Of course I'm not Auteck but I don't think he'd mind my jumping in with an opinion. Yea Milorganite is great for mid summer fertilizing especially if you are right about wet summer. I am using a lot of it this year right through the summer months.
Bill Hill

Jim,

If I'm not mistaken, is it you the one that overseeded a Bluegrass lawn in the Fall with TurfStar PRG? If so, Milorganite is not going to cut it. The measly 5-2-0 NPK isn't going to do much as far as appearance or performance (I'm not against organics at all just in case, just keeping it real) PRG and KBG are relatively heavy feeders, specailly the first year. KBG and PRG required about 4 to 6 lbs of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sf. on the first year, the following year can be 2 to 4 lbs.

As far as fertilizing in the summer, your summer temperatures are VERY mild, so as long as you have rainfall or are planning to water when mother nature does not provide, you can fertilize without a problem.

The key is not to fertilize too much or too little. Buy a measuring wheel, measure your yard/grass area, then use the following NPK formula during the summer: 18-24-12 Lesco in lieu of a soil test. This particular formula is slow release as far as nitrogen, so it will not hurt your turf. So you're really putting down 9% of nitrogen first, then the rest later. P and K are good for the grass during the summer months, it helps the grass plants with heat, drought, disease, root growth, etc.

Your summer temperatures are more or less equal to our Mid-Spring temperatures, mid 70's during the day with mid 50's at night.

We use Milorganite or nothing during the summer months here, even if is wet. Fungus is a problem here, too. Definatelly more challenging conditions for us vs the NC Mountains.

Yes I have the Turfstar. I did put out last week the Lesco Starter fertilizer. Was thinking with the rains that it would probably start wearing off around the middle of July. So it looks like maybe another round of the Lesco Starter at that time will carry thru til Fall then. I do need to do a soil test. Lawn has been lowered back down to 2.5 now and I think this is a height that it will stay at. Thanks for the info. Jim

auteck,

The ratio on the bag doesn't matter. If it's 5-2-0 then all that means is there is 5% N in that bag. If your goal is to apply 1.5 pounds of actual N per 1000 sq. ft than you just have to put more milorganite down. The grass doesn't care whether it's organic or not. Your lawn will look as good as any synthetic lawn, but it will take a little longer to notice the difference.

formicburn, auteck doesn't understand the basics about fertilizer. You are absolutely correct about the 5-2-0 not being a problem at all. If applied according to the label (which states a 36 lb. bag covers 2500 sq. ft.), you will be putting down 0.72 lbs. N per 1,000 sq. ft. That is under the usual 1.0 lbs. N per 1,000 sq. ft., so you could just apply it a little heavier to get closer to 1.0 lbs N.

I figured it by using the following:

36 lbs. / 2.5 (the 2500 sq. ft.) = 14.4 lbs of product per 1,000 sq. ft.
14.4 * 0.05 = 0.72 lbs. N per 1,000 sq. ft.

Another plus (besides the fact that it's best to use an organic fertilizer in Summer) is that Milorganite has 4% iron. So, when applying as directed, you're putting down 0.576 lbs. Fe per 1,000 sq. ft., which you'll definitely notice after about 15 days when the Milorganite is broken down.

Calling a fertilizer measly that has a lower N percent, without calculating how much N is actually going down in an application, is not a very accurate statement.

Pound per pound Milorganite has a measly amount of nitrogen compare to synthetic fertilizer, that's a very accurate statement; don't try to decieve the OP with your formulations.

If the OP has a 20,000 sf lawn and wants to apply 4 lbs of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sf, he will have to apply 400 lbs or Milorganite to achieve the same results as suppose to 80 lbs of 25-6-12 of synthetic fertilizer, for example.

formicburn, the ratio of the bag does matter. How else are you going to find out how much fertilizer you are going to need/apply. And you are correct, the grass does not care if organic or synthetic.

Jim, the Lesco starter fertilizer is slow release, it will carry you until late summer. The slow release is due to a Poly Plus technology, basically coated Amoniacal Nitrate and Urea that will breakdown over time. The P and K move very slowy thru the soil, so expect that to last the entire summer. Get that soil test ASAP, your soil could be fertile enough to just apply nitrogen.

