***"My question is what is the route of the gasoline from the overflowing bowl to the engine internal when the engine is shut off? It cannot be through the jet especially the main jet since the solenoid shuts it."*** The fuel cut off solenoid (afterfire prevention) indeed cuts off the flow of fuel through the main jet. But the carburetor has another "fuel jet" besides the main jet. There is a much smaller fuel jet known by various names, "pilot jet", "idle fuel jet", "low speed jet", "slow jet", to mention some of the aliases. To understand why a solenoid valve is employed to shut off the main jet fuel flow.....but leave the pilot jet "uncontrolled", requires an explanation of the intent of the "main jet cut off solenoid", and the correct way to shut down a running engine equipped with a fuel cut off solenoid. The fuel solenoid is there to prevent "afterfire explosion" (also erroneously called BACKfire) from occuring in the exhaust system when shutting down a hot engine. Shutting down of engines on OPE was once accomplished by simply "turning off" the spark ignition system and allowing the engine to stop as a result of "no combustion because of no spark". In those days, shut down was usually punctuated by a loud BANG as the engine managed to "have the last word". Because the carburetor feeds fuel to the engine by "venturi effect", the fuel will continue to flow out of the carb bowl and into the intake>cylinder>exhaust system as long as the engine continues to spin. Without a spark in the combustion chamber, combustion does not occur, and so the unburned gasoline is run through the cylinder, heated up by compression and absorbsion of heat from the surfaces in the cylinder. Then this heated fuel/air mix is expelled from the cylinder into the exhaust system (which is also still very hot, you could even say it glows). So long as the engine is still turning, the fuel/air is moving too fast out the exhaust system for the fuel portion of the mix to absorb enough heat to "spontaneously ignite". At the moment the engine comes to a halt, the fuel/air mix stops moving also. At this point, the fuel/air charge is stationary inside the hot exhaust system, and begins to absorb heat from the hot spots of the metal surfaces. When just one tiny portion of this fuel/air charge reaches the ignition temperature of gasoline.......KABOOM!, or at least, bang. HOW TO SHUT DOWN AN ENGINE THAT FEATURES A FUEL SOLENOID: While the engine is running at 50% RPM or more, TURN OFF the ignition switch. This cuts the current feeding the fuel solenoid valve, and the valve closes to seal the main jet. The engine spark ignition system remains fully functioning and keeps right on sparking inside the combustion chamber. The pilot jet continues to feed its measly little bit of fuel into the carb throat while the engine continues to "wind down toward zero RPM". Because the throttle was left in the open position, the fuel/air mix afforded by the tiny pilot jet is much too lean to support normal combustion, so the engine continues toward stopping. This extremely "lean" mix actually purges any last dregs of fuel that may have come out of the main jet at the moment the solenoid closed the main jet. This is how the fuel solenoid operates to prevent "afterfire" if proper shut down technique is used. The fuel that "drowns" an engine overflows from the carburetor bowl through the pilot jet, which is not controlled by the fuel solenoid. Venting and venturi effect would require still more consumption of time and bandwidth, but I'm game if you are. It will just have to be later as I'm outta time for today. :^)

Thank you fearboy for such a quick reply! I have already been able to acquire both the owner's/service manual and the illustrated parts reference online. The parts guide is even linked to the B&S store so I can order virtually everything I'll need...once I figure out exactly what all that is anyway. As you described, I had removed that plate with a 10mm wrench (gonna be asking Santa for a small metric deep socket set...) and saw down into the shafts. At the other end, I assume I was looking at the "cam followers". When I described my test while holding the pushrods "in place", I neglected to mention I did this both with that plate installed and removed. As I was in unfamiliar territory, I tried what I thought was how things would align...but with your fresh advice, I went back for a second look. I included an image this time. It's a shot of the top channel behind that plate through which the pushrods are installed. I believe what I'm looking at here is that the exhaust tappet (thanks for the correct verbiage tomplum) is the top circle... and I'm guessing the bottom circle (the center of the complete pushrod region) is a port for lubrication? I have another shot down the intake shaft and I can see another tappet for the intake pushrod. Aligning a pushrod into either tappet and hand-turning the flywheel produced absolutely no movement. Does anyone know if the cam lobes or gear teeth are ever known to fail or break? Are there any other possible explanations for why I can confirm piston movement but not valve movement? Again, before I commit to a tear-down, I'm hoping to rule out all less-involved repairs...actually, I'm hoping there IS some less-involved repair. Thanks again for all responses!

Okay, after taking a good ten deep, deep breaths, it hit me how to hang the panels soon after I hit submit message! Since we had dinner plans, I was trying to get ready to go out, and figure out how to hang at least one panel before doing so. My progress so far: First panel pressed and hung before leaving for dinner:) Following our lovely and very relaxing weeknight dinner out (rare treat) at our favorite neighborhood Italian spot, I have now pressed and hung the second panel on the first window, LR: By way of background, DH has never met a drapery treatment that he likes, (says drapes remind him of a coffin, lol). Therefore, I am only "framing" my front facing windows in the spirit of marital harmony, thus the use of only two panels on each double window. The Foyer and LR drapes will never be closed. However, DR drapes (back of house) will be closed in the evenings during the late fall/winter when the leaves are gone from the trees. I ordered 2 extra panels which I will hang in my office window which will also be closed in the evenings. Office window faces the front of the house as well. Silly pet peeve, I like the look of all window treatments seen from outside front of my home to be uniform. I know ~ crazy. After I posted, I sat down for a minute to re-think things, and again looked at the rod, the pockets, etc. More importantly, I tried to block my incessent need to use the rings. Only then was I able to get out of my own way, and see that I needed to hang the panels directly on the rod via the tabs on the back ~ Much as suggested in your responses to my original panic post, only being pressed for time, I didn't get to read all of the responses until we returned from dinner! I feel as though I have gotten the somewhat pleated look I was trying to achieve. These drapes were a JCP steal, so I was so hoping to "make it work". After Loribee's post on a fall reno of her LR, I was motivated to get to a much needed fall update with regard to my LR/DR/Foyer windows. Especially motivated as I am doing it on the cheap! Although I ordered both the Ivory and New Orleans Red, I will be keeping NOR, returning the Ivory. I originally thought I would use the Ivory, however, the gold in the pattern was off in color against my SW Blonde walls. Not the best of pics, but you can see that I have used some binder clips from my office to hold the panels tight at the bottoms. Using those and starching the panels when I pressed them, should take/keep the shape I am going for. I will remove the clips once the drapes conform to my plans.lol As soon as we returned from dinner, I checked to see if anyone had posted suggestions. Although I had pretty much had it figured out, (I'd hung the first panel before we headed out to dinner), it was great to see the quick responses! Many thanks to all who posted. So nice to come here with a question and get responses very quickly. As you may have surmised from my post, I am an instant gratification-type gal, thus, my love for this forum! Thanks again!

Hello...........I just ran across this statement. I realize the statement is 4 years old............but I'm hoping "dsbird" or someone else might have an answer to my question. I too, have a problem with my Intek not wanting to make it past "compression," and I was looking for a "work around" when I ran across this. "dsbird" states that "I torqued it up a bit tighter to avoid gasket blow-out," and I was wondering if someone might advise me as to how much "tighter" to go as I try this "double head gasket" manuver to see if it will work for me as well ? Thank you : )