You might want to consider that the HD/Lowes/Wal-marts dont service their products. Which means you will still have to take them to the authorized dealer, who may or may not take it or you may not be a priority. You will pay a little more but you are set up better in the long run. You might try working a deal for extra blades etc, for throwing him some business. Never hurts to ask. They also have a recommended price from the factory, which he then marks up. Sorta like buying a car. Haggle with em.....

See my feedback on the other board as well Jim. The old rule is the installer is 75% of the process and the product is 75%. Obviously the math doesn't add up but it goes to show that they are both equally important and just as significant. While most installers don't usually know the real deep ins and outs of window performance, they know what is a quality product by handling it. If you know of a good installer, the hope is that they would have a very good idea as to a solid window in the area as well.

I disagree with the above two statements. You don't have to show your max, but in a competitive market where there are more buyers than available properties, if you put in an offer showing you are only approved for the amount of your offer, you are very likely to get passed over in favor of a stronger buyer. This does not mean showing $300k on a pre-approval for a $250k offer. It means showing more than $250k. If you come in exactly at the offer price, as an agent, we know that any bump along the way could very well derail your loan. Bump would be an increase in the payment due to property taxes being higher than anticipated or actual insurance premium costs throwing you over your allowed DTI (this is especially relevant where I am in Florida). If you were to show $275k as an example on a $250k offer we would be less concerned about your approval turning into a denial. Note that the seller can not ever force you to pay more than you offer. They can counter offer - but then it is up to you to accept, reject or counter. It is a myth that showing you are a strong buyer means you pay more. In fact, I have seen sellers skip over a higher offer in order to accept the lower offer with the stronger buyer because they know it has a better chance of closing. What good does it do to accept an offer from a weak buyer? From the seller's POV - nothing but waste time. If you say that you are totally maxed out at the offer price, that makes you a weak buyer that is likely to not close. The reason I equate the two items; showing you are maxed out at the offer price equating to a weak buyer, is because in no instance in the financial world is being maxed out credit-wise a good thing.

I only have a couple of suggestions: ”We will be staining the floor to be a darker color.” I don’t recommend this. Dark floors are a maintenance nightmare. They show every speck. You will have to clean them constantly because a couple of specks look so glaring against a dark floor they’ll make it seem as if the entire floor is not clean. I am not exaggerating, so mark my words. Meanwhile, the natural stain that is on the floor now shows nothing. I’d keep it if possible. ”Any ideas on backsplash?” Backsplash must be chosen last, after everything else is installed, especially after the counters. Even seasoned interior designers with decades of experience wait to install the backsplash. If you try to pick a backsplash too early you will make a mistake. ”The current island is 3x4. What island size do you recommend?” It is impossible to answer this question without having precise measurements of the kitchen. Anyone who says they can answer this question without drawn-to-scale kitchen measurements you should run far far away from. Plus are you going to have seating or not at the island will certainly affect island size. There are also aisle clearances to keep in mind, and things like can you open the oven door with a bigger island, and what about the flooring under the island what happens to that, and what about seating and counter overhangs for seating, and what about electrical for the island as there are building Code requirements for electrical in the island. As mentioned in the post above, don’t dive in too fast or you will regret it. Though I don’t think you need 6-12 months; I think 3-6 months should give you an idea of what you like and don’t like about the kitchen. It will also help to have the time to research and learn some things about kitchen renovation. In any case, lead times for contractors are, like, 4-6 months these days, so you won’t be able to implement changes in a short time in any case.