clutch assy to the deck. Once you slide the clutch assy off the crank, it will be fully exposed. Remove the spark plug, tip it on its side and pull it over. If the crank is bent, you'll see it. Because the crank is supported by the clutch assy, it would take a good hit to bend it. Hopefully it will be straight....See Moretomplum
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agofisher40037
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16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoharry_wild
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agofisher40037
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13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoHU-402192947
3 years ago
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