successive ripening blackberry varieties?
lsoh
10 years ago
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drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
10 years agolarry_gene
10 years agoRelated Discussions
poll- sweetest blackberry variety
Comments (6)I found the paper, see link below. It turns out Waldo was in fact the highest brix in that study but it is a pretty uncommon variety. This study only has trailing varieties. The erect ones are in the 10-11 brix range. Below is a table I found online with non-trailing varieties; fourth column is brix with apologies for formatting. I would say 11.4 for Triple Crown vs 13.1 for Marion is not a huge difference, but it would easily be detected by the taste. These tables also have acidity, which I would say is not very accurate given the strong dependence on when harvested, but it could tell something. Similarly the sugars data is probably not the most accurate given vagaries of harvest timing. Scott Variety Berry diameter (mm) / Berry height (mm) / Berry mass (g) / Soluble Solids (°Brix) / Titratable acidity (mg/g)a / °Brix/acid ratio / Citric acid (g/kg) / Malic acid (g/kg) Adrienne 16.9 20.1 3.8 14.1 13.1 1.08 6.5 4.9 Apache 26.4 34.4 13.3 11.7 16.4 0.71 1.1 11.5 Black satin 24.1 25.5 6.8 9.3 13.9 0.67 ND 15.7 Babak 22.6 27.0 8.3 7.0 16.5 0.42 ND 15.1 Chesapeake 24.2 31.6 14.8 10.5 15.5 0.68 2.1 13.0 Chester 22.9 26.0 7.8 7.5 18.8 0.40 ND 14.2 Helen 19.3 24.2 6.2 10.9 21.3 0.51 16.7 5.6 Hull Thornless 22.5 27.9 8.6 9.8 13.8 0.71 ND 9.8 Kotata 19.3 26.8 6.1 11.4 18.1 0.63 15.9 4.0 Loch Ness G 26.1 28.9 9.9 10.6 15.8 0.67 ND 11.3 Loch Ness P 18.4 18.5 3.8 12.4 10.1 1.23 ND 8.3 Lochtay 20.5 22.8 5.7 10.5 10.1 1.04 2.3 8.1 QDE-1 18.3 21.7 5.1 10.7 17.7 0.60 11.1 4.1 QDE-2 22.1 25.5 6.4 11.0 16.7 0.66 10.4 4.7 Silvan 19.3 28.0 6.8 11.6 16.1 0.72 12 4.4 Triple Crown 24.2 29.6 10.4 11.4 17.2 0.66 ND 15.8 Scott Here is a link that might be useful: blackberry article...See MoreFruit trees/successive ripening in AZ
Comments (5)Fruitnut tipped me off to your post. You do not say where in Arizona you are so I will keep my comments general. I am only in the beginning of my third year in BYOC. I have well over 200 fruit and nut trees planted in a half acre that includes a 2,200sq ft. home in a flood irrigated lot. Planting trees together in a hole works well as far as growth goes. It is still too early to say about fruit production as only a dozen or so trees (mostly peach/nectarine) set fruit their second season and I stripped all of those off as soon as I spotted them as the trees are too young to be fruiting. Have the people who are dissing BYOC tried it?---I bet not. They simply go with the claim that trees must be planted 10 or more feet apart, blah, blah, blah. Nothing like 800+ peaches on a tree that you have to get eaten/processed/given away within 10 days period before it rots! High density planting works in Phoenix. Greg Peterson at Urban Farm has over 80 fruit trees on his 1/3 acre (with 1,750 sq ft home) most planted three feet apart along boundary lines. But I do not think he has any multiples to a hole. If you are in the Phoenix area you can ask him tomorrow (Wednesday). Be warned, he is whom got me started---I only attended a class of his 3 years ago to plant maybe 2-4 trees, and look at me now. http://www.urbanfarm.org/ http://www.phoenixpermaculture.org/events/fruit-trees-with-greg-peterson-9 Basically the limits IMHO are soil (usually not as bad as people always claim, the summer, if you go with tropicals the winter depending upon the temps it gets at your place, your current resources, your planned resources, how you lay things out, the varieties (cultivars) and species you chose and the rootstocks you get them upon and finally your practices. The results are dependent upon proper pruning and a reasonable amount of observation and care (fertilizing and pesticide). In addition to the two links above, the other resources are Googling both your County Cooperative Extension and Master Gardeners. The Arizona Rare Fruit Growers as well if in Phoenix area. And I rather like local nurseries as well for answering pest, and other questions appropriate to your area. edit: I suppose I should make it clear almost all of my fruit trees are planted 4 to a hole, 18" apart and 7' between holes. My target height is 8'. I keep rootstocks and species the same in a hole if I can, but not seems to work too. You can plant trees within 6" of one another effectively growing them into a single trunk down the line, and straight up or slightly angled out from one another. Tom Spellman prefers 3' apart for easier pruning. I cluster cross pollinating close to make it easy on the insects. If you live in the zone 9b and 10 areas, and possibly the 9a areas, there is no summer pruning. Once it hits above 85F the trees stop growing so there is no need to prune in the summer. You prune just before summer to let some air and light into the canopy by keep in mind shading the trunk is numero uno. Paint