Good job bringing the mower down to optimal height, I'm keeping mine at the same setting; looks great. What's your zip code?

You're right is has a smaller amount, but you made it sound as if it wasn't as good as synthetics. You wouldn't apply 4 pounds of N at one time anyways. The proportions only matter when determining how many pounds of N you're are going to use. Just because the N is smaller doesn't mean it wont work as well other fertilizers. It's how many pounds of N/1000 sq. ft. that determines how good a lawn will look after fertilizing not the brand name.

auteck, I'm not deceiving the OP at all; just showing the simple math that is obviously over your head. As formicburn, and I, have already mentioned it's the amount of N you're putting down that matters. Milorganite is slow release, as are all organic fertilizers, making it an excellent choice for a Summer fertilizer. The added iron makes it an even better choice as you don't really want to be putting a full pound of N down in the middle of Summer, and the iron will allow the grass to remain deep green without forcing it to grow.

Also, auteck, I don't think you're getting the OP's original question; he's looking for something to put down in mid-Summer. There's no reason he can't put down the Lesco during other times of the year, and use the Milorganite for mid-Summer as many of us do.

Jim, to answer your question, Milorganite would be an excellent choice for a mid-Summer application of fertilizer. With the 4% iron, you'll definitely see that deep green you're looking for. Also, I'd apply it as recommended, which will give you 0.72 lbs. slow release N / 1,000 sq. ft. - exactly what you want during Summer. You can focus on the larger applications in the Fall when 3/4 of the total N requirement should be put down anyways (in 2-3 fertilizings).

Auteck, you really should check your math before posting. You said:

If the OP has a 20,000 sf lawn and wants to apply 4 lbs of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sf, he will have to apply 400 lbs or Milorganite to achieve the same results as suppose to 80 lbs of 25-6-12 of synthetic fertilizer, for example.

400 lbs of 5-2-0 Milorganite = 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in a 20,000 sq. ft. lawn (not 4 lbs actual N per 1,000 sq. ft.).

80 lbs of 25-6-12 Lesco = 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in a 20,000 sq. ft. lawn (not 4 lbs actual N per 1,000 sq. ft.).

Again, it's up to the OP what he does, but the Milorganite will be a better choice for the Summer.

Skizot,

My math is perfect, the number of pounds per 1,000 sf (nitrogen) are always estimated per year and NOT per application as Formicburn stated.

Four pounds per 1,000 sf per year of nitrogen will be applied as follow, for example:

September = 1 lb
November = 1 lb
February = 1 lb
May = 1 lb

Total 4 lbs of actual nitrogen applied in 1 year.

If Jim were to use Milorganite for the entire year, he will need 1,600 lbs, or about 45 bags at $11.00 per bag $495.00 plus local taxes. Milorganite will ONLY work IF applied at the rate stated above during the summer months, 3 months actually. Jim is located in the NC Mountains where summer temperatures are in the 70's during the day, where you and I will be in the upper 80's to low 90's - that's a big difference. He doesn't need to use organics during the summer like you and I would.

The Lesco fertilizer is slow release as well, not to mention it cost $20 for a 50 lb bag of complete fertilizer.

Is really up to Jim what he wants to apply to his lawn, but he has already made that desicion, Lesco has been applied and not Milorganite.

For all practical purposes, Milorganite will be ideal for a small lawn, under 2,500 sf.

I don't want to get involved in this argument, but one other thing must be considered and that is costs.

400Lbs of Milorganite will run on average just under $150 - 12 bags and a little left over.
Lesco would cost under $50 for two 50Lbs bags and have 20Lbs left over.

Just a guesstimate - I'd say about $110 difference (considering left overs)for a single fertilizer app.

You gents are right - Milorganite aint "measly"

Gary, most people are not going to buy 12 bags of Milorganite @ 36 lbs each for a total of $132.00. Most people who fertilize their lawn will most always spend $40 for two bags of Lesco giving the choice - it's a no brainer unless you are a organic freak and must have organic.

