If you want to rule out the valve issue, then just roll this tractor to where your car is. Put a set of booster cables on the car battery. Put the positive cable onto the terminal on the starter that has the heavy cable attached to it. Take the negative booster cable and press it firmly against the engine block or tractor chassis with the ignition key in the "ON" position. If the engine spins over easily and starts, remove the negative cable from the engine block or tractor frame. Try this a few times. If you get the same results, then you just proved two things. 1. The valves are likely adjusted correctly 2. Your tractor has a seperate starting solenoid somewhere. So let's pretend that the above scenario has occurred. Next step. Take the booster cable off of the starting mower. Trace the heavy wire that is on the starter motor back to the starter solenoid. Put the positive booster cable onto the OTHER big terminal on this solenoid. Clamp the negative booster cable lead to a clean spot on the engine block or the tractor frame so that it makes good electrical contact. Now try starting the tractor with the keyswitch. If the clicking noise is still there, the a new solenoid should solve the problem. The clicking sound is the solenoid pulling in. However, the round disc inside the solenoid is not making proper electrical contact and needs to be replaced.

I have detailed instructions for adjusting valves IF you would like them. Address below, put in proper format and include model number of engine and what you want. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com

Hi All, especially mownie Thanks for the info on the hydro stat. You are correct. I did dig out a manual from Toro's website that is more detailed than the mower's ! It says the units do not require fluid's at any interval but should be checked from time to time (oxy-moron) They have conveniently provided a 30 inch garden hose that stands up into the frame for expansion only (when the oil gets hot), but it is only possible to check the level by "removing the entire hydro assembly from the mower chassis ! You are right. Then if the oil is degraded, yes, turn it upside down. My feelings are that the right hydro may have leaked some of it's oil and be low, thus causing the mower to pull to the right. The reason is that the right hydro had some oil discharge under the grass cake. So while I have the engine and belts off, I will remove the hydro assembly and service with the Royal Purple Brand. There is nothing better than taking advice from an expert on such things. Thanks. Okay, here's the update. I managed to get the engine out of the bay today after first removing blade belts, hydro belts, PTO clutch assembly, carb, cables etc. Taking off the sump cover/ crank case cover, I peered inside and could immediately see the exhaust cam lobe touching the cam follower. When I looked at the other cam lobe, it was almost circular ! Pulling the camshaft out and examining, I was floored ! There was hardly any indication that the cam was EVER an oval, as it looked round. I could see minimal burring on the edge, but other that that nothing. I had changed oil after my initial problems started happening 2 weekends ago, and the old oil looked dark, but it was almost a full 48 oz load, so it never got low. The new oil I drained before tearing the engine was golden, BUT there was graphite like sludge at the bottom of the crank case and crank cover. So my cam lobe must have been made of #2 pencil lead ! I've taken plenty of pictures if anyone ever wants to see a worn cam lobe, but have no way of posting to this thread. I may try putting them up on my MobileMe site and list the url for you guys. Thanks for the prompt and accurate responses. You guys rock. I'll order parts tomorrow (or try my local lawn mower repair place to see if they carry), and assemble as soon as I get them. In the meantime, I'll clean the thing up while it's on my garage floor. Lastly - The engine speed governor device isn't exactly obvious to put back - Any pointers? Torq settings on crank and head bolts? is 15 ft/lbs? Any particular order ? The camshaft does have the dot stamped in it, but it wasn't obvious what it lined up with at TDC. I had out the engine at TDC before tearing down, and when I looked at the camshaft, the dot was at about 2 o'clock. Should it have lined up with something else?

I can't see how adjusting the valves would be related to blowing a head gasket. IF the gasket was "slightly blown" AND the intake valve lash was so loose that the cylinder wasn't getting a full "charge" of air on the intake stroke, than possibly allowing the engine to develop more power than it had been, might have been enough to put the gasket "over the edge". That's getting to be quite a stretch though and still wouldn't be the root cause. Besides, you'd probably have trouble starting the engine for multiple reasons. (compression release not functioning amongst them) How would putting the piston @ BDC be useful? IF you are going to change the head gasket, you want the piston in a position where both push rods are loose. The fact you asked that question makes me wonder about the procedure you used to adjust the valves.