I'm not sure what kind of suggestions you are looking for. The Chlorothalonil will work. You can buy it in powdered form or liquid.
5lbs of Daconil Ultrex with weather-stick will cost around 80 - 100 dollars. It is applied at four ounces per 1000 sqft every 7-14 days.

2.5 gallons of Quali-Pro with weather-stick is around 110-150 dollars.

There are many different trade names of fungicides available that contain Chlorothalonil. If you have a Lesco or other Golf-course or turf supply store nearby, this would be your best bet.

> "At this point I'm leaning toward a last ditch effort in resorting to Chlorothalonil fungicide, or something similar. "

I know this will sound surly, and I'm not saying, I'm just saying - maybe the next time this happens, going organic will be the last ditch effort, eh?

You know, those guys that research and develop chemicals like herbicides and fungicides aint stupid ... (like me!)

-

and as for organic - If you're scared .... get a dog.

I've never had many problems with fungus (living in the desert has some advantages, after all), but my understanding of the way that corn works on fungus is that it actually encourages fungal growth, but the fungi that it encourages will eat the bad fungi. So it's not really a good plan to mix and match. If you used anti fungal products in the past, the corn meal will take longer to help and will also probably take more applications.

I never had treated with fungicides prior to using corn...
but was wondering if there might be any "cheaper" alternatives than the $80+ commercial chemicals. I took a look and it seems that Spectracide mades a hose end attachment called Immunnox which can be found at most retailers...any knowledge about this product?

I've used it and it seems to at least control the fungus for the present time. I didn't lose any grass like I did last year, but you have to realize that if you're getting as much rain as I am (5" the day before, 1.5" yesterday, and so forth), one (1) application ain't gonna get it. If it's not on the label, I'd apply at least some kind of fungicide every 2-3 weeks as long as you're having monsoon type rains with warm days and cooler nights.

"...was wondering if there might be any 'cheaper' alternatives than the $80+ commercial chemicals."

If you google "brown patch" you will find hundreds of university, cooperative extension, and other fact sheets on the disease. One that I looked at recommended these chemical treatments, which are labeled for brown patch on turf: thiophenate methyl, chlorothalonil, myclobutanil, and triadimefon.

Thiophenate methyl is the chemical in Scott's Lawn Fungus Control. Chlorothalonil is Daconil or Ortho Garden Disease Control. Myclobutanil is Spectracide Immunox. Triadimefon is Bayer Advanced Lawn Fungus Control. All are readily available at garden centers and big box stores.

When all else fails, read the label.

Before using any chemical, be sure it's labeled for your type of grass.

Since we are each and every one of us a know-it-all with the correct solution, You are getting highly varied methods of eradicating your Brown Patch. Let me advise you that the Daconil and other Chlorothalonil based products available in Garden stores are very weak. Generally speaking they are 12-28% Chlorothalonil. This is why they are available in Garden centers. If you go this route, I would triple the dosage for best results.

Ground grains will take a minimum of 3 week to see any results. Cracked corn is going take longer, much longer.

Basically what happens is the CM attracts/grows Trichoderma fungus, which is a good fungus. It helps fight the bad fungus which in your case is Brown Patch.

There was a post awhile back that explained how to grow your own Trichoderma Fungus with Used Coffee Grounds. Basically you store the damp UCG in a black garbage bag, loosely closed in your garage for a few days. You will start to notice a forest green mold growing on it. This is the Trichoderma Fungus. Try to do a search on Garden web for the link.

For now I would just get the 2lb bags of CM from the grocery store and apply it to the affected areas and just beyond @ 20lbs per 1000sqft. On top of that I would also spray ACT weekly, or lightly dust the areas with compost.

"Chlorothalonil based products available in Garden stores are very weak. Generally speaking they are 12-28% Chlorothalonil. This is why they are available in Garden centers. If you go this route, I would triple the dosage for best results."

The percentage of the concentrate is only one variable; the mixing and application rates on the labels also must be compared to recommend a dosage amount.