There are reasons why most golf courses if not all and most if not all Lawn Care companies use synthetic fertilizer and not organic. Like I said earlier, the grass does not care one bit if is organic or synthetic, so why spend the extra money and carry the extra 10 bags to achieve more or less the same results.

Milorganite does not have any potassium in it, a VERY important chemical to turfgrass during stress from heat and/or disease - very common during the hot summer months.

Hello All,
Technical Stuff aside. I apply Scotts crabgrass control in the spring and Milorganite the rests of the year at a rate of 1 bag per 2500 square feet. So two bags a pop for my 5000 sq foot of lawn $20. Similar to a bag of Scott's that covers 5000 sq ft.

Lets not forget the added benefits of organics such as natural dethatching, slow release and envrionmental goodness! The only thing with Milorganite is the timing. Warmer weather breaks it down faster and cooler weather slows it down. plan your fertilizing accordingly so your bilogical organisms don't run out of food to eat, which would in turn deplete the amount of nitrogen and iron available to your lawn.

I compare organic and synthetic fetalizer to processed white flour and whole grain wheat flour. White processed flour has simple sugars readily avialable for the body to process. The result a quick burst of energy but a faster ramp to fatigue. Whereas you grass gets a great boost of green but when she runs out she gets yellowed and thin. Whereas the whole grain flour isn't as easy for your body to break down it provides a sustained level of consistent energy for your body without the steep decline.

My KGB Blend Bedazzled, moonlight and Blue Velvet has never looked better!

{{gwi:100507}}
{{gwi:100508}}

Sorry about ramblin on, just wanted to let you know that i am having success with Milorganite as a primary means of nutrition for my KBG blend.

Best of luck to you.

...Lets not forget the added benefits of organics such as natural dethatching, slow release and envrionmental goodness...

I compare organic and synthetic fetalizer to processed white flour and whole grain wheat flour. White processed flour has simple sugars readily avialable for the body to process. The result a quick burst of energy but a faster ramp to fatigue. Whereas you grass gets a great boost of green but when she runs out she gets yellowed and thin. Whereas the whole grain flour isn't as easy for your body to break down it provides a sustained level of consistent energy for your body without the steep decline.

Very well said, and awesome job on your lawn.

I'm not an organic freak by any means, but I understand why organic fertilizer is a good thing for the soil, which is what supports plant growth. Some people cannot grasp that concept though.

The dark green color or your KBG looks good, however, it looks like you're mowing too high. How high are you mowing?

KBG optimal mowing height is 2.5 inches, anything north of that and starts to look lik Tall Fescue.

Anyway, if Milorganite works for you, then continue using that.

Skizot, your point is very well understood, don't jump into conclusions next time and keep your cool.

If you're so concern about organic matter in your soil, then get some cubic yards of compost and topdress your lawn with it.

Here in Raleigh, 6 cubic yards of compost will cost you $147 delivered to your driveway. That will give 20 times more organic matter than 20 years of putting down Milorganite during the summer months; not to mention it will still save you $$$.

For me, the most important benefit of using organic fertilizers vs synthetic, is that organics don't have sulfur which can lower your soil PH over time in high rainfall areas/states like NC.

Economy is a factor as the Lesco Starter covered 12,000 sq ft for $22.00. Can Milorganite compete with that price as that would make it a viable alternative. Also maybe we could see photos of yards on Milorganite vs. Lesco so we can actually compare. I am not hung up on yard being organic or synthetic. Bottomline is just want it to looks it best at all times.

Jim, what's your zip code and sq ft of your lawn?

Zip is 28715 but station that reports that info is 10 miles and 500 feet lower than me, in other words it is much warmer than my location. Square feet is just under 13,000.

Milorganite isn't the only biosolids fertilizer option. Lesco's website shows that they have 5-4-0 TAMPA GRANULITE BIOSOLIDS BULK available by the ton for $162.71 (that's using my Bham AL login info). Of course, the logistics in picking up that quantity and spreading and/or storing it at a residence might outweigh the low price.