Cleaning out with air is not good enough - the small bleed MUST be manually rodded. Even carb spray is ineffective, but is okay to blow out any residue after rodding with the soft steel wire tie. Also, try this; Start the mower - use it to cut grass for at least five minutes, not just sitting. Turn it off for one minute (about the time it takes to empty a bag), then try to restart. If it starts under these conditions, you really don't need to do anything yet but you may in the future. Mowers today run very lean, and depending on the ambient temperature, can cool off enough in five minutes to need the choke to restart. Also, if the gas you're using is over thirty days old and was not stabilized when fresh, you should replace it with fresh stabilized fuel. I always buy mid-grade gas for my equipment because the volatiles in the fuel tend to vent everytime the can is opened. This way maybe I keep the fuel at minimum octane requirement as long as it lasts, which for me is almost all summer. Once you get the carb clean and the mower runs right, always use a fuel stabilizer/cleaner in your mower gas can, along with some Marvel Mystery Oil, 1 oz/gal to 2 oz/gal. You can add MMO to your 2-cycle can, up to 4 oz/gal in addition to the regular oil mix. All engines love this stuff.

Try replacing the diaphragm. 3.75 Briggs carb rebuild This is an easy DIY job to replace the diaphragm of the carburetor. A damaged diaphragm will cause engine surging, hard starting, and erratic high speed operation. You may also notice that the primer bulb isnt working properly. This is an overview of the carburetor and these types of carb-over-tank are typical of small Briggs engines. Note the two governor springs. The carb/tank assembly is held in place by a ½" bolt to the left of the carb and a 3/8" bolt on the engine head to the right. Remove both bolts and pull the tank straight out with a rocking motion. If possible, the carb/tank assembly should be blown off with compressed air and all loose dirt removed. Use the proper safety equipment, especially safety glasses, before using any compressed air in any of the steps below. In the highlighted area you will see the governor linkage still in the throttle plate of the carburetor. You will have to gently separate the carb/tank assembly from the linkage. It is a Z type linkage. It is not necessary to remove the springs or the other end of the linkage, from the governor. Note that on the rear of the carburetor is found a white plastic ring and O ring. Sometimes these remain on the tube of the engine housing. If so, place them back into the carburetor body, as shown, before reinstalling the carb/tank to the engine. Note the raised area of the diaphragm. This is caused by age, but more often, by ethanol fuels, which damage the diaphragms. A damaged diaphragm will cause engine surging, hard starting, and erratic high speed operation. You may also notice that the primer bulb isnÂt working properly. Shown here are the dip tube, which brings up gas from the tank, in the bottom left corner. Just behind that and partially obscured, is the orifice that compressed air can be used to clear the dip tube of debris. It also leads to the primer bulb, so any air must be low pressure and the primer bulb must be held in the depressed position to prevent it from blowing out. In the center top, youÂll notice the jet, surrounded by a wire mesh filter. In the bottom right is a spring. Be careful to not lose the spring or forget to install it during reassembly. Remove the old gasket and diaphragm combo from the carb body. Install a new gasket/diaphragm on the smooth surface of the tank. I always blow out the tank with compressed air to remove dirt and any water. Be aware that there may also be old gas in the tank. I always empty the tank and let it sit in the sun until all the gasoline evaporates before applying compressed air. Align the carb and lower it down on top of the gasket, trying to keep the five screw holes in the gaskets aligned. Insert the screws and partially tighten them and install all five screws. Tighten each screw until it gently bottoms out. Then turn each screw another quarter turn. It is not necessary to use more than a few inch pounds of torque on these screws. Reinstall in reverse order. When installing, be sure to engage the breather tube with the rubber piece on the carburetor.

I cant tell you on a Bosch, but I just watched the repairman disassemble annd replace the control panel and computer on my dryer -- a whirlpool. He was telling me that others had screws on the back that let you remove that console, but on this particular one (the Senseon that was sold with the Calypso about 7 yrs ago), there are metal tabs that loop down from the top and insert into the base of the dryer -- a spring action clip. Both of them fell into the dryer when he took it off, but he was abel to get them back with needle nose pliers. On the washer, there is a hidden screw underneath the logo strip on the front of the washer that hase to be loosened to get into the machine. I know neither of these are your machine, but maybe they'll help you have ideas about where to look. Good luck!

You may want to provide an engine model number. it has been decades since there has been a diaphragm type carb built with a choke. You said "primed it good"- so if you meant you used a primer bulb it doesn't have a choke. That would be the throttle plate then. If that is the case remove the carb, clean everything out of the tank, throw the cleaner away and install a new diaphragm kit. Prime several times to get the cleaner out and keep away from the diaphragm. The diaphragm goes against the tank and the gasket above.When it is assembled and back on the engine, be sure the small governor spring is hooked up to the control or tab and fill with fresh fuel. It should prime and run. If it leaks when to prime , post back.