For example, if you had a 100 percent concentrate that was mixed one part concentrate to three parts water and a 50 percent concentrate that was mixed one to one, you end up with the same application strength.

That said, the garden fungicide (29.6%) label won't be much help anyway because the product isn't labeled for turf (so no turf instructions--nothing to double or triple). For what it's worth, the old pint concentrate (29.6 %) for turf label used to say "covers up to 2,000 square feet." So the max recommended rate was 4 fl. oz. per 1,000 sf. (I found the old label in an internet search once upon a time and made a note of it--can't find the link again now.)

"covers up to 2,000 square feet. So the max recommended rate was 4 fl. oz. per 1,000 sf."

Sorry, I should have written 8 fl. oz., of course.

Suppose applying a chemical at three times the proper suggested rate for a purpose they can't even recommend it for at all anymore legally is why some say chemical approaches are usually not the best?

Wait for cool weather, re-establish the grass with a grass that is best for the fungal diseases and climate you have and try to avoid over fertilizing it and watering it incorrectly. Or, nuke it with chemicals at rates and in ways not recommended by the folks allowed to sell it. Decisions, decisions.

@Glenforest. Thanks for the math lesson. 4 ounces per 1000 sqft is the minimum industry standard for most liquid flowables. The package of Daconil Ultrex that I am holding in my hand states.... Application rate of 4-8 ounces per 1000 sqft suspended in 1-2 gallons of water depending on disease pressure. The Daconil Ultrex is 89.7% Chlorothalonil. So again.. Chlorothalonil branded products sold in garden centers are weak. For BEST RESULTS I reccommend that the OP triple the dosage of the product.

And you guys are 100% correct. The label also clearly states "For use on Golf course Fairways, Tees, and Greens. Turf Farms and other ornamental turf applications. Not intended for residential lawn use." I'm just not scared I guess. I also am able to apply and store these products correctly. No kids or pets in my neighborhood have died. No invertebrates in my area have been adversely effected either, to my knowledge.

Again.... We can ALL be right. Lets just not get too self-righteous about it. Different people yearn for a different outcome with their turf.

Again.... We can ALL be right. Lets just not get too self-righteous about it. Different people yearn for a different outcome with their turf.

So VERY true. Tolerance is one of the things I'm working on.

I get brown patch every year and corn meal works for me every year. In Texas if you read the bottle and try to apply a commercial chemical fungicide, the only day of the year when all the temperature and rain forecast conditions are met is January 17th. Unfortunately fungus hits in the summer when it is too hot, too dry, too wet, or too uncertain to apply the chemicals. That's why I tried the corn meal, which has no environmental restrictions on the use. Fortunately for me it works.

It does take THREE FULL weeks to see the results with corn meal. I realize that is a problem when your lawn is melting away in front of you. I had the same issue when I used chemicals. I'd ignore the label temps and such and apply anyway. A week later it was worse so I'd try something else (and ignore the warning). At this point I would be out about $80 and my grass continued to melt away.

The back-up "organic" cure for fungal disease is baking soda. While it is approved for organic use, it is a non selective fungicide and really is not good for your soil. Still, it kills most diseases and leaves the soil ready for an expensive treatment with compost (or inexpensive treatment of compost tea). I'm not sure what the application rate is because I've never had to use it. I believe they dissolve it in water and spray it on. Just guessing at a starting app rate I would try 3 ounces per gallon of final spray. I was never good with dilutions and mixtures in school, so good luck getting that right :-)

Thanks for the laugh dchall! I have no doubt that the approaches you guys are using work well. Otherwise I can't see the number of posts reccommending cornmeal or other material being as high as they are. If you've got that stuff down prior to the disease pressure setting in, AND your lawn is not already on a healthy regimen of synthetic fertilizer, chemical fungicides, and wetting agents, I believe you guys when you say it works! I would just never be able to pull it off. I suspect kicking the life-support chemical addiction my turf has would be akin to kicking heroin.