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Changing belt on Lawn-Boy Mower

16 years ago

I would appreciate some information about changing the belt on my 1994 Gold Series Lawn-Boy mower, model 10520. 1( Is this some thing I could/should attempt myself or should I take it in to the repair shop? I have reasonable machanical abiliies. 2) Are there any little tricks I should be aware of when replacing the belt? Thanks dirtman

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Comments (5)

lawnbob
16 years ago
Use the link below and enter your model number, then select the year of your mower.
Select the "manuals" tab toward the bottom of the screen and download the "Toro/Lawn-Boy Walk Behind Power Mower Drive Systems Manual" pdf file.

It is an 88 page service manual on the various self propel transmissions and blade clutches used on Toro/LawnBoy mowers. It should have figures and step by step instructions to help you.

Good Luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lawn Boy Belt
dirtmanpro
Original Author
16 years ago
Hey, thanks lawnbob for the quick reply. I checked the toro site out but there wasn't much information on belt replacement for older mowers. I know that the engine has to be removed but am not sure all of what that might entail.. dirtman
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OK, so, I figured out - by looking at the repair manual - that I could clamp the axle, and loosen the nut on the drive pulley, that gave me the room to get the new belt around the drive pulley and provided the room between the pulley and the transmission guide. But now, with the new belt, it seems to fit fine but apparently, it is tighter than the old belt. When I start the mower, the drive engages and the mower pulls away from me - without me depressing the bar or engaging the walk-behind mode. Is there a way to release the tension a little bit? Before I put the new belt on (the old belt broke), the pulley was able to rock a little bit when engaging the bar, so that you could walk behind or push it or let it stop while running. Now it is too tight and the drive is engaged, so, basically, the mower drags me across the yard, and I need to turn it off to make a tight turn.
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I have had a lot of people asking this question. So this is for anyone needing help with it. The Belt Guide (part #7) in the diagram is held on by two of the engines mounting bolts. To remove the belt. Remove the two bolts holding it in place or loosen the engine mounting bolts enough to get the belt from around or onto the pulley. You can force the belt around the guide using a flat screw driver. But you run the risk of causing damage to the belt. You can press CTRL and + keys at the same time to increase the size of the image for a better look. Then CRTL and - to return it to normal size.
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Thanks for your help saxman1. I have the owner's manual and there is no mention on how to change the belt, only to adjust the tension. I figured the engine would have to be lifted off the deck.
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1saxman
16 years ago
The engine is set up to come up off the deck without taking any controls or anything off. The problem is, the pulley is between the engine and the muffler plate. Remove the blade, mulch fan and blade driver. Remove the belt cover. You should now be able to see the pulley on the crankshaft. You have to raise the engine up out of the muffler plate so you can get the new belt over the end of the crank. I think this requires taking off the muffler cover and removing the muffler plate bolts, then the engine-to-deck bolts. Have somebody there to hold the engine up while you slip the belt on. Then you can put it on the trans pulley. You're going to get dirty, but should have no problems doing it. Mind the exhaust gasket and make sure it's positioned right before bolting on the muffler plate. This is an excellent opportunity to check the exhaust ports and lower crank seal as well as cleaning out the muffler. Maybe it's simpler than this but that's what I think you have to do.
walt2002
16 years ago
I was looking at a 10515 the other day and I thought MAYBE there was enough room to work the belt around without having to remove the belt pulley. Sure hope so as that can be a real pain. If I have to remove the pulley (and set screw) I am going to heat it this time and see if it will cause the "lock-tite" type stuff to release so the set screw will come out.

Walt Conner
indy452
16 years ago
I run 10515's and the belt change is the same I think, If you use heat on the set screw I wrap a wet rag above it close to the seal area to keep it cool as to not melt the seal. Heat always works for me in the pulley set screw removal.

I'd say Saxman's post is accuarate. Its not that hard really.
Just watch the exhaust gasket as said so you don't damage it or you could buy a new one they run about a dollar or so.

If you need any more help just ask.
P.S great machine you have.

Neal

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