trees white with water based latex (50% diluted works too) to protect from sunburn. Heavy organic mulch at least 4" to protect roots from temps and desiccation and improve soil life and fertility---I use predominately wood chips. I have not had a great deal of success with nut trees. I have pecans for a primary canopy and almonds for a western shade on the house. Remember self fruitful is great but across pollinator usually produces more and larger fruit. In some cases more seeds. If you live in zone 8/9/10 Arizona you can grow darned near anything except some berries without too much fuss. The sky is the limit. And with proper selection you can have both year round gardening and fresh fruit. Here is another BY orchard class on the 26th in the Phoenix area, by one of the most ingenious people I have met: http://www.meetup.com/GardenPool-org/events/141868522/ Here is a link that might be useful: You might want to start reading here This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Tue, Oct 15, 13 at 15:27...See MoreBlackberry varieties for Kansas
Comments (4)Clarkinks-. Thank you so much for the links and advice. I really appreciate it! I don't want to put time and resources into plants that won't thrive. When I read nursery descriptions, it sounds like most varieties are great choices, but I know that is not the case. I had wanted thornless (of course!!) but according to your advice and if my own few plants are any indication, the thorned plants are MUCH hardier. We have droughts, heavy rains , soil that holds water, high winds, hot sun, and cold winters. I had to chuckle at your description. Kinda makes you wonder why anyone wants to live here!! But God made a beautiful place when he made Kansas. I do love it here. Over time and with help, I hope to figure out what will thrive here and what won't. I am always encouraged by the success others share here, and in more harsh environments than ours....See MoreHelp me select blackberry varieties for Texas (west of Ft Worth)
Comments (8)Linda, You should have over a 1000 hours chill so should be plenty for any blackberry varieties. Blackberries can take a little shade and should even benefit from some relief from afternoon sun. The hardest thing is going to be the hot temperatures. I lived in that area for about 15 years and the temperatures are much higher than where I am now. However, the summers are better where you are because it never cools down in the summer in Beaumont. Even at night it may be in the upper 80s with high humidity, with the only breeze coming from the mosquitoes wings. Blackberries do require irrigation in the summer. Inkfin, You are probably a little too far south for Triple crown. Prime Ark Freedom should be ok with your chill hours. Heritage Red raspberry has done the best. Anne has survived for my but I am a little cooler temperature wise than you are by 3 or 4 degrees I would guess. I have Baba berry, Did not do well the first year but looks better this year. I will see if it makes it till fall for an autumn harvest. None of them can take the hot afternoon sun after about 3 or 4 oclock. You could try to spray with surround kaolin clay. It would keep the leaves cooler and that would help. If it gets too hot temperature wise it may also kill the raspberries. Temperatures over 100 are tough on them. With all our humidity it only gets over 100 a few days, usually less than 5 or 6 days. Humidity kills me but does help the raspberries. I had mysore last year. It does well in winter and spring but does not like temperatures under 30 degrees. It has to have afternoon shade. Its thorns are sharp and w.iell reach out and get you. It died when the temperature got in the upper 90s. I thought of spraying with surround but the thorns were so bad I was kind of gland when it died. Fruits was not bad, just not worth it fighting the thorns. And I have the thorned variety of blackberries....See Morejtburton
10 years agoErnie
10 years agolsoh
10 years agoErnie
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10 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
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10 years agojtburton
10 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
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10 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
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10 years agojtburton
10 years agolsoh
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10 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
10 years agojtburton
10 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
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10 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
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10 years agoWSysock
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9 years agoJay Part Shade (Zone 10B, S21, Los Angeles)
